Tuner cars aren't a waste of money, there an investment
- Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:01 pm
#321334
Sorry to hear it was a head gasket :/
- Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:01 pm
#329039
And to teal, will this be #15 or is it #17
I have changed the WP, T-stat, Thermo switch today, and bleed the coolant. It only took like 10 mins for the gauge to hit Hot and i'm like..
also the fan still doesn't work after the Thermo switch changed in the same housing as the T-stat.
#15 is called Thermo Unit.
#17 sensor assembly water temp
Help!!!
flyinryan122 wrote:eg_hatchie wrote:i have the same problem.. i go to the radiator show this morning.. he overhauled my radiator.. replace my thermostat.. and my radiator cap.. after 30 mins of driving my temp gauge is still going high... .. any help pls?!.... my fans are working..
check the coolant temp sensor in the cylinder (located under the distributor) if it goes bad your gage will say it over heating when your really not. a way i was told to check it was to take the sensor out, plug it back into the wire that pluggs to it, turn your ignition on, and touch the end of the sensor to the body or somewhere it can be grounded, if it sparks it's good if not it's time for a trip to honda, mine was about $36 i think???
And to teal, will this be #15 or is it #17
I have changed the WP, T-stat, Thermo switch today, and bleed the coolant. It only took like 10 mins for the gauge to hit Hot and i'm like..
also the fan still doesn't work after the Thermo switch changed in the same housing as the T-stat.
#15 is called Thermo Unit.
#17 sensor assembly water temp
Help!!!
- Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:30 pm
#329084
alright, so took the sensor out #15 and performed the test. No spark no nothing!!! Jumped into the car and check the gauge. It is like below half on the temp gauge. Just like how a normal car will warm up where the needle will sit.
Funny, how the car is stone cold and the gauge is saying it is normal warm.
Unplug the sucker and gauge went to stone cold below C. time to change the temp unit.
BUT do I change out #17 as well since the fan wasn't kicking on or it should be fine? any way to check or test this sensor as well?
Funny, how the car is stone cold and the gauge is saying it is normal warm.
Unplug the sucker and gauge went to stone cold below C. time to change the temp unit.
BUT do I change out #17 as well since the fan wasn't kicking on or it should be fine? any way to check or test this sensor as well?
- Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:08 am
#334454
Hi teal my problem is not overheating my coolant goes to the overflow tank an i have to fill the radiator every day i change the radiator water pump and still doing the same thing help me guys please my setup is a d16y7 with an after market coil headers air intake
- Sun Jul 21, 2013 5:26 am
#334488
Something if forcing the coolant out of the system. Perhaps a leaking head gasket as I describe in the beginning of this thread. I would do a compression test. Are there signs of oil in the coolant, any cookie dough under the radiator cap?
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum! 
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
- Tue Apr 08, 2014 7:57 am
#344224
History: Bought the car (95 Honda Civic EX 1.6L) 5years ago with 180xxx and now has 222xxx miles 
The car ran perfectly until 2 years ago when I bought a motorcycle, due to neglect (forgetting to check coolant levels) the car began to overheat due to no coolant in the radiator. Since then, I have been having on/off heating issues.
back to point: In the span of 2 years, the car has overheated about 10x. I have replaced 2 radiators (once was a leak on the bottom,second time cracked the top plastic off), hoses, 3 blown radiator caps, thermostat, fan, fan-switch, and coolant temp. sensor. Every time it overheated, I would take it to the shop and replace whatever part that got blown or ruptured;after doing so it would always fix the problem. Despite my efforts, usually 2 months after repairs, the overheating problem would persist. Today while driving on a congested highway, I noticed my temp. needle going above half-way. I turned on the the heater and the needle went back down to normal (little bit below half way). About 15min. later (Highway cleared up and was driving normal highway speeds 65mph) the car shut off. I pulled over to the right and waited for the engine to cool down. I then checked the radiator and still had coolant inside, checked oil and for leaks and no apparent signs of leakage. I got back in the car and tried to start it up but it did not want to start. I don't think its a blown head-gasket, since i have checked the oil and coolant and no white smoke coming out the tail. I'm going to try out the compression test and or replace water pump. I will keep you updated ..Any information will be appreciated. thank you in advance.
The car ran perfectly until 2 years ago when I bought a motorcycle, due to neglect (forgetting to check coolant levels) the car began to overheat due to no coolant in the radiator. Since then, I have been having on/off heating issues.
back to point: In the span of 2 years, the car has overheated about 10x. I have replaced 2 radiators (once was a leak on the bottom,second time cracked the top plastic off), hoses, 3 blown radiator caps, thermostat, fan, fan-switch, and coolant temp. sensor. Every time it overheated, I would take it to the shop and replace whatever part that got blown or ruptured;after doing so it would always fix the problem. Despite my efforts, usually 2 months after repairs, the overheating problem would persist. Today while driving on a congested highway, I noticed my temp. needle going above half-way. I turned on the the heater and the needle went back down to normal (little bit below half way). About 15min. later (Highway cleared up and was driving normal highway speeds 65mph) the car shut off. I pulled over to the right and waited for the engine to cool down. I then checked the radiator and still had coolant inside, checked oil and for leaks and no apparent signs of leakage. I got back in the car and tried to start it up but it did not want to start. I don't think its a blown head-gasket, since i have checked the oil and coolant and no white smoke coming out the tail. I'm going to try out the compression test and or replace water pump. I will keep you updated ..Any information will be appreciated. thank you in advance.
- Tue Apr 08, 2014 1:09 pm
#344230
How high were the temps when the car shut off? Have you done a compression test?
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
- Tue May 13, 2014 9:36 pm
#345575
Here's one for you. 94 CX hatch D15B7 184xxx.
New: Rad hoses, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, fan switch and heater core hoses.
Recently had a cooling system flush.
Before all of this my upper rad hose was swelling to the point of being double its normal size. That is what prompted all this work. Now after all is said and done the hose doesn't swell anymore, but my fan doesn't come on. The temp gauge stays just below half and I don't lose coolant anymore, but it still drives me crazy that it doesn't come on. I have jumped the connection and the fan spools up so I know the fan is ok.....im stumped...
New: Rad hoses, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, fan switch and heater core hoses.
Recently had a cooling system flush.
Before all of this my upper rad hose was swelling to the point of being double its normal size. That is what prompted all this work. Now after all is said and done the hose doesn't swell anymore, but my fan doesn't come on. The temp gauge stays just below half and I don't lose coolant anymore, but it still drives me crazy that it doesn't come on. I have jumped the connection and the fan spools up so I know the fan is ok.....im stumped...