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T3 w/ internal wastegate actuator + HF Manifold = :(

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:29 am
by teal_dx
I bought a turbo off a guy with an HX in early 2006 and pieced together the rest of the kit over time.


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This is how I bought the kit, and how I assumed he had it on his car.

Finally getting around to installing (I'm busy) it and was test fitting everything yesterday.

I have a HF manifold, adaptor plate, T3 turbo (internal WG) and Spoolin Performance 2.5" DP

I tried to put the turbo on and the actuator on the back of the turbo hits the block - not even close to being able to fit.


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arrows point to the contact areas

Clocking the turbo does me no good. Even if I install the adaptor plate around the other way, I can't flip the turbo around and have the hot side on the driver side because then the 2.5" DP won't work (I love the DP, will do whatever it takes to use it)
Plus the turbo will be hitting the block then.

So it looks like my option is to find another manifold that pushes the turbo farther away from the block. Or convert to external wastegate which means buying a different manifold + wastegate + making a dump tube.

:x GD Money pit!

Seriously though, I hear of people running T3's and HF manifolds all the time on D series and never heard about this problem happening. Am I missing something?

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:54 am
by Classiccarsrule85
j/w did you try rotating the assembly most turbos hit that place with that part some people use different manifolds others rotate the assemble so the actuator is in a different location

I know its possible on the t25 not completely sure on the t3

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:21 am
by teal_dx
oh like disassemble the exhaust side and put it back together so that the actuator is on the bottom or front?
That sounds like it could work, if I can rotate it the right amount to keep the 3 bolt exhaust flange in a position to mount the DP correctly.


edit: nevermind that won't work. The manifold flange has to point straight up to the HF adaptor and the 5 bolt swingvalve/cover is always going to be pointing the same way putting the rod & actuator on the side of the block.
The exhaust side is all 1 piece.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 3:07 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
ok heres another idea what if you took some sheet metal made a bracket to use one of the whole that are threaded on the block lets say where the p/s might of went....get something to extend the actuator out of the way and everything like that. that might possibly work just gotta work out the whole customizing bit

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:59 pm
by teal_dx
you're on the right path....
someone suggested I make a bracket to move the actuator closer to the hot side and shorten the rod by a couple inches. There's not that bulge in the block a couple inches to the left.

I still have not ruled out buying a non-AC friendly cast manifold that will push things out a bit, if I can find one for cheap.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:40 pm
by RevinEK
Flip the turbo 180' on the mani? We had to do this on boosted94's setup.. so much more clearence :D

PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:50 pm
by teal_dx
tried that, 2 problems.
The whole turbo is closer to the block since the flange is more offset to one side. the back of the exhaust housing hits the block.
And I'd have to ditch my Spoolin DP which I love :(

PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:03 pm
by Death_Blooms
How bad is it hitting?

Ran in to this when I ran a TD05H on my HF mani. Ended up buying a smaller internal gate off a 86-93 Supra Turbo (7MGTE with the CT-26 turbo). It has a double bend in the acutator arm that allowed me to move to a diff mounting hole.

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I've also seen the o2 bung on the manifold used as a external gate port if you don't mind going that route

PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:02 pm
by blind monkey
sorry not on topic, but isn't that a VX manifold?

PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:17 pm
by Sentry
Death_Blooms wrote:I've also seen the o2 bung on the manifold used as a external gate port if you don't mind going that route

I've seen that too. Very cool.

PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:30 pm
by RevinEK
i was just checkin out the parts room and i realised zacks using a blank d series flange as a spacer.. ever thought of that?

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:03 am
by teal_dx
yeah but I thought that could put a strain on the studs. I'm going to shorten or extend the actuator arm to make it fit :thumb:
Also got a deal on a cast rev hard manifold so I'm going to make a WG block off plate and see how everything fits with that :thumb:

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:23 am
by ej2rey
Can you come up on 2 thick exhaust mani gaskets or one thick and one regular which ever works and slap them on?

That should push the hx mani out some.
Like that you don't have to worry bout customizing the wastegate actuator.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:27 am
by RevinEK
lol thata work too, cant wait to c it :D