Civic EG

I got a job (Subway) So all my money is going towards my civic. I'm deciding to go turbo, an have a bit of questions for you guys. Here's my list of stuff i plan on getting an i wanna know if its a good product an if there's anything ill need. The turbo i got was from a friend, it comes with a rebuild kit, idk what brand it is.

eagle rods,
vitara pistons
arp head studs
bearings
Is there anything else i should be looking for, 4 this build? Like different cam an valve springs?
the turbo im getting is a t28 t3t4, does anybody know what my whp would be like?

ill appreciate any advice you got. thanx

how much power are you looking to make? What kind of shape is your current motor in, how many miles?

Also what motor do you have?

Alright well its a z6, the motor is at 180. and needs new crank seals an random tune up stuff. I plan on getting a y8 mani. Im looking for 250 an at the most 300.

lol im useing a Z6 block but Y7 head so if you are interested in my Z6 arp headstuds to cutdown cost also have a Y8 intake....

you should also look into getting
-injectors, fuel pump stuff like that

-see about getting a tune this is really where your money goes to make it reliable etc....

-possibly cam gear to help with tuning timing, and possibly some other things i would say if your wanting to make power the three elements you will want to improve on besides saftey in the block and internals....would be air flow(port and polish) fuel management and ignition/timing possibly upgrade your ignition system to a higher output spark....and stuff like that depending i mean just if you want to go there.,...

How much for the studs an mani?

OEM honda studs do better on a sohc than ARPs.

A t28 is a really small turbo. i'd say you're looking at more like 190-200 ish hp, and 220+ ftlbs of torque. Those baby turbos tend to make more torque than HP.

Classiccarsrule85 wrote:you should also look into getting
-injectors, fuel pump stuff like that

-see about getting a tune this is really where your money goes to make it reliable etc....

x2

Get FJ R Spec rods. They are made to run vitara pistons ... they're a little longer and they give you a slightly higher (more normal) CR about 8.4:1 instead of 7.5:1 ... that way you won't lose as much on the bottom end. Many people use these rods and run 300+ whp set ups.

Only 425 + shipping for rods and vitaras on his website. Good combo for a budget build.

That's what I'll be going with when I finalize my turbo build.[/url]

flyinryan122 wrote:OEM honda studs do better on a sohc than ARPs.

A t28 is a really small turbo. i'd say you're looking at more like 190-200 ish hp, and 220+ ftlbs of torque. Those baby turbos tend to make more torque than HP.

Honda doesn't use studs they use bolts, just sayin'. And they do stretch and cause head gasket failure. At the power level he's looking at, ARP head studs would be worth it for piece of mind, and to prevent head lift.

It depends on which t28 ... 250 is totally doable on a t28. T25s make somewhere in the 200 - 220 range and a t28 is bigger. I have a 13c (small MHI turbo from a volvo) which maxes out it's efficiency around 300 whp (it's about the size of a t25). It all depends on what turbo you get and how hard you want to push it.

Oem head bolts are what i was talking about! and like a said, oem is better than arp for SOHC. i have many friends making 450-550 on oem bolts. they had lifting problems with arps.

The 92-95 head bolts are stretch bolts and cannot be re-used.

I bought ARP's because they were only $10 more than a set of head bolts from the dealer and they CAN be re-used, as long as they are never over torqued.
Once they are over torqued, they lose their stretch and don't do their job as well.

That's why the assembly lube and torquing process is so crucial. Also re-torquing after heat cycling is a must.

There's a lot of room for error with ARP head studs, I think that is the cause for them failing.

teal_dx wrote:That's why the assembly lube and torquing process is so crucial. Also re-torquing after heat cycling is a must.

There's a lot of room for error with ARP head studs, I think that is the cause for them failing.

yea the re-torque thing sucks on a b series.... but i have had no problems with arp studs, i have used them on all most every build i have done... i hate stock headbolts, but thats just my preference...

well i am not trying to go over 300. Are eagle rods good enough for that range of power? Do the FJ R rods come with the pistons? Im not trying to spend that much on just rods either. I will be using arp's. Ill try to get what exactly what turbo it is later. so what would be a cheap good injectors for this build?

teal_dx wrote:The 92-95 head bolts are stretch bolts and cannot be re-used.

I bought ARP's because they were only $10 more than a set of head bolts from the dealer and they CAN be re-used, as long as they are never over torqued.
Once they are over torqued, they lose their stretch and don't do their job as well.

That's why the assembly lube and torquing process is so crucial. Also re-torquing after heat cycling is a must.

There's a lot of room for error with ARP head studs, I think that is the cause for them failing.

Did you get a deal on the arp's then? I go to honda almost weekeley for a set of head bolts for customer cars, i pay 30 bucks for all of them, then tax.


TO THE OP= Eagle are more than enough. They will handle what you want I have them in my D-series and i'm trying to break 600 hp this year. Another thing we do with d builds, is machine a stock Ls rod and use those for 300hp(give or take) set ups. It's cheap to do.

They were about $9 a piece when I went to buy them for my d15b7, that was in 2003 though. been rocking the same ARP's since. The 96-00 Head bolts were about $4 each. My local dealer must have been trying to rape me ...