Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:11 pm #312382 So, last week i bought a new friend to SuperBlack::

EG4 LSi



Lets have a careful look from the best spots









From the previous owners:



Ford wipers:


Webasto electric sunroof



Hi-Fi:



Small hit?:





Bondo anyone?





Never undersealed?







Because of the door moldings





So here starts the fixing:



I did a radical move to fix the rear sides because my right side door is broken from the front:










Stay tuned for future updates

- Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:03 pm #312392

http://tinyurl.com/Civic-EG-Presidential-Election

Check out my build thread!!!!

- Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:27 pm #312412

- Wed Aug 01, 2012 2:34 pm #312479 Here is some new pics:

Fresh body panel piece from the door:





Random shots:

- Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:54 pm #312512 Not a bad find/ A bit of work will get it back into form

Carlos
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- Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:48 am #316320 Little update what has been done:

Outside pic:



Here is the panel from the door fitted to the quarters.



I dont know what animals have been transported with this car, but the amount of hair was a little shock:









I removed the previous owners "Hi-Fi" installations:







And if I have to replace something, I have to do it so its better than stock. So I started to refurbish those 262mm calipers that I already had(16CL14VN)

Start:



Middle way:







Then there was a day when I had a good look for the suspension parts. Regarding the previous MOT-check, there was some problem with the brakes. Thats why i thought why not to replace the suspension arms with my other EG:s old parts. I had new rear upper arms, trailing arms with new ES polybushings, tie arms, almost new rear drums etc etc.

I know that there is differences in Sedan and HB rear drums, but I think that its not a big deal. I might do the rear discs swap someday...

Up sedan, lower HB:



RTA-looks like it was smeard with shit in this pic, but in live it doesnt look like brown colored:





Sorry for jumping, but it´s easier to translate straight from my Finnish project topic :s

I grinded the old arch completely of and then i dropped the fuel pipe and its plastic quarter. When about 2 kilos of wet mud and other shit camed from there I already knew what to expect...

And there was this





So, to the fix...

Align marks:



Then I grinded the fuel lid blaablaablaa almost completely of:



Other pics about the fixs:











I just randomly cut´d the old rusty piece of....



And then dropped it to the sheet of metal and take a good look at it and thought that what the.... I just grinded the batman logo of



Fittings



Almost done:



Final pieces. Old vs new:

- Mon Sep 24, 2012 8:59 am #316322 I wanted the wheel arch to look as much OEM as it could after the fix, so...






Then I bought some Energy Suspension parts to the front end:





Here is a sneak peak about the calipers:



I removed the rust completely using CRC rust remover. Both calipers got new pistons and seals. And red high temp caliper paint.

Then i did some bushing stuff.



And here is one reason why failed MOT:



And then other reason: I removed the old front brakes and noticed some strange thing:



Some random pics:









I needed to remove the fuel lid thingy because of the rust.



First I thought that i could remove the rust using the fosforacid:





But there was so much rust that I needed to do new base:















Cleaned the plastic piece and gave it a VHT Vinyl Dye Satin Black:



Then some drilling welding. I left the center hole like that, it isn´t showing from there so no big deal.





Sorry, I lied, here is the finished piece



Here is a pic from the rust prevention base paint and a new Dinitrol Body Glue:

- Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:55 am #316332 Lots of work, but looks like you are doing a good job. Keep it up man

Flickr

- Mon Sep 24, 2012 6:36 pm #316357 X2 props on the work.

[Apexracing]

- Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:31 pm #316433 Great start

- Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:03 pm #318560 Thanks for the nice replys!

Haven´t done much lately. Life has been such a circus so... But here is some little things that i´ve taken care of.

Because i want all the repairs to look like OEM one, i need to do insane amount of work with all little parts. I could´ve just weld a flat metal sheet to the inner fenders front part, but no.... I used the old rust free piece to do the new inner fender piece, because it had same shapes as the piece that needed to be replaced.



