D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
User avatar
By LionHearted1
#318463 Howdy.

So, I was doing the timing belt on my D15b7 and something went wrong.
I messed up valves on cylinders 2-4.
It's whatever.

Tooks the head off, new valves are in, head is timed, now Im trying to figure out which timing marks are correct on the crank.

On the crank pulley, there are 3 marks together, with the middle mark being red, and then another mark that is all alone slightly over.

I know the singular mark is the TDC mark, but I read on AllData (A mechancis' program provided by my school) that the red mark is the correct one to use.

Now, I've already been through a set of valves, and I cant afford to go through another. So I need a definitive answer from someone who has legitamately done this. Yes, I know that common knowledge says that you set it to TDC, but I do not know AllData to have been wrong, and have no reason to doubt it.

So, if you've done the timing belt on a D15b7 before, and you're so sure on which timing mark to use that you'd bet your life on it, I would certainly love to hear from you.

Thanks for your time.
User avatar
By ihavesol93
#318468 take the crank pulley off, on the crank itself where the timing belt sits, there is a mark on the outside of the cog, that lines up with the arrow on the block, if i had a pic it would be easier, but on phone at the moment

also if you dont want to take off the pulley you can eye it (LESS ACCURATE) look down from alternater and look to the middle of the crank pulley (EASY TO EYE IF A DEEP SOCKET IS ON PULLEY BOLT) and line up the singular mark on the pulley with the three... aternater, singular mark, and bolt on pulley..

another is to take out the spark plug on the number one cylinder and take a really long screwdriver. (also less accurate then #1) stick the screwdriver in. rotate the crank and when the screwdriver hits its highest point, you are close, within one tooth.

the key for the crank pulley should be directly up.... 90*

that should point you in the right direction
User avatar
By d-mon
#318474
LionHearted1 wrote:Howdy.


I know the singular mark is the TDC mark, but I read on AllData (A mechancis' program provided by my school) that the red mark is the correct one to use.


lol, the red mark is 16*btdc, for ignition timing.
User avatar
By LionHearted1
#318488
lol, the red mark is 16*btdc, for ignition timing.


Exactly why I'm glad I posted here before firing it up.


also if you dont want to take off the pulley you can eye it (LESS ACCURATE) look down from alternater and look to the middle of the crank pulley (EASY TO EYE IF A DEEP SOCKET IS ON PULLEY BOLT) and line up the singular mark on the pulley with the three... aternater, singular mark, and bolt on pulley..


Could you elaborate on this a bit more? Time is a factor to me, so I really cant afford all the backtracking that goes with removing the crank pulley


Anyways, before I put the head back on and torqued it, I made sure that the one singular notch matched up with the markers on the timing cover. Im 100% sure they're accurate.
Then again, I was 100% sure on how it was the last time....

The piston was totally flush with the block as well.
User avatar
By ihavesol93
#318493 red should be on reticle. when looking downt the sight on the timing cover. and the singular mark in line with the alternater and bolt in the middle of the crank pulley
User avatar
By LionHearted1
#318499
red should be on reticle. when looking downt the sight on the timing cover. and the singular mark in line with the alternater and bolt in the middle of the crank pulley


Image


So then you're saying this is correct?

So then I want to time off of BTDC, and not TDC?
User avatar
By LionHearted1
#318519
If it's that hard, either take the time and so it right.. #1 or do the long screwdriver


It's not that it's hard, its just that I've really stressed over this whole thing, and Im trying to make sure that Im 100% before I go into it.

Plus, if the red mark is 16* BTDC, then why would I want to use an ignition timing mark for valve timing?

For everything that I've found that says to use the red marker, Ive found just as much to use the white one...


But I will pull the crank pulley off and check those marks against the ones on the sprocket. Might as well at this point
User avatar
By teal_dx
#318535 So you have the mechanical timing set, just not sure about the ignition timing? If the engine has proper mechanical timing, then your pistons will not contact valves if the ignition timing is off. it just won't run until you get the ignition timing set correctly. It has been so long since I set the timing, I'd have to look at the manual to say if it is the red or white mark... I don't have the manual here.
The first time, you may have had the mechanical timing off by more than a few teeth, causing the bent valves.
If you're unsure if you got the mechanical timing right, crank the motor slowly by hand, with the spark plugs in. If you're fighting the compression of each cyl, then you're doing it right. If it is spinning freely, you have no compression which means the mechanical timing is off.