Post YOUR Hatchback here
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By TrailerTrash
#359778 aw yeah man keep up the good work :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

sucks about the leg i broke my left leg 2 times when i was little. wasnt fun. but at least it gave you plenty of time to think about what u want to do next :lol:
User avatar
By Gram0401
#359791 Just a little update…
So the canards seem to be working well, there putting down enough force to brake zip-ties
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I picked up some top1motors tow hooks
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Rear
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Also cut the rear bumper and added mesh to match the front grill. I was going after the look of the garage works EK9. Still have to trim the lip around the exhaust.
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I got rid of the eBay subframe brace, replaced it with an ASR subframe brace with matching sway bar and endlinks.
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Here are a few picture of my car and my friends hatch from panda junction fall edition
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User avatar
By Gram0401
#360731 So here is a little update from the weekend. I changed out all of the rubber seals on both doors for ones that are in better shape and not ripped. I removed the rear seat brackets, speaker brackets and rear washer hose.
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I also picked a dnd performance interior quick release. I'm not to sure if I'm going to keep it or not I don't like how far the turn signal lever is from the wheel with the aluminum hub. Image
Also added a window banner just to block the sun (don't mind the tape it's not there anymore)
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I also talk to @becauseracecar on ig about the rivets that he added to his car around the door opening.
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I've always been a fan of the rivets after see cars like his or the garage works eg so I went for it, here is the passenger side Image
There stainless steel rivets about 1inch a part from each other skipping over the factory spot welds I still have to take off the doors and dash to finish the last 30 or so on the passenger side
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Here is the start of the driver side. Takes some time since I'm doing it by hand and not with an air rivet gun.
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By Gram0401
#360995 it's been about three weeks since I've posted, so here is a little update.

Got my RFab horn delete,quality and fitment is spot on. I will be replacing the screws next.Image

Did some more rivets around a the rear strut towers, about 54 for both sides.
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Keeping with making the car stiffer I started on a rear brace. Which I will be what I'm working on in between other projects. I really didn't like the 1st one I made that much because the welds sucked, now that I'm better at welding I hope this one will turn out better. (More updates in the future for this)
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I also changed out my front lca's to integra one that where refinished with new energy bushings.
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But of course things never go as planned and the weld on the bolt inside the subframe broke. So I had to cut the subframe open and get a new bolt
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But it all worked out in the end (still have to weld up the bolt and subframe)
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I also added and integra gsr front sway bar with energy bushings and new end links, along with an integra front subframe brace.
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When taking the car apart I also broke an extended wheel stud that I had to replace and since it was out I got a new wheel bearing pressed in.
So over the past few months I've been saving up parts to swap the engine. So this happened this weekend
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Here is a run down of what I'm working with right now b20 high compression with a b16 trans with downstar hardware action clutch and 12lbs fly wheel, gsr linkage with bwr aluminum bushings and China tuned shifter (k-tuned version 1 shifter) new axles, starter, alternator, 4-1 header with heat wrap, after market mounts and an Ls Ecu. Still need to get an integra throttle cable and 2 bolts for the rear t-bracket.

Right now the car starts but it does idle high I think I may have a vacuum leak or their is air still trapped in the coolant. I really only have time on the weekend to mess with the car so I hope to get that sorted out this coming weekend.
Last edited by Gram0401 on Fri Jan 27, 2017 2:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By Civic_HatchSI
#361038 Very cool build, I actually like the rivets its unique.
User avatar
By Gram0401
#361043
Civic_HatchSI wrote:Very cool build, I actually like the rivets its unique.


Thank you Civic_HatchSI… I plan on doing some more rivets over the winter but over here in Maryland it gets pretty cold.

Engine update
The motor is all together and running good with no cel's. The only problem I had was the high idle (3000rpm) but it held there steady and was not surging. I changed the iacv that didn't change anything, after that i changed out the throttle body for an h22 unit and that seemed to fix the problem right away.

Here is a picture of the bay, I still have some things to tidy up but this is how it sits.
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User avatar
By EconoBox
#361045 If changing the throttle fixed the high idle the small part on the bottom of the throttle called the 'Fast Idle Valve' had probably failed. Typically you will see two holes inside the throttle (one to the rear and one on the bottom) if you cover the one on the rear with your finger and the idle smooths its the IACV that has failed, the one on the bottom would be the fast idle.

I like the rivet ideas its kind of like the spot welds used for race cars. I'd be curious about the weight difference and strength it has vs spot welds.

My only concern is are you using some kind of epoxy primer or etch primer where you are drilling through the body? If you don't treat that bare metal it can lead to some pretty nasty rust really quickly.
User avatar
By Gram0401
#361065
EconoBox wrote:If changing the throttle fixed the high idle the small part on the bottom of the throttle called the 'Fast Idle Valve' had probably failed. Typically you will see two holes inside the throttle (one to the rear and one on the bottom) if you cover the one on the rear with your finger and the idle smooths its the IACV that has failed, the one on the bottom would be the fast idle.

