Civic EG

So took my b18b1 block over to the machine shop yesturday and i was telling him i was gunna use arp harwear he was saying somthing about if i use arp studs for the main caps, than i would have to spend like 150$ more on some other machining needing to be done.I didnt really under stand maybe some one could help me out on that.(it was somthing about were the studs go in it acualy streches were the bearing lays into??) So i guess my question is, is it super important to do arp studs on your main bearing caps if im only planning on running 15psi? any info would be sweet so i can figure out if im gunna drop the extra money or not.

don't measure your build by psi, measure by WHP 15 psi can mean one thing or another depending on the turbo setup.
I'd ask him all the details to be sure.
ARP head studs and rod bolts are a must, but I used OEM main bearing cap bolts.

Ya im looking to get around 300-320 on a t3/t4 set up. Nothing to crazy. do you have a main girtle teal? just wodering if maybe that would help?

i would for sure use ARP headstuds but for the girdle/main cap bolts, OEM should suffice at ~300whp.

i used arp headstuds, arp rod bolts and OEM girlde... you can OEM headbolts on a B series if they are brand new and not stretched but i wouldn't risk it

Ok thanks guys for the info! i think ima go arp head studs and rod bolts and oem on the others. Anyone know if the stock intake manni is any good or would it be well worth the money for like a victor x??

Heres my total set up so far:
Block:
eagle h beams
wiesco forged pistons stock boar
stock crank
stock main studs
arp rod bolts
arp head studs
stock sleevs
eagle block gaurd

head:
new valve seals
oem valves
crower duel springs/retainers
crower stage 2 turbo cams
buddy club cam gears

Turbo setup:
t3/t4 50 trim
cast manni
all the other turbo goodies needed to compleat the kit

Any tips or suggestion would be sweet considering im a noob to turbe motors.

well i think you have a SOLID ass setup especially if you are only shooting for ~350whp out of a B series motor. the intake manifold will be just fine for that power goal, as for the turbo setup, grab some ~650cc injectors and a decent FMIC, at least 2.25" IC piping and try for a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back if you can...if not, 2.5" SHOULD do the job....

your going to have a beast of a setup, especially with those cams, i'm assuming those are high revving power makers?

any other questions, let me know....make a build thread and when did you plan on starting this up?

First off thanks man i really cant wait! I already got the block into the machine shop for a hot tank,hone and deck the top so i sould get it back this week! as for the main stuff im gunna get around income tax time.I the goal for the finished product will be summer of 2010. I will def. make a build thread along the way! I was thinking maybe around 9000 red line not to crazy Thats kinda why i was wondering about the cams if the crower stage 2 turbos would be a little much? Cuz herd pepps making good power off the itr or ctr cam aswell but i figured for the price maybe just pay a little mor for the crowers??

biggnutz123 wrote:First off thanks man i really cant wait! I already got the block into the machine shop for a hot tank,hone and deck the top so i sould get it back this week! as for the main stuff im gunna get around income tax time.I the goal for the finished product will be summer of 2010. I will def. make a build thread along the way! I was thinking maybe around 9000 red line not to crazy Thats kinda why i was wondering about the cams if the crower stage 2 turbos would be a little much? Cuz herd pepps making good power off the itr or ctr cam aswell but i figured for the price maybe just pay a little mor for the crowers??

The Crower 2s are a good set of cams. They will idle pretty good with a nice lope to them and you'll have epic power all the way to redline.

Are you going to have your rotating assembly balanced?

Are you planning on LS/VTEC?

Get the VictorX manifold. You will not regret it. Huge power potential out of that thing.

If you can, get a 65-68mm TB (somewhere in there). Should be plenty for your setup. The VictorX manifold is bore match-able up to 70mm (maybe more, I'm not sure).

Plus size your pistons to .25mm OS, IMO. Rehoning doesn't take much off, but it's awfully close to .25mm. 81mm just won't procure the proper piston/cylinder clearance.

Are you planning on getting a main girdle? If so, you need the GSR windage pan, oil pickup tube, and oil pan. Unfortunately there's no way around that...

Well the machine shop called me today and told me i gota have the cylenders boared anyway due to the ridges at the top of the cylender walls. I talked to a local tuner shop and they said just boare it .20 over that will make 81.5mm, works for me its gotta be done anyway! Probly not gunna go ls/vtec dont get me wrong vtec's cool and all but i think alot of people forget you can still make awsome power even if it doesent say vtec on the valve cover. Anyhoo as for balancing i was told that it really wasent super important unless i was building an all out drag car so probly not gunna go that route. Still a little up in the air on the main girtle thing havent fully decided on that one yet. Thanks for the great info guys really helps me make my final decition on witch way to go!

If you plan on ever revving it out to thte 9k you said earlier, you will need to get it balanced. Anything more than 7k (stock redline for the B18B1), and you ought to get it balanced.

If you're staying LS, you can't use ITR or CTR cams. I know it's obvious, but I interpreted one of your posts as you wanted to maybe use those cams.

The main girdle is a good idea, but it's not 100% necessary. I would use one if I were you. Especially since you want roughly 300whp.

Tru that maybe ill just keep the stock redline And i didnt know that about the ctr and itr cams thanks for the tip lol. Guess its crower ftw! Only thing on the main girtle is my buddy has built lsvtec stock sleeves no girtle and runs 17psi on a gt30 putting down about 320whp so thats the only reason im undecided.

CTR and ITR are VTEC engines. LS is not.

I'm just saying that I would use the girdle if it was my engine. I would also sleeve the block. Boosted LS engines don't last long unless they're sleeved and braced in every which way possible. I've seen LS engines break the stock sleeves on 10psi Not just crack but actually fracture the cylinder sleeve.

That One Dude wrote:CTR and ITR are VTEC engines. LS is not.

I'm just saying that I would use the girdle if it was my engine. I would also sleeve the block. Boosted LS engines don't last long unless they're sleeved and braced in every which way possible. I've seen LS engines break the stock sleeves on 10psi Not just crack but actually fracture the cylinder sleeve.

what is the difference between the b1 and the c1 with regards to the main girdle? i have the z6 and it has a girdle correct?

B18B1 does not have a main girdle. The B18C1 does. I'm not sure on the B18C5 as I've never torn appart the bottom end on one.

B18B1 and B18A1 are identical in the block design. The B1 head flows slightly better and has higher lift, longer duration cams than the A1.

I'm not sure if the Z6 has a main girdle. Next time you have to drop your oil pan, take the windage tray off and look at your main caps. It'll be obvious if you do have a girdle.

funny you mention that, here is the pic i took when i changed out my oil drain... what do you think?



there was a "girdle" of 5 main caps (at least i thought) and that's what i called it

from what i understand, the c5 and c1 are essentially the same in the
bottom, most of the change is in the head.... (could be wrong tho)


that's a good idea tho, any bottom end strength you can pick up is best