N/A build discussion
User avatar
By Mr. Pink
#131590 i will be at 12.5:1 give or take.

I have an auto, ARP does not make the bolts for the flexplate. and before you say something about 5 speed swaping, my car is an auto for health reasons(arthritis and a replaced knee)

I am also not worried about the Main's as i wont be making over 200whp. and i will be having Kinsler fuel injection make the ITB's for me(eventually). but for know the Blox manifold and S2 tb.
User avatar
By teal_dx
#131605 are there better parts available for the auto, such as a higher performance torque converter? Not saying you'll need it, but I would look into the potential of the auto tranny and how much power they can take.
User avatar
By Greasedmonkey
#131621 I remember the used to be a converter for them. but that was years ago. Dont know who made it or if they still do.
User avatar
By Mr. Pink
#131667 a few companies make them, and yes i already have contacted them about building me a trans that can handle 600whp+ (not that i will ever need to have that much). But its almost $4k to build it, so ya that is absolutely last on my list(if ever). The high stall tq converter is about $350.

The two companies that deal with Import auto transes are:

Level10
&
IPT

All stock Auto trans can not handle more than 250whp. I tested that with my 93 DA integra that had a b16 swap and was boosted. i dynoed 284 and the run after that we exploded the valve body. 2" hole where one of the ball valves should have been. I have since realized that 14lbs of boost is not good for an auto. thus why i am building my first High comp motor.
User avatar
By d-mon
#131693 you do know that PM7's (stock d15b7 pistons) will give you a higher compression ratio than the p29's, right?
PM3's = 12.40:1
P29's = 11.85:1
another fun P29 fact is the valve releifs are too small for Z6 valves, you will have to enlarge them, thus further decreasing your compression.
since you did not post your HG choice, i'll assume the d16z6 HG
you can check my #s here:
http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html
User avatar
By Greasedmonkey
#131696 I dont see how your are getting more CR out of the PM3s. They always come up less for me. With his set up Im getting 12.76:1 CR. PM3 give it a 12.42:1

really high compression for a D motor non the less. There is no real need to go that high on a street motor. 11.5:1 is really the highest I would go now. You can make the power on less CR and its easier for the tuner to do so.
User avatar
By Mr. Pink
#131715 the civic is not my only car. i have my truck as well, but i understand what your saying, i may not go to 12.5:1 i may only go 12:1, or 11.5:1
User avatar
By d-mon
#131896
Greasedmonkey wrote:I dont see how your are getting more CR out of the PM3s. They always come up less for me. With his set up Im getting 12.76:1 CR. PM3 give it a 12.42:1

really high compression for a D motor non the less. There is no real need to go that high on a street motor. 11.5:1 is really the highest I would go now. You can make the power on less CR and its easier for the tuner to do so.

i posted a link to the compression calculator i used.
pm3's are the tallest honda d-series pistons
compression height for pm3 =30.7mm
compression height for p29 = 29.0mm
pm3s are too tall too put in a d16, they stick out of the block with 137mm rods. only fit in d15 with 134mm rod.
you are correct that 12.xx:1 is very high compression for a street driven d-series, and will sacrifice drivability. (poor idle, no power below ~4k, etc)
User avatar
By Greasedmonkey
#131921 I used the same calc you linked, and I always use that one.

D15 bottom end with z6 head didnt show the PM3 to have a higher CR. Compression hieght is more, but it still has a -1.5cc dish. P29s have a 7.2 cc dome, with a comp hieght not that far off.

In fact, I just checked again and with the D15 block, crank and rods the PM3 seems to stick out of the deck. By .059 inches. That wont work at all.
User avatar
By Mr. Pink
#131925 GreasedMonkey,

thats exactly why i am sticking with the P29's because they dont stick out of the deck and i wont have to worry about a valve hitting them like i would with the PM3's
User avatar
By d-mon
#131965
Greasedmonkey wrote:I used the same calc you linked, and I always use that one.

D15 bottom end with z6 head didnt show the PM3 to have a higher CR. Compression hieght is more, but it still has a -1.5cc dish. P29s have a 7.2 cc dome, with a comp hieght not that far off.

In fact, I just checked again and with the D15 block, crank and rods the PM3 seems to stick out of the deck. By .059 inches. That wont work at all.

yeah, when i got home i tried the compression again. this time it was:
p29 12.46:1
pm3 12.06:1

but there is still the valve relief issue.
once you mill the head this is a serious consideration.
especially with a performance cam.
User avatar
By Mr. Pink
#132035 the valve relief is an issue regardless of piston choice, unless i go with a p28, but i would get nowhere near the numbers that i want.
User avatar
By BLaCkSiLo
#142794
Mr. Pink wrote:i will be at 12.5:1 give or take.

I have an auto, ARP does not make the bolts for the flexplate. and before you say something about 5 speed swaping, my car is an auto for health reasons(arthritis and a replaced knee)

I am also not worried about the Main's as i wont be making over 200whp. and i will be having Kinsler fuel injection make the ITB's for me(eventually). but for know the Blox manifold and S2 tb.


can you tune an auto well? i was under the impression that you couldn't tune/chip/socket an auto ecu in obd1 honda?

or do i have bad info? .... you said you boosted 14psi on an auto integra?