Post YOUR Hatchback here
By Danny_P
#329761 I had a rattle that got worse and worse... i couldn't take it anymore. i decided to find out what it was. I rectified it, but didn't find it if you know what i mean.

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I basically attacked everything possible with foam and double sided tape.
Vacuumed up all the crap aswell... bet that reduced the cas weight by about 2KG!!! javascript:emoticon(':woot:')

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I got a door card for the passenger side as mine was damaged, chunks out of it from the previous owner.

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Just needs a clean and it will be like new!

I started a little weight reduction while i had the interior out, unnecessary items.
Center seat belt
Speaker brackets rear pair

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And next i think ill start on the JDM tailgate and get it looking good. (Fibreglass for light weight!)

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Oh and this came for the rear roll bar!

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Last edited by Danny_P on Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By Danny_P
#332257 To get it done sooner rather than later ive booked a week off work next month so it wont be long now!

Ive also been thinking of the weight thing, the weight of a honda alloy or aluminium block with FRM sleeves (Which were designed for light weight and superior cooling) would be lighter than any Ford Renault ect from the same time period or even from more recently... fact is honda's engines were far advanced compared to the competition, not only with variable valve timing (Since 1988) not like toyota (for the past 10 years and VW are only just getting the hang of it over the Past 5 years at a push) But with their design in engines as a whole.

Thats why their hasnt been a single indy car engine failure since honda became the sole supplier of motors in 2006.

So with all this in mind, and the fact the engine is light anyway compared to the competition of that time and now i recon ill be fine...

Ill update the thread with some more images as i have some new LCA's and i forgot to add the dual core radiator.
Last edited by Danny_P on Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By Danny_P
#333135 So way back when i got it, it had a coolant leak from the radiator so i got an uprated one knowing id at least be B16 - ing or boosting the D15.

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It was about the time i did the port polishing and port enlarging.

Back to present times...
So i needed something to mount the DC2 rear roll bar to so i bought myself some shiny things!

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Holiday pic of what ill be competing against...

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The GF's older bros car... yeah its safe to say im a lil scared. i recon ill catch him on braking and cornering though. i am about 400Kg lighter! haha

Ill see you all in... hmmm 5-6 days when the big block gose in ;)

H soon!
By Danny_P
#335758 So the cars on the road, the pull in vtec is sick! did a little bit of weight reduction to counter the H22 as mush as possible but it is a daily driven car so full interior remains.

Heres some pics of the progress.

Befor with intake removed
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Exhaust and rad off/out
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Sub frames being changed and DC2 2.98 turns lock to lock Steering rack fitted with DC2 lower brace.
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Undersealed!
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Wow prelude loom! and alot of it! This is what we had to merge into the EG4 loom...
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Pop!
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Look at all that sound deadening!
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Got rid of all that sound deadening along with the bulkhead deadening.

Where i cut to get the cables through...

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Later i put a thick ruber bung over the sharp edges and filled in the rest with silicone! air tight!

Gear stick inside to attach.
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Pop!

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loadsa speedo shizz!
2 ecus... not for long...
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This suprized me and my old man! the ELD fitted right in the EG4 fuse box out of the lude box! i know the SI / SiR Or ESI/VTI for us UK guys ELD boxes worked but i didnt know the item was identical...

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Diagrams and wires = boring...

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Drive shafts on!
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Air intake, or some of it.. 80mm pipe to a HKS super flow filter!
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Clearance is mental!
To radiator
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I had to go for a slim fan and mounted it on the bumper side...

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From the Intake manifold to my brake bias valve...

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Headlight to alternator belt.

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the 6pk0923 belt has been replaced with a 0900 belt.

and i love this

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Haha

Ill have some more soon but heres a teaser, Rear DC2 roll bar still to fit, front has been fitted with the subframe, lower brace and steering rack.

and i have these!

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Ill post soon
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By Civic_HatchSI
#336636 Wow lots of work going on for this little hatch! Good luck with your build, keep up the good work :thumb:
By Danny_P
#336710 Thanks for the post Civic_HatchSI and for the good feedback, I'll let you into a secret.

