Page 4 of 4

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:34 am
by teal_dx
That's how it is from the factory, with a check valve in the line. That's so the intake will suck vacuum from the crankcase at high rpm. With a turbo spooling, you no longer have vacuum but pressure instead so the way honda designed the vacuum system to work no longer matters. So now you need to let the crank case and valve cover vent by means of a vented catch can. So remove that line and put a cap on the nipple on the intake - it's no longer needed since you're running a new line to the catch can.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 3:49 am
by kc12305
Can you do the sane with a non vented cab mines basic no beather on ut,

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 4:07 am
by teal_dx
I'd get one with a breather :thumb:

PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:39 pm
by kc12305
Yah. :D what woyld say might be a good vac source then when a turbo build

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:01 pm
by jred
good write up learned allot here , any chance there's a write up like this for B series?

PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:36 pm
by teal_dx
jred wrote:good write up learned allot here , any chance there's a write up like this for B series?

It's really not any different :thumb: You'll have a different manifold and probably a little larger turbo.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 8:50 pm
by eg4stevie
Can this be done on the d15b dual carb?? Pretty much same setup??

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:40 pm
by v-tec
and does the d16z6 still driving with turbo on?? can I do the same thing on my d16y8

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 3:01 am
by teal_dx
eg4stevie wrote:Can this be done on the d15b dual carb?? Pretty much same setup??


I'm not sure about the carb setup, since we never had them in the states on 5th gen civics. The fuel management will be the big difference. Also there may be different sensors too.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 3:02 am
by teal_dx
v-tec wrote:and does the d16z6 still driving with turbo on?? can I do the same thing on my d16y8


Yes, mostly everything in this setup will be the same for the D16y8. If it's in an OBD2 car, you would need an obd1 conversion harness to run a chipped OBD1 ecu.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 8:39 pm
by CivicJaz
Sorted!

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:04 pm
by mitchkeller87
This is a great write up. This is my first build of a NA motor that I will be doing. I have built my wrx and made 452whp and 469ftq but never taken on a project like this. Any other tips for drilling into the oil pan? That is the only thing I am nervous about

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:20 pm
by teal_dx
Drilling was easy. Just take it off and be sure that you clean it very well to get all of the metal shavings out. :thumb: Measure twice, drill once :)

PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2013 1:04 am
by Axix23
Mcswens wrote:id like to throw in that teflon tape is a must with the oil lines, i tried other anerobic sealers and they just blow out. also a good idea is to weld all your intercooler piping together less chance of blowing hose connectors! I can definitely say that this is one of my personal favorites. :thumb: :thumb:
je.

U def don't want to use Teflon bc when the oil heats up, it will start melting and trash will get into the oil lines. HondAbond ftw. Most flare fittings don't even require seAlant.