D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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By YNWA
#329582 I just recently bought a 95 ex. It's got a D16z6 w/ I/H/E. It's got 124xxx miles on it.

I changed the PCV valve because i was fairly certain it had never been done. Changed the the dizzy cap and rotor, put new NGK V-powers and NGK wires on it.

This helped obviously and it doesn't smell like it's running anywhere near as rich, which i expected.

The old plugs aside from being worn were in good shape with no obvious signs of engine distress. My oil stays at a consistent level as does my coolant, and it runs nice and cool, though it does appear there may be a slight oil film in the coolant which leaves me a bit worried.

All things considered it runs quite well for the age/mileage, but there are a few things I'm wondering.

It idles at about 1100 to 1500 rpm on start up but drops and is doing some mild hunting between 4 and 700 when warm.

There is some chattering in the valves though as i said my oil stays at a consistent safe level.

At times gears 1-3 can feel a bit sluggish once the engine is warm.

I HAVE NOT done a compression check and wasn't in a big hurry to do one when i saw the condition of the old plugs.

I'm assuming the valve lash has never been adjusted....good place to start?
By HeikDiesel
#329584 I would do valve lash. Takes me about 30 minutes on a single cam. As far as idle your car should have a smooth idle at 750rpm warm. If it isn't, you need to look for vacuum leaks or other issues from there.
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By YNWA
#329585 i do notice a slight "sucking" sound when i let my foot off the accelerator, though it isn't all the time or i don't hear it all the time. Vacuum leak?
By HeikDiesel
#329591 Pull your intake off and cover your throttle body with your hand. It should almost immediately kill the engine. If it doesn't, you have a leak somewhere.
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By YNWA
#329592 i'll give that a shot before i leave work today and post a reply if there's no leak. Thanks
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By TrailerTrash
#329593
HeikDiesel wrote:Pull your intake off and cover your throttle body with your hand. It should almost immediately kill the engine. If it doesn't, you have a leak somewhere.


i like this idea :thumb:

you could also try to bleed the air out of the cooling system it can help the idle
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By YNWA
#329600 No vacuum leak. Damn thing almost sucked my hand into the throttle body and it stalled out almost immediately. Ran pretty well on the way home except for one looooooong red light where the idle dropped below four hundred and and it stuttered pretty hard. I'm baffled by it. I guess next i'll bleed the coolant and adjust the valve lash when i get a day that isnt blowing up a gale.

Im open to any other suggestions anyone might have. Thanks for the help
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By YNWA
#329640 So just to test and get a baseline i drove most of the way to work with no heat until i got to the first really long red light of my trip.

i was idling around 750-800, turned the heat on and idle dropped to about 400. i turned the heat off and the idle DID NOT come back up.

i'm guessing this is a pretty strong sign that a coolant bleed is in fact in order?
By HeikDiesel
#329643
YNWA wrote:No vacuum leak. Damn thing almost sucked my hand into the throttle body


Try it on a supercharged b-series. I had a ring on my hand for a few days
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By suspendedHatch
#329730 Check the ignition timing. Your idle is right in the range where it could be effected by overly advanced timing.

The valve adjustment most likely wont effect the idle at all but should be done anyway.

Pull off your IACV and clean the screen with some throttle body cleaner.

Is there gunk around your throttle plate? It could cause it to stick open intermittently.

Make sure your throttle cable has some slack in it.

Can you tell if the idle adjustment screw has been tampered with? Get the engine warmed up to operating temp, jumper the ECU, and turn the screw until you get to the spec idle speed. Do this as a last resort after making sure everything else is in order.
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By YNWA
#329931
suspendedHatch wrote:Check the ignition timing. Your idle is right in the range where it could be effected by overly advanced timing.

The valve adjustment most likely wont effect the idle at all but should be done anyway.

Pull off your IACV and clean the screen with some throttle body cleaner.

Is there gunk around your throttle plate? It could cause it to stick open intermittently.

Make sure your throttle cable has some slack in it.

Can you tell if the idle adjustment screw has been tampered with? Get the engine warmed up to operating temp, jumper the ECU, and turn the screw until you get to the spec idle speed. Do this as a last resort after making sure everything else is in order.


That's a lot of really good info, thank you. I think the valve adjustment is on my list of things to do this weekend.