- Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:46 pm
#37058
This is pretty simple, all you need is a compression tester & ratchet/socket/extension to remove your spark lugs. Do this with the engine WARM.
got a compression tester for xmas
The small adaptor on the left is not needed for our engines. That piece can contact the piston or valves if used, since it extends into the combustion chamber.
Unplug your spark plugs & label their order if needed.
If your distributor is unmodified, then unplug the dizzy harness. The smaller plug with the 2 thick wires should be all you need to unplug.
I have an external coil, so I just unplugged that to prevent spark.
Remove spark plugs and remember what order you set them in. The plug condition may help you determine the cause of a problem if one of the cyls has low compression.
Insert the threaded hose end into the plug hole & screw it in by twisting the hose clockwise. It should be snug, there's a rubber O-ring on the end for a good seal, so there's no need to crank it down like you would a spark plug.
Once the hose is tight, slide the collar up on the gauge & connect it just like it was a compressor air hose.
Next you can set the compressor down and go turn the key, or have someone else turn the key if you want to watch the needle go up.
Keep the engine cranking enough so that all 4 cycles happen in the cyl you are testing. If you don't crank it long enough, you'll miss the combustion cycle & have a really low reading. You're not going to hurt anything by cranking it too much.
Here's a video: http://civic-eg.com/pics/diy/compressio ... CN2749.MOV
I was using my remote start since I didn't have anyone to hold the camera. The remote start only cranks for a couple seconds at a time, so you can see how compression increases with each cycle.
Read the gauge and write down on paper the PSI of that cyl. I had the engine warmed up, but by the time I charged the camera battery (30-40 min), it cooled back down a lot. I'm wondering if that had any affect on the outcome of the test...
After you're done, put the plugs back in. Connect the plug wires & distributor plug. Start it up & let it run for a min to burn up the gas went in while you were doing the testing.
got a compression tester for xmas
The small adaptor on the left is not needed for our engines. That piece can contact the piston or valves if used, since it extends into the combustion chamber.
Unplug your spark plugs & label their order if needed.
If your distributor is unmodified, then unplug the dizzy harness. The smaller plug with the 2 thick wires should be all you need to unplug.
I have an external coil, so I just unplugged that to prevent spark.
Remove spark plugs and remember what order you set them in. The plug condition may help you determine the cause of a problem if one of the cyls has low compression.
Insert the threaded hose end into the plug hole & screw it in by twisting the hose clockwise. It should be snug, there's a rubber O-ring on the end for a good seal, so there's no need to crank it down like you would a spark plug.
Once the hose is tight, slide the collar up on the gauge & connect it just like it was a compressor air hose.
Next you can set the compressor down and go turn the key, or have someone else turn the key if you want to watch the needle go up.
Keep the engine cranking enough so that all 4 cycles happen in the cyl you are testing. If you don't crank it long enough, you'll miss the combustion cycle & have a really low reading. You're not going to hurt anything by cranking it too much.
Here's a video: http://civic-eg.com/pics/diy/compressio ... CN2749.MOV
I was using my remote start since I didn't have anyone to hold the camera. The remote start only cranks for a couple seconds at a time, so you can see how compression increases with each cycle.
Read the gauge and write down on paper the PSI of that cyl. I had the engine warmed up, but by the time I charged the camera battery (30-40 min), it cooled back down a lot. I'm wondering if that had any affect on the outcome of the test...
After you're done, put the plugs back in. Connect the plug wires & distributor plug. Start it up & let it run for a min to burn up the gas went in while you were doing the testing.
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum! 
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
This wasn't an all-in-one-tune-your-engine thread.
