Collecting parts for N/A no-tec build

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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Collecting parts for N/A no-tec build

By juls1488
- Sun Oct 14, 2012 4:08 am #317902 So after some heavy thinking about what I wanted to do motorwise with my car, I decided to stay D series.
Having never owned a vtec powered Honda, i'm gonna stick with what i know, no-tec :thumb:
I'm looking for a decently high comp ratio, but dont have any ridiculous dreams about crazy horsepower, just someting fun, with a little kick.
so, the build list.
I've started collecting pieces for my build already. What I have already:
-D16Y8 block (new gaskets, oil pump, water pump, and new oem bearings)
-D16A6 pistons
-D16Y7 head with a bisimoto lvl 2 camshaft.
Still to get:
-CBR 954 ITBs
-Bisimoto replica header
-Supertech springs and retainers
-Port and Polish for the head

I'm planning on running this on an OBD2a AEM Series 1 EMS, and investing in a rywire or chasebays harness. also running with an aftermarket clutch, maybe a stage 3.
and i'm also thinking about a lightened flywheel.
I'm open to any suggestions or criticisms, or anything i should look out for.
thanks folks.
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By Chambers
- Sun Oct 14, 2012 2:45 pm #317913 If you run high compression then you will need to run high octane all the time or you run the risk of pre-detonation, and if that happens then your engine will probably melt a piston or two. Does your block have provisions for a knock sensor? If it does then be sure to utilize it with your AEM ECU.

I will suggest using ARP hardware for your block and crank.

Also, plasti-gauge your crank and connecting rod bearings before you do final assembly.

Is this car a daily driver? If it is, then you might consider a lighter duty clutch, or one from a good name brand. I have a Rino-PAC kit, that has a 6 puck disk. Its a freaking PITA to drive easy, the thing just grabs, and the pedal only has about 1-1/2" of use, the rest of the throw is just dead pedal... Its annoying and not worth all the trouble.

So long as you get a good flywheel a light flywheel should help the engine rev faster, less rotational mass = quicker spool. But I wouldn't trust those cheap ebay ones. Have you ever seen a flywheel that blew apart? Not cool...

Finally, I'm just gonna give my opinion. I never would piece a engine together using parts from different engine codes such as heads and blocks... I would find components from the same engine code if I didn't just buy the whole engine as one piece and go from there. It just makes parts easier to order, and less time explaining I have this part here from this year car, and that part there from this other year car...

Good luck.
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By juls1488
- Sun Oct 14, 2012 6:58 pm #317927 The block and the head are compatible. What I'm doing is the opposite of a mini me swap. Instead of a vtec head and a non vtec block, I'm using a vtec block and a non vtec head. The main reason that I want to use the vtec block is that it has better oil passages then the non vtec block does.
Both the head and the block are obd2 and the vtec blocks had knock sensors so I will make use of that. Both the block and the head are from 1998 civic sedans.
Arp hardware should have made my list, must have slipped my mind thanks for the reminder. Plastiguaging will happen also.
The car is my daily, so I may go with a lighter clutch then. I planned on using either a fidanza or exedy flywheel. I don't trust eBay parts myself.
Thanks for the feedback!
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