Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:56 pm #333714 Anyone ever use Royal Purple 10w40 oil before?
or Royal Purple on the whole? im gonna do my first oil change to synthetic in my B16 and was leaning towards this oil.
Just wondering if anyone ever had or there's any issues with this oil before i use it on my baby.. heard some stuff bout engine getting noisy and scaring of cams when using this oil dont know if its true or not
Feed back on this oil would be greatly appreciated...

"If you have poo, fling it now"!.

- Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:20 pm #333717 Royal purple is one of the best oils you can get, but you will need 5w30 for the motor and 10w40 for the transmission.

your car is your story, dont let someone else write the book.

91 s10 (sold)
92