I like the rivet ideas its kind of like the spot welds used for race cars. I'd be curious about the weight difference and strength it has vs spot welds.

My only concern is are you using some kind of epoxy primer or etch primer where you are drilling through the body? If you don't treat that bare metal it can lead to some pretty nasty rust really quickly.


EconoBox I did put my finger over each one of the holes in the throttle body and it made no difference. I even opened up the fast idle valve and ajusted it but still no difference. I just think the throttle body was beat.

For the rivets around the rear shock tower I used under coating in the wheel wells and I plan on getting the inside of the car painted. The primer on the inside is just to cover up the bear metal from removing the seam sealer
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By Gram0401
#361103 Just a little update… I started to tuck the headlight harness, fuse box, and battery. I have not finished yet and there is still a bunch of work to do but with mostly 30° days in Maryland you only can do so much…

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Everything is done on the passenger side, I just need to add the wire clamps.
I'll probably end up doing the engine harness somewhere down the line.

Here is the dash harness. I removed the radio and abs wiring (to cluster) just need to add some wire loom and it's ready to go back in…

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If I get some time this weekend I'll finish the fuse box and start on the battery.
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By EconoBox
#361104 Good work!

Really going to town on cutting the weight... removing unused harness parts!

I've aways taken out that dash harness and re done it on every EG I've owned. I found that, at least in my case, the 'mysterious' rattle they always have in the dash is the cluster/dash harness as the zip ties sag from being 20+ years old. Some fresh electrical tape, foam tape where it passes next to plastic, and fresh zip ties work wonders.
User avatar
By Gram0401
#361126 Last update for 2016

Finally got around to securing the harness on the passenger side.
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Also installed the positive bulkhead to get power to and from the starter and alternator.
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Now that I'm on the inside of the car, the speaker wires have been removed from the passenger door and will be removed from the harness, along with the ac wiring that I pulled from the bay into the cabin. I also took the steering column support, center console bracket, glove box bracket and the blend door from the blower motor assembly and sand blasted the surface rust off and painted them black.
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For Chrismas my buddy got me this tachometer.
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As soon as he gave it to me I grabbed a tape measure because I already had plans for it....

Power off
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Power on. The tach is wired directly to the circuit board so when you want to remove it, it comes out just like the stock cluster would.
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That's all I'll probably have time to do before the new year since I'll be going out of town for the holiday.....
User avatar
By TrailerTrash
#361137 dude that tach install is slick :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: but if i was you i would paint the trim black just an idea not bashing it at all

happy holidays man keep up the good work! :cheers:
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By Gram0401
#361175 Since the new year has started I haven't had time to work on the car like I would like to due to the weather and a small vacation to Toronto.
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But since I have the whole hvac system torn out the car and sitting in my basement I decided to rebuild it. I replaced all the seals and all the foam on all of the doors in the blower motor and heater core assembly. I also decided to get rid of the vents near the driver and passenger doors also the one on top of the dash. I will still have the defrost vents, the middle two vents near the hazard button and the floor vent. I had one of my friends professionally clean the heater core. I also tested and lubricated all of the actuator so they slide smoothly.
This is how all the doors in the heating system look now.
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Here you can see where I made block off plate for the driver and passenger vents
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The center hole is for the vent that's on top of the dash I sealed that shut using the oem door.
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That's it for now...... next up is to finish tucking the driving side headlight harness.
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By Gram0401
#361209 It's been extremely rainy in Maryland this pass week so I haven't had the opportunity to work on the car as much as I work like to but I do have a small update. I was looking threw the thenaritadogfight.com site at one of my favorite cars the garage works eg6 (picture below for those not familiar with the car)
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and noticed its pedal assembly. I though to myself I could mimic these, plus I could do it inside since I do not have a garage.
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So I removed the pedal assembly, brought them in the house and began to disassemble them.
I started with the clutch pedal, drilling out the holes, sand blasting, paint and reassembled.
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But I wanted to take it a step further and also started to do the same process to the brake pedal. I must have gotten Swiss cheese fever because I also did the mounting bracket. But here is the finished product.
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I know someone will say the the pedals are not as strong as before but after I drilled the holes and before the assembly was put back together, I had a 300 pound friend stand on them acrossed a 2x4 and the pedal arms did not flex at all.

The rain let up for a bit and allowed me enough time to finish the driver side headlight tuck.
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As the rain continued during the week I came acrossed a 1/4" thick 4"x16" piece of stainless steel plate. Guess it was time to make a custom skid plate for the exhaust manifold. I took it to work and had some holes punched in to it to cut down on weight. I couldn't get it to bend at all so I had to cut some grooves into it in order for it to bend. It's super heavy duty and I think if I did make contact with the ground, the ground would be more damaged. Here is the finished product.
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I hope to get some more done this weekend weather permitting.