Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Sun Nov 17, 2013 2:45 pm #338959 Few new tools later finally got the head bolts out. 1/2in drive is your friend for that. popped right off.

Next on the plate, remove oil pan and pull rods/pistons out of the top of block. hopefully once they are removed I wont have to do anything to the walls other then just measure and make sure they are in spec and hone.

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Sun Nov 17, 2013 9:01 pm #338967 So I had a few minutes before I headed to the bar to watch the redskins not show up against the eagles. I removed the oil pan, pickup, and windage. hopefully in the next day or two I can pull the rods/pistons.

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:06 pm #339075 just a small update. pulled the rod/pistons. time to measure the cyclender walls and check the head for warping. hopefully they are still within spec and I can start ordering parts.

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Sat Dec 21, 2013 12:27 pm #340373 So finally made my first big purchase towards completing this bottom end build for my turbo. Went through real street performance, their customer service is excellent. I may be missing a gasket i believe go onto the back end of the sump. i have to double check. other then that pick up my baffled oil pan already fitted for oil return line and start putting this beast back together

K542M81AP Wiseco Pistons Integ-Wiseco Pistons Acura Integra LS GSR B18C1 B18A1 B18B1 81mm 9.5-9.8:1

CRS5290H3D Eagle HBeam Rods Ho-Eagle H-Beam Rods Honda Civic Si B16A1 B16A2 5.290

PRO2002T Cometic StreetPro Top-Cometic StreetPro Top End Gasket Kit B16A2 B16A3 B18C5 HONDA Civic Si 94-01

T227RB Gates Racing Timing Bel-Gates Racing Timing Belt Honda Civic Si B16A2 B16A3 B17A1

4B1946H ACL Race Rod Bearings -ACL Race Rod Bearings STD B18A1 B18B1 B16A2 B20B Integra LS Acura

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Tue Dec 31, 2013 5:35 pm #340794 parts finally came in.


I ordered my moroso baffled oil pan and should be here Saturday. couple more gaskets and i will be ready to put the bottom in back together

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:23 pm #340980 So finally got around to assembling the pistons. pretty straight forward process.







#1 assembled minus pistons rings


Checking the ring gap. for future reference pay attention to the way the rings slide out the package. They come out in order starting with the top ring then 2nd ring etc. I didn't notice this the first time and freaked. had to scour the internet for hints on which was which. the directions suck




So then i ran into a problem. started cylinder #2 and the 2nd ring was good. Put the top ring in and i cant fit .50mm feeler between so now i have to read up on grinding the ring a little

How ever not all is lost, i got my baffled oil pan today from JHP USA.

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:10 pm #341585 Lil downtown time from the build. had to wait on a part show up. So i attempted my first hone. I didnt really know what to expect maybe i thought it would be more then what it turned out to be. 6 passes forward and reverse with oil and a piece of cardboard to protect the crank





My part finally came. 8 bucks for shipping and this is what showed up. I am in the wrong business




had to break out the big gun to get the pulley off.



Started installing the pistons this weekend. First and foremost the ring compressor with the allen wrench is horrible. the top ring slides out everytime so you have to stop and tighten down then push it in more. Make sure you rotate the crank so it is at its lowest point. makes life easy



now the shitty part. does anybody know a trick to getting the caps off after the initial torque to measure with plasigauge??????/ i was able to get the 1st off and now #4 wont budge

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:16 pm #341586 mabey a plastic pry tool.

Hatch http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=27660
Sedan(gone) http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7462

- Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:56 pm #341589

mabey a plastic pry tool.

sad part is i cant remember how i got the first one off.. damn rum and cokes

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Mon Jan 20, 2014 9:54 pm #341591

mabey a plastic pry tool.

sad part is i cant remember how i got the first one off.. damn rum and cokes

haha

Hatch http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=27660
Sedan(gone) http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7462

- Tue Jan 21, 2014 2:02 am #341615 after all that i finally finished the what seemed to take months to do in one day. My clearance was between .015 and .018. That shit was a bitch but i ended up using a fine scaled flat head to pry the caps off. All the pistons are installed and torqued to spec


this oil pan is already set up for return line from the turbo

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Tue Jan 21, 2014 5:52 pm #341647 so was it easy doing the pistons from the bottom? Im thinking of doing the same when I do mine. just not sure if i wanna pull the whole engine out agin lol. But you car is dope. oil pan is nice. Is it also as deep as stock or no? looks shallow compared to stock.

Hatch http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=27660
Sedan(gone) http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=7462

- Tue Jan 21, 2014 9:05 pm #341664

so was it easy doing the pistons from the bottom? Im thinking of doing the same when I do mine. just not sure if i wanna pull the whole engine out agin lol. But you car is dope. oil pan is nice. Is it also as deep as stock or no? looks shallow compared to stock.

Thanks man, almost got rid of it but decided to finish what i wanted to do. Sole based on the work i did, the hardest part was doing the bearing specs on the connecting rods. i did all the work by myself so yea alot of getting under the car then back up and so on. Other then that if i had all the parts before i started i could of easily did it in a weekend.

It looks pretty similar to the stock in size. i will have to look compare the 2 pans. it was only 150 bucks for the new one.

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:14 pm #343001 Well first off, some how i managed to lose my intake nuts. so what should of been done two weeks ago is now waiting on the new parts to come in. on top of that i move in 2 weeks.

New ARP headbolts and gasket by street pro




Scrubbing the head where the valves are





Pic of my daily before an oil change and the hatch on blocks since dec.

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!

- Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:04 pm #343209 SO finally got around to getting the head torqued down in 3 steps. i believe i went 40-60-80 with ARP head studs


INstalling the timing belt has been a major pain. Removed the motor mount ran the belt through installed motor mount. that was easy with my ghetto motor lift


now the problem. I have the cams TDC or least very close to it


The exhaust cam sits funny. see pic below. the pistons are at TDC judging by crank mark. and its very tight. I am assuming i need to loosen the slack a little. That the other problem i cant get the bolt on the tensor to come lose. Any suggetions on how to do with motor still in car??????

I don't play games, I quit first grade because of recess!!!