My choice on springs was necessary to raise the car as the originals were sagging so much they caused axle bind on the yonaka axles... Something their customer service team were helpful with ill add. But as it was only on the right hand side (UK and JDM drivers side) it's been made too loby and I feel it's something they could change easily and it would benefit alot of people...

But the fronts are on and the axle bind is completely gone! Given it a very good test...

I'll post soon when I've made progress on the rear!

Another hint as to whats after that is a 5th gear crunch and a clutch slip when it's cold...
User avatar
By Punksz6
#336786 Nice work so far. A lot of work has been put in. :thumb:
User avatar
By DeanPant
#337087 Epic work :thumb:

what spring rates did you go for with your BC coilovers?
By Danny_P
#337313 Thanks Punksz6 and sorry for the late reply!

DeanPant i went for 10kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear. (Might change the rear for a higher rating if the weight doesn't come near 680 front / 340 rear - thats what im hoping for hence the spring rate upfront being double that of the rear...

Handles well, and sits nice and low... but higher than the original sagging springs. got the rears on now with the ASR brace and LCA's. just the rear roll bar to install then its tweeks...

Apart from the Big problem... (That is still their i found out one night.)

Im getting axle bind on the right hand side from hard left turns... DONT buy yonaka mounts and axles! Luckily (I say with a sigh of disappointment,) the gear box has the notoriours 5th grind as i said earlyer so i went out and got a UK BB8 gearbox.

Heres the ratios to compare,

UK BB8 - M2F5 – 3.307 / 1.950 / 1.360 / 1.071 / 0.870 FD 4.266
JDM BB4 - M2A4 – 3.307 / 1.950 / 1.360 / 1.034 / 0.787 FD 4.266

More acceleration in 4th for the 1/4 mile and more in 5th to see off any EP3 or DC5 to 150mph - ish... box is in my garage now but im guna overhaul it, make sure its right!

And im guna shorten the axle when the box comes out and lay off the fast bends for a little while... well left ones at least.

But then! i got looking into LSD's, might go mfactory or Kazz undecided... going to go with a Synchrotech full rebuild kit with carbon lined synchros too! torco MTF and maybe a 4.64 final drive... maybe, if i do i might have to refurb the JDM box insted. if i didnt the top speed of the uk box would be closer to 130mph than 150mph haha!

But then again i could always raise the rev limiter to 8700rpm or somthing like that when i do some engine work in the future...

Ill get some more pics on the work done so far on the forum soon!
By Danny_P
#344105 So, All the coils are on, ive just received my clutch kit (Excedy) as its slipping and the next purchase is the UKDM Accord type r U2Q7 gearbox and maybe a F1 Racing Fly.

(BTW - i bought the prelude box and its set in my garage but with the rain... I NEED A LSD!)

Ratios are as follows.

3.285 - 2.090 - 1.481 - 1.071 - 0.870 - 4.266 LSD

The box has a OEM LSD and should be more cost effective when comparing to MFactory and KAZZ Helical Torsen style diffs. When this is on going, ill be sorting the drive shaft bind. Ill get that to the engineers and have 25mm taken off.

Got myself a new downpipe to replace the currently blowing one for £54.

Got a set of EM1 Wheels (Got 5 of these and 3 S*** tires for £78 ) - going 195/50R15 W Potenza RE002 for £44/Tyre (UK version of the RE11.. but their not as sticky ive heard..) ill try em.. if not then AD08R will be the evolution..

I still haven't refurbed the other 6 spoke oem 15's.

I've got myself a UKDM P13 for £30 to get rid of the speed limiter, Ill need a Spoon chip in my JDM P13 then for the 8.5k limiter, speed limiter removal and lower VTEC engagement in the near future.

Who can do this for me in the UK? or can someone supply it and if so how hard is it to DIY?

Once all the above is fitted ill give it a service, oil, filter, plugs and give the HKS a vacuum.

Fiberglass boot lid is still needing a good refurb and fitment with the JDM tail light conversion to help with the weight. possibly the next item after the box.

Did i mention ive deleted the SRS, Power steering and Arial stuff? i don't know..

