Turbo and Supercharger discussion
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By 92dxeg
#343078 ok guys i am building a boosted gsr i would like some were between 350-450 for hp i am going to have forged pistons and rods stock sleeves... but my question is what Precision entry lvl turbo is best i dont what something that is going to take forever too spool but here are my options...

5831E MFS (58mm inducer) - 585HP
5431E MFS (54mm inducer) - 500HP
5454E MFS (54mm inducer) - 495HP
5976E MFS (59mm inducer) - 620HP

also i was going to get a good manifold i will thinking between the ram horn and the top mount bolt from black works racing i am going to have a 4000 budget on the turbo kit so i think i am going to get the top mount.. my goal is too have a fun street car and a decent car for the track.. also there will be other variables in time like cams 3 inch exhaust lmk what u guys think
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By Uknterror
#343082 There is alot to consider other than just manifold selection on turbo choice. Compression ratio, any head work, intake manifold, everything works hand in hand, buying the biggest isnt always the best choice.

Stock gsr can make/handle 350whp (depending on sea level) on stock internals and last for years, if your goal is truly only 450 max try not to go overkill on things, a very simple setup can net you 450whp no problems.

Although I'm running precision turbo they are not my top pick for various reasons, I came across a deal on a new one I couldnt pass up which the only reason why I'm running one, but there are other brands for a very good price with the same power ratings.

Next is the list of turbo options you have listed and their ratings, sure they say they are rated for that power but on how much psi and on what displacement. I'm pretty sure you don't want to run crazy high psi like 30+ to achieve those goals (which you say you're not but I'm just saying).

Now with all that said you can pick ANY of the ones you listed and be fine with your goal, just don't expect to make the power or even that close to power they are rated at.

The selection of your turbo manifold is very important, I did a little digging on my selection, I was up the air about ramhorn vs top mount. After consulting a few teams and tuner I found that the top mount is only useful for two things and that is for all out fully built track purpose setup and install/removal of turbo, thats it. The boost response is very minor between that and a ramhorn, with that being said you can also consider a log style manifold if you choose a quality brand, people are making 400+ on log manifolds and the two things you sacrifice is looks and having to up the boost a bit. There are various ramhorns that will serve your goal with ease.

The money you save by staying with a ramhorn can go towards other things like the intercooler, piping, intake manifold, tune, tires, etc
User avatar
By JUICE
#343102 ^that.

If you don't ever plan on making more than 450 or revving 9k+ go with a ramhorn. BlueRidge Motorsports makes a nice twisted ramhorn if you're after something a little different. They're in the same price range / quality of the BWR mani's.
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By JUICE
#343104 Never hurts to give the guys at pureturbos.com a shout. They specialize in rebuilding turbos but also keep an inventory of rebuilt ones ready to go. All come with a 1 year warranty and they have a better balancing machine than most manufacturers do. Definitely worth checking out!

http://www.pureturbos.com/store/performance-turbochargers/remanufactured-rebuilt.html
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By 92dxeg
#343108 well my plans are to get cams and shit if i have money left over maybe like a pro1 and for my intake manifold i was going to get a s2 pro series or if my friend still has is ultra series i will get that.. i was just putting the turbo hp next to them becuse they were my options of turbos too get i dont want any thing crazy that take 2 gears to spool lol i am doing a fairly basic piston rod set up not to sure what cp ratio to run you guys think 9.1, 9.5.1, 10. 1, 10.5.1 also i will have stock sleeves prob stock gsr vavles i will have aftermarket springs and retainers also i will be on s300v2 lmk what u guys think
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By Uknterror
#343109 You don't need cams for a 400hp mark, they help and they help a good bit but again everything has to work together. Instead of pro1's Id get Tuner 2's as they are drop in and no need to degree them. In my build I'm using stock b17 cams and on a similar build has seen over 500whp.

Compression ratio is totally up to you (I'm 10.2:1 on my build), lower the compression the more boost needs to be pushed and depending on the turbo might have to up it alot for the turbo to stay within its effective range. That can be discussed later when you decide on the turbo you want.

Springs choice will be dependent on which cam choice you go with, careful on the retainer choice, stay away from the traditional Ti retainers as they are very harsh for a daily or even semi daily car, either oem or upgraded steel ones are perfect.
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By 92dxeg
#343114 well this car is not going to be my daily i have a rsx type s to do that but i would like a fun toy to drive around the street and a car i can take to the track and shut a few ppl up.. The car is going to be tuned at xenocron so ik for the tuning part of it she will be in good hands and it will last.. also i have never built a turbo car this is going to be my first go at it.. But my idea is too have 81mm sleeves or 81.5mm with eather 9.1 or 10.1 cp ratio weisco pistons and eagle rodds . crank is going to be cleaned up and polished should i get a better crank girdle from golden eagle ? also i would like to get golden eagle head studs. I am not to sure on how too build the head yet becuse in the future i would prob like to go hard with it and just race all the time but in the mean time i just want a quality fun street car 350 to 450 hp.. now some ppl have told me just to leave the gsr cams in and said it would be fine . my idea with the head was just going to be skunk2 cams with sporting mods aftermarket intake manifold and a 3inch exhaust . also for a fuel system i am going to get injector dymanics 1000cc and a 255 walbro fuel pump lmk what u guys think
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By Uknterror
#343130 That's cool, I still wouldn't recommend the Ti retainers, the only benefit they give is being lighter than steel and stronger but the excessive wear they cause is not worth it even on a car that isnt driven much, plus they increase valvetrain noise and can mask problems with their loudness.