Fuel cap with new adhesive. Old glue that had absorbed the rust in left:




Here its glued and curing. The zinc is there just for the temporary rust protection. I will sand and bondo the fuel thingy flat, so there is no welding marks visible



Also changed bushings to PU ones:



Then i thought that i could grind of the inner fender part, so it would be easier to repair it and i could also see inside the rocker.



I was suprised how good the rocker panel was from the inside. Only surface rust. I will use metal brush to remove the original paint and surface rust and then use some annitrol to remove the rust to get a shiny metal. I will take pics once done.





The little parts...











I had to install my SuperBlacks old lowering set to this one



Then things just exploded and i realized that i was already started to do wire tuck.





Will continue some day

- Wed Oct 24, 2012 7:32 pm #318577 loving the detail your putting into this man, i love seeing cars brought back to life MAD props brother!

94 EX coupe (sold 1/2016)
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=27951

93 DX coupe build 2.0 (R.I.P.)
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?p=331386#331386

- Sat Oct 27, 2012 1:24 am #318706 Looks great and glad she was saved from the scrap yard

It belongs in a museum!

- Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:07 pm #322784 Just for heads up, the annitrol trick did the job very nicely. OFC it wont work if you have heavy rust (because annitrol eats the rust away and if you have heavy rust it weakens the structure and even eats its way through the metal) In this situation this was the best trick cause i only had semi-light surface rust.

So how i did it:

I used metal brush to broke the original paint, so annitrol had something to bite. Then i brushed as much rust away as possible and blocked the holes. Then i just put one bottle of Annitrol inside to a rocker and wait wait and wait.

Here is some pics from the way...







It still looks bad in these pictures, cause my plug dropped and annitrol leaked on the floor. But after another bottle and one day of waiting I got a shiny, fully rust free metal I painted it with zinc and will waxoil it when i get my welding things done. I´m pissed cause i wasnt able to get pictures about the rust free rockers, cause my Galaxy S2 gives me "Camera Failed" notification when starting camera Now the rocker has Zinc on it, so its too late to take pics. But once i do the job to another side of the car, i will take pics to prove that this trick works 100%

And here is fully cleaned and massed front wheel (arch? i somehow cant find the right word to it )

- Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:44 pm #322785 Now I need some help from the fellow EG HB owners!

So, i was measuring the sides and i noticed that the rear left corner is "turning" inside whenyou follow it from the front to the back. I tested it comparing the side to the door. I cant confirm is this right, because i dont have door on another side of the car.

My explanations suck because of the bad english, so i took some pics to show what i mean:

When the door is closed, i took a straight piece of metal and put it beside the doors lower part to see if the straight side line continues from the door to the rear corner. .

If you look this pic, you see that the leveler is attached to the door, but when you follow the leveler to the rear there is a gap between the rear corner and the leveler.





I want to know if the straight sideline continues on the whole side! Can someone confirm that? I dont want any confirms from the cars that has been repaired from that particular part. I just want to weld my pieces perfectly to the factory look.

I´ve already done some other work. I fabricated some pieces, because i wasnt too happy about using the original puzzle metal sheets. It was pita to get the pieces right, but i think i got the job done pretty well.











Here is the front left, waiting for 262mm hubs and VTi lower arms:



And here is some arch test fitting :




I also did new threads to my EG8:s old ASR pieces, that were destroyed by of the previous owner. I used the helicoil repair kit. Awesome tools. Absolutely must have! I´m testing the Skunk2 rep LCA:s and the ASR rep brace, mainly because they are dirt cheap. I´m not self destructive, so im not using the ASR copy backplates. Thats why i repaired the genuine ASR pieces.



Then i found some new parts in my carage. Leftovers from my SuperBlack.



Next i switched back to rear quarter.





Then i cut some pieces out that i dont need.




...And testfitted:





To get back to the original problem that i described on top of this post, please check the lower part line and also the side molding line. I mean that does rear corners side molding line continue straight when compared to doors side molding, or does the rear corner side molding start to turn inside from the back? Very hard to explain. Here is a bad example pictures:







Here is some pics taken from these fake Skunk2 LCA:s:









I´m gonna change the bushings to the genuine Skunk2. I know that they are crap too, but i think they will still be better than these copies.