I've also got a UKDM Accord type r gear selector (Plastic - lighter) and better to hide under the original console, but a little longer throws compared to the DIY job on the prelude shifter.

I am still to weigh the car after the H22A install but im sure it will be a good weight. The spare, tools and everything in the boot is out and removed.

I've also got to do the front discs and pads and a Fluid change for the track day my dads got me in may! so all the above will need to be done by then. Ill try to remember to take images.

Im sure their's more but i cant remember....

Anyway i know what i am doing next after these items...

Weight
Ill be replacing the DC2 front lower subframe brace with a aluminium one,
The rear wiper and motor on the screen wash bottle will be deleted fully as its sicced to work.
Ill possibly be going for a smaller screen wash bottle 1.8L single motor and coupling this with the jazz mist washer jets (Fit if your in the US/Japan)
Battery size will be reduced (Saving 6kg)
Fiberglass bonnet, Lexan rear 3 windows, Bucket Seats on super-low rails (Preferably Bride as they are very light and comfortable)
Plastic JDM headlights - If i can find them...
Brake shields will be removed...

Chassis
Brembo Discs,
Ferodo DS2500 pads,
DC2/DC5/EK9 Brake master cylinder - 1" Nissin,
Tegiwa Master cylinder stopper,
Braided lines,
OBX short shifter,
S2k Clutch master cylinder,
Ingals camber kit maybe?
I would like to fit Saxo / 106 Electric Power steering pump on a switch with a steering quickener 1.5:1 ratio to get a 2 turn lock to lock rack... hmmm

Engine (I Want 230-240 WHP) - Balance shaft disengage already done.
OEM Manifold & Downpipe modified to a 2.5" collector matched to a De-Cat and Cat back @ 2.5"
80mm CAI, HKS Superflow, 70mm Throttle body, (Coolant bypass) Gutted JDM Intake Mani and a Thermal intake gasket.
Port match & Polish - Mild
Skunk 2 Tuner Stage 2 cams (Not planing on changing the valve train.. its been done many times before...)
This coupled with the spoon Chipped JDM P13 - Not ideal i know but again this has been run so many times and has been proven as the safest chip about mapping wise...

Interior
JDM center console & Arm rest inc 1din cupholders,
Tailored mat set,
Momo 320mm wheel and quick release,

Exterior
Bumpers pair, SiR lip and side repeaters to go with the tailgate and tail lights.
Import size from reg
Silver calipers, disc centers and rear silencer (Keep em looking new)
Refurb some wheels and get some new OEM wheel nuts!

Then hopefully a respray.. and ill be happy... for a while...

More to come and hopefully some images sooner rather than later...

See you all soon...
By Danny_P
#344366 Just a quick post with some images of the update as requested!

Still to fit the rear roll bar BTW but you can see the most up to date progress and my next post will be of the new items collected and possibly fitted.

Spring rates Rear-Front
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Old vs New
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Fitted
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These quickly got under-sealed... I don't like bling.. function is my thing!

Stance pic
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Not too much or too little arch gap.. I like corners!

Both cars are the same age here... Toyota Vs Honda (Honda towing the Toyota to the scrap yard!)
(Pic was taken just before rear got coils. judging by the height) I know i brought the front down when i got all four coilovers on.

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Nothing more to report for now, until i get the additional items photo-ed up and put of the car! Should be soon!
By Danny_P
#344810
teal_dx wrote:Nice, How is the ride quality with the new suspension installed?


Hi Teal! its good, i don't think its too harsh, the shocks are very linear in their bound and rebound and can be set pretty soft when needed.. My Girl friend would disagree saying she needs a sports bra on while i pass over the speed bumps that we have plenty of.. But when your on the main roads with no speed bumps they are more than comfortable for daily driving.

I choose them because of their positive results in time attack in the uk and because they weren't too low for the bumps.. They had a fancy graph or two showing the linear bound to rebound and from driving on them you can really tell they are a quality product!

I really can't say anything bad about them.. I've driven cars with both lowering springs and coilovers, some which were beyond hard and bounced around to those that were just to lower the car and these are in another league to everything I've felt before.