Civic EG

So of course when i was trying to install my lower control arms one of the bolts snapped, would anyone know the proper specifications of the bolts for them

Here you go, order per what you need.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM

I bet it was the rear LCA he was talking about... those bolts break all the time when removing them.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM

I'm guessing you need #29 in the illustration? Been there before

BTW, they were $13 ea. at a dealership

ya those rear LCA bolts are a pain if they get rusted/seized in.

glad i ordered mines way before taking them off. Going to setup my suspension kit hopefully today

teal_dx wrote:I bet it was the rear LCA he was talking about... those bolts break all the time when removing them.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/aut ... +LOWER+ARM

I'm guessing you need #29 in the illustration? Been there before

BTW, they were $13 ea. at a dealership

eh im not going to the dealership this also happened with my buddy theres some place that has grade 8 steel or something bolts that are way cheaper than dealership but yeah my car sits on a jackstand in my garage atm, i was rather peeved then found out what happened to my buddy and is newly purchased ef xDDDDD Also are 29s the same as the ones that connect it to the strut cause thats the one that broke

dont use grade 8 >>>> fail .... they will break over time

OEM is grade 10 stay with it

hatchie wrote:dont use grade 8 >>>> fail .... they will break over time

OEM is grade 10 stay with it

Oh ok i didnt know what was oem this place has that too im just too lazy to even fix it seeing as its cold and gets dark a hour later after i get from work fffffffffffff itll never get done which is why im gunna buy a new car YAY

word

OEM is metric grade 10.9, which is equivalent to SAE grade 8.

You'd do well to get your bolts at the dealer. They're made for exactly one purpose: that pivot point. While aftermarket, or non-OEM bolts will fit, they may not fit to the tolerances Honda had in mind. If the bolt is too small for the hole, it'll work harden the bolt. If the bolt gets too hard, it'll snap.

Work hardening is essentially cold forging. It's bad when you don't want it. It can also lead to cracks in softer metals.

Careful.

Junkyard!

Whenever I get a Honda or Acura, I blast these out with an impact and coat them with anti-seize. I go out of my way to buy cars in the southwest where the desert climate means that these bolts haven't seized up yet.

suspendedHatch wrote:Junkyard!

Whenever I get a Honda or Acura, I blast these out with an impact and coat them with anti-seize. I go out of my way to buy cars in the southwest where the desert climate means that these bolts haven't seized up yet.

yeah i was gunna grease the new ones up and shit because of this, anyways i only got the control arm off today with the strut FML im cutting the old control arm off it sadly then ill get a bolt tommorw and get the car going again i started it and it had a nice smoke show (cold hasnt ran in a week) xD

You can always blast the bolt (both side) with PB blaster. I took mines off over the weekend and it was a breeze.

i just snapped my rear lca today at work i guess my impact gun was to powerful and boom it snapped right in the middle. i thought it wasnt all the way in, then i tried to pull it out and came out half of the bolt...my homeboy who work at a dealership said its not even 5bucks. cause i asked him if he could hook me up with a discount on it and he said its not even 5bucks...but ill check the junkyard and just pocket it...lol

A lot of times the bolt will freeze to the metal sleeve part of the bushing. When you turn the bolt, it will rip the rubber bushing to shit and there's no way to get it out with regular tools.