D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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By lopez286
#78343 good info nice :thumb:
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By BLACKS' COUPE
#84699 im trying to do this set-up on my coupe but i am having trouble taking of the crank pulley bolt. dont you loosen to the left counterclock wise? i also have a compressor thinking this was going to help me taking this b*&% out but still having problems.. Please help...
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By teal_dx
#84738 Usually a pretty powerful impact wrench is needed to get the bolt loose. If you don't have air tools, then try a really long breaker bar. Also soak the bolt with some PB blaster.

They also have a special tool for this bolt too:
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http://www.etoolcart.com/honda-cranksha ... c4731.aspx

but that is mainly to help keep the pulley from spinning.
By egcivic95
#86253 what are the torque specs for the b7 headbolts and y8 bolts .are they the same?
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By teal_dx
#86257 I don't have my manual here... You should really spend $15 for a basic Helms or Chiltons manual, especially if you plan on modifying/maintaining your car yourself. It has all the bolt specs in it :thumb:
By rumpledskin
#86796
teal_dx wrote:Mini-me Swap

Double check everything. If you start the car and it revs up and down, you probably have a vaccum leak.




1) Any specific vaccum that might have more of an impact than the others?

I bought a hatch with this motor set up, except with the z6 head and it has a problem with reving up and down but not at idle. It kind of stumbles/stutters (gets stuck and wont pass unless reved hard) at 1.5 rpm's and when starting the car it never stays on the first time, usually takes 5-10 tries just to get get it on.

The car was running on a p06 ecu when I got the car so i thought that might have something to do with it, so I hooked it up to my friends p2t ecu and the motor ran a whole lot better, started the first time and no bogging or stuttering at 1.5 rpm so I think to myself all I have to do is get the correct ecu and I'll be fine.....so I went and got a p28 expecting it to work like th p2t but as soon as I put the p28 in, the stutter and slow start was back it wasn't as bad (barley better) but it was back :?:

2) Why does my motor run better with the p2t ecu than the p28?
By rumpledskin
#86951 I get code 6 and code 10...... The IAT only happened a couple days ago when I hooked up the plugs on the IM backwards and burned my Q31 slot in the ecu.... so could the other one caused the stutter??
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By D16z6hatch.
#96994 i have 1994 d16z6 vtec. i was wondering if i have to do the same thing to swap to a 1996 y8 vtec head. I also have the virgin p28 ecu, that dozent have to chage right...? The y8 is better is better right?... why ? :?
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By teal_dx
#97004
D16z6hatch. wrote:i have 1994 d16z6 vtec. i was wondering if i have to do the same thing to swap to a 1996 y8 vtec head. I also have the virgin p28 ecu, that dozent have to chage right...? The y8 is better is better right?... why ? :?


Just leave the D16z6 the way it is.
With a y8 head you'll raise your compression a little bit and require a higher octane gas, but you'll also need a set of new head bolts or studs which will be about $100 and an oem HG is another $40, and IM gasket is $8, and a d15b7 distributor to fit the y8 head. That's a lot of time and money for a couple or few ponies.

A stock y8 motor is only rated at 129 HP, it's pretty much equal to the z6.
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By CaliEJ2
#100015 on the oil pressure sensor wiring does it matter where i connect the ground wire and the wire that goes to D6?
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By CaliEJ2
#100235 ok i got it i just read through it too fast i guess lol i did it exactly how you did it.. and no more CEL for me :thumb: but i really cant feel it kicking in or hear it. I know its a SOHC but idk :? lol
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By jaysuper
#101186 would it make a difference if I used a stock SI flywheel rather then the one that is on the 1.5 or are they pretty much the same? Do you think it makes a difference what none vtec motor you use?