Never go wrong with xenocron :thumb:

You keep saying sleeves as in you want to sleeve the block, that is a very good investment but not something to really worry about even with a b20 block. Sleeves would be justified (to me) for a again a full out drag car or extremely high hp (680+) and constant revvs of over 9k. I would make the bore to 81.5mm tho

An upgraded gridle again is not needed, in order to install a non matched gridle, more machine work has to be done, alignbore and new measurements of the bearings. Not worth it, the oem one is fine unless its missing a huge chunk or prone to many spun bearings I wouldn't consider an upgrade.

The golden eagle headstuds are made by arp, they are the same only thing is that they are dogpoint which is good and provide a little more clamping force towards the bottom, a good choice but your not hurting yourself if you decide to stick with the normal arp's anyway.

As I stated before I'm using b17 (also gsr) cams and in similar setups have seen over 500hp. You can get a set of skunk 2's/blox again I suggest tuner 2's or pro 1's as they are not that aggressive and are drop in, no need to degree the cams. 1k cc ID is a very good choice and the walbro 255 is just fine.

You say you want to go all out and race the car but want something fun, again I suggest not going overkill as you would be spending way more money needed to get everything to work right vs picking the best parts for the current power goal. If I were in your situation I would build another motor on the side once this is complete to a full out setup.
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By 92dxeg
#343154 OK so if i go with skunk2 pro 1 what do i upgrade then ? just the valve springs, cam gears since you said don't get ti retainers..
also the only reason i say sleeves a bunch of times is because ppl by me say b series sleeves don do well after 400 hp

and i am really thinking about getting a bwr ram horn and a 5831 for my turbo choice
User avatar
By Uknterror
#343157 I suggest the supertech 85lbs springs with inline pro snap fit steel retainers. Oem retainers are steel as well, aftermarket ones are a bit tougher, thats what I'm running and many people are as well. Very good solid setup. Don't forget the small things to replace while the head is apart as well like the lma's

B series sleeves are very strong, I wouldn't trust them past 650 but plenty of people have made that power with no issues. 400 is very reliable on stock sleeves, the weakest walls are the ones in a b20, even still 400hp on a stock sleeve b20 is fine. If you still insist on sleeving keep in mind you have another option and thats CSS. CSS stands for Cylinder Support System, its a method that stabilizes the walls but keeps the stock sleeves some builds have already seen multiple 800hp passes and some race teams are starting to adopt them rather sleeves for a cheaper alternative.

The ramhorn and turbo choice is fine. Good luck bud :thumb:
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By rootbeer_eg
#343164 this is a great thread
lots of good information :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot:
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By 92dxeg
#343166 well i am going to replace the lma, valve seals and all the small stuff that could cause i huge annoying prob because i am the type of guy that replaces all that small stuff while i am in there. for my exhaust i was going to do a 3 inch with a vibrant muffler and i was thinking of a e cut out any1 every try them ?
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By Uknterror
#343167 Good just making sure you don't skip/forget the small stuff like that.

Vibrant is a trusted and one of the most proven and used mufflers on the market, very durable, great sound in any size and style.

I would highly suggest against the 3-cutout's for various reasons. They are very frail and any car that "backfire's" damages the servos and mechanics of any brand cut out, the further they are put back the less chance they have of damage but at that point might as well have a normal exhaust setup.

I personally know 3 people in my area with e-cutouts, one is on a bone stock tsx and within 2 years has had to rebuild the unit 8 times. My other two friends used them for other non car related purposes but when on the car either got jammed or again fell apart.
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By 92dxeg
#345047 whats going on guys i just bought the rods for my turbo build i bought Manley turbo tuff rods .. my question is should i buy arp rod bolts for them ? they cam with the stock Manley ones i was jw what ones are better ? next i am taking the block to the machine shop in a few weeks then i will get the pistons prolly wisco i dont no what i should have for a cp ratio tho what do u guys think
By Axix23
#346835 for 350hp-400hp range, i would go with a garrett gt30r .82ar or .62 ar for faster spooling. Its a great turbo for low boost and also for the street. I run it daily around 11-12 psi making around 420whp and turn it up to 18-19 psi on 100 octane and make 501.1whp... Its a very responsive turbo and good for the streets. You can even look at the gt28r turbo as well..

It all depends on what you will be using the car for as well.

For the fuel pump, i went with a pgi/aermotive 340lp intank fuel pump.. They are the same size as the walboro and of course out flows the walboro 255. My walboro 255 went out on me so I decided to run a different pump.

And vibrant stuff is the bomb, i am running their flat black mufflers and ultra quiet resonators.