General engine questions/issues that aren't specific to the other categories
By AbelThorn
#358152 I recently received a 92 hatch with a b16a3 swap. The car wont start, I have spent about two weeks researching and messing with it and I can't figure out why. When I turn it over it cranks but does not actually fire or start. The cam gears turn, the fuel pump runs, already the electrical components run. It cannot be push started but I had the starter checked anyway, it is good and getting 11.5 volts from the battery. I tried tried a brand new distributor and no change. I pull a plug and crank the car, I am getting a bright white spark every half second, The same color and frequency as a known good b series engine. I swapped the main relay, plugs, wires, and all relevant fuses and relays with the same known good b series (my dd), no change. I believe it is getting fuel because I can hear the pump and the plugs are wet when I remove them. I assume it has air because the throttle body opens and closes. I checked the three main engine grounds, off the valve cover, the thermostat housing, and down by the tranny, they all appear to be fine. It is really confusing me that it appears to have fuel and spark yet won't chug or cough or anything, I am about ready to throw in the towel and have a shop take a look but that would be giving up and that's not what I do. If anyone has any suggestions of things for me to try I would greatly appreciate it, this thing is driving me crazy.

It's a b16a3 swapped into a 92 civic hatch, has a greddy turbo and all the usual mods done as well. I would awfully like to drive it.
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By teal_dx
#358153 Do you know for sure the engine ran before you got it? You've done everything right so far... the only thing missing from the list is compression. If you don't have a compression tester, you can get a feel for compression by turning the crank by hand with a ratchet under the driver's wheel well. It should get easier/harder to crank by hand. The next thing to check is mechanical timing.
Is the wiring original or did someone do a wire tuck?
By AbelThorn
#358162 Yes I drove it a few months ago, it needed a jump but it ran fine after that. The wiring is super sketchy, I traced every line and sealed up anything I found, that was also when I checked all the grounds. The starter is getting 11.6 volts, the rest of the wiring is rather spliced and stuffed into nooks and crannies. I turned the cam pulley by hand and I can feel some pressure although not as much as my other car, as far as timing it looks pretty dead on judging by the mark on the lower timing belt cover vs the cam pulley, and the corresponding notches on the cam gears. The belt is nice and tight too, when it cranks it all turns. I could rent a compression tester if you think that could be it.

The car I'm comparing it too is a 96 gsr. It's obd2 but everything else seems to be very similar.
By AbelThorn
#358165 Update: A compression test revealed 160-180 psi per cylinder, I added oil added got to 260 so I figure it's the piston rings. I put some oil in each cylinder and it fired up and ran for about 30 seconds until all the oil burnt up and it died. As it was starting to die I gave it some gas which made it last a few seconds longer. I guess the next step is new rings, my question now is, while I have the block apart is it worth it to replace the other common engine rebuild components as well? I am on a budget for this but I don't want something else to blow on me later. I am trying to run 8ish psi which should be fine, but while I have it apart I'm thinking I should replace everything. Is there a preferred brand? I don't want to go full ebay...
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By Xaser
#358166 When I started reading your post I would have put money on it being the main relay but you have already swapped that. Do you have a CEL at all? From your second post its sounding like it may be a wiring issue, failing to pickup the crank sensor would stop it starting but should also throw a CEL. I know you said you have checked your grounds did you remove them and make sure they were clean and making good contact?
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By Xaser
#358167 Hmm that still seems a little strange 180psi dry should have still been enough compression to run. Not to sure on the specs of the a3's but even if that was a little low it should have still run if a little lumpy. As for the rebuild info, hopefully there will be someone with more experience that can post.
By AbelThorn
#358168 No cel. I removed and cleaned the grounds. 180 psi Is pretty close but it still wouldn't start dry. I don't know what modifications the previous owner made to the engine internals so that could be a factor. I know it has aftermarket cam shafts atleast.
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By teal_dx
#358172 Sucks that it's the rings, but good that you solved the issue. See if you can find out from the owner what engine work was done. Also, how many miles and was the engine ever rebuilt before? If everything else looks good inside (bearings and cyl walls) then I'd say get by with just doing the rings, if you're never going to get too crazy with boost. You can even do that without pulling the motor, if that makes it easier for you. ARP headstuds instead of oem headbolts, since you'll boost it. See when the owner last did timing belt/water pump as well. :thumb:
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By teal_dx
#358174 Sucks that it's the rings, but good that you solved the issue. See if you can find out from the owner what engine work was done. Also, how many miles and was the engine ever rebuilt before? If everything else looks good inside (bearings and cyl walls) then I'd say get by with just doing the rings, if you're never going to get too crazy with boost. You can even do that without pulling the motor, if that makes it easier for you. ARP headstuds instead of oem headbolts, since you'll boost it. See when the owner last did timing belt/water pump as well. :thumb:
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By teal_dx
#358185 I have replaced rod bearings through the bottom of the motor, Replacing piston rings is just an additional step further.

I removed the header, oil pan, and main girdle. Then loosened the rod hardware and removed the cap (just one at a time to avoid the rod scratching anything while not connected to the crank) and then turned the crank by hand to move it to gain access to the top bearing on the rod. I didn't have to remove the head, but you will. From there, you'll just need to carefully push each rod/piston up thru the motor (having a second set of hands above is ideal.)

Just be careful not to scratch the crank or cyl walls with the rod end - wrap it up in a rag to be safe.

If you end up replacing more than just the rings, I would pull the motor. You would have to if the cyls need honed or if you decide to replace crank bearings while it's half way apart. (ideal time for clutch too) I personally hate working upside down on my back.

To start, I'd pull the head and see how the cyl walls look. :thumb:
By HeikDiesel
#358189 260 compression? I've never compression tested a Honda over 200, granted I'm at 6000' of elevation, but still. I don't think the issue lies within the rings personally
By AbelThorn
#358192 The 260 was with oil, I'm going to take take a look inside before committing to replacing the rings, after more research I see that blown rings generally give was smaller numbers than my 160s.