Post YOUR Hatchback here
By EG6_rugby
#340980 So finally got around to assembling the pistons. pretty straight forward process.

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#1 assembled minus pistons rings
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Checking the ring gap. for future reference pay attention to the way the rings slide out the package. They come out in order starting with the top ring then 2nd ring etc. I didn't notice this the first time and freaked. had to scour the internet for hints on which was which. the directions suck

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So then i ran into a problem. started cylinder #2 and the 2nd ring was good. Put the top ring in and i cant fit .50mm feeler between so now i have to read up on grinding the ring a little :x

How ever not all is lost, i got my baffled oil pan today from JHP USA.
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By EG6_rugby
#341585 Lil downtown time from the build. had to wait on a part show up. So i attempted my first hone. I didnt really know what to expect maybe i thought it would be more then what it turned out to be. 6 passes forward and reverse with oil and a piece of cardboard to protect the crank
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My part finally came. 8 bucks for shipping and this is what showed up. I am in the wrong business
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had to break out the big gun to get the pulley off.
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Started installing the pistons this weekend. First and foremost the ring compressor with the allen wrench is horrible. the top ring slides out everytime so you have to stop and tighten down then push it in more. Make sure you rotate the crank so it is at its lowest point. makes life easy
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now the shitty part. does anybody know a trick to getting the caps off after the initial torque to measure with plasigauge??????/ i was able to get the 1st off and now #4 wont budge
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By EG6_rugby
#341589
egsedanguy wrote:mabey a plastic pry tool. :?


sad part is i cant remember how i got the first one off.. damn rum and cokes :thumb:
By EG6_rugby
#341615 after all that i finally finished the what seemed to take months to do in one day. My clearance was between .015 and .018. That shit was a bitch but i ended up using a fine scaled flat head to pry the caps off. All the pistons are installed and torqued to spec
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this oil pan is already set up for return line from the turbo
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By egsedanguy
#341647 so was it easy doing the pistons from the bottom? Im thinking of doing the same when I do mine. just not sure if i wanna pull the whole engine out agin lol. But you car is dope. oil pan is nice. Is it also as deep as stock or no? looks shallow compared to stock.
By EG6_rugby
#341664
egsedanguy wrote:so was it easy doing the pistons from the bottom? Im thinking of doing the same when I do mine. just not sure if i wanna pull the whole engine out agin lol. But you car is dope. oil pan is nice. Is it also as deep as stock or no? looks shallow compared to stock.


Thanks man, almost got rid of it but decided to finish what i wanted to do. Sole based on the work i did, the hardest part was doing the bearing specs on the connecting rods. i did all the work by myself so yea alot of getting under the car then back up and so on. Other then that if i had all the parts before i started i could of easily did it in a weekend.

It looks pretty similar to the stock in size. i will have to look compare the 2 pans. it was only 150 bucks for the new one.
By EG6_rugby
#343001 Well first off, some how i managed to lose my intake nuts. so what should of been done two weeks ago is now waiting on the new parts to come in. on top of that i move in 2 weeks. :thumbdown:

New ARP headbolts and gasket by street pro
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Scrubbing the head where the valves are
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Pic of my daily before an oil change and the hatch on blocks since dec.
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By EG6_rugby
#343209 SO finally got around to getting the head torqued down in 3 steps. i believe i went 40-60-80 with ARP head studs
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INstalling the timing belt has been a major pain. Removed the motor mount ran the belt through installed motor mount. that was easy with my ghetto motor lift
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now the problem. I have the cams TDC or least very close to it
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The exhaust cam sits funny. see pic below. the pistons are at TDC judging by crank mark. and its very tight. I am assuming i need to loosen the slack a little. That the other problem i cant get the bolt on the tensor to come lose. Any suggetions on how to do with motor still in car??????
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By EG6_rugby
#346476 haven't updated this in a while and haven't worked on the car in a while. i left off with moving to my house and the timing belt tensor bolt not wanting to come loose. well today was my lucky day. what took forever finally decided to break free. That bolt is beat.
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I also removed my snapped bolt from the cam rail. all in all was a good day. just order the new bolts and hopefully be done this coming weekend.

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By EG6_rugby
#346971 finally got the entire motor back together. with the exception of a few things like fuel line and distributor which is in just not hooked up and the harness. the headers need to be modified, the turbo oil pan is wider than the stock one so i have to modify the header to fit .

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i did pick up this beauty. 2014 ridge line. slick lil truck.

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By EG6_rugby
#347091 So tried to crank her over last week and got nothing. i was defeated so i closed the garage up. flash forward to today and for some reason Eric the car guy video popped up on you tube. long story short it was a savior for now.

she cranked over after i tighten the battery connections and lubed her up a few times with spark plugs and fuel connected. sounds rough but she started so a small victory for the day.

Any ideas to get her where she needs to be will be greatly appreciated. i do not have the exhaust hooked up just headers.
By EG6_rugby
#347096
teal_dx wrote:Nice documenting your build with all the pics :thumb:
When it was running in the garage, did it give you a check engine light?


didn't pay attention to that. it had a CEL prior to the build due to what i'm assuming was the o2 sensor on headers being cut or just not hooked up

Timing was half a tooth off with the intake cam being lower than the exhaust cam. there was no pops grinding no noise to make me worry about internals. could just be timing or a plug in the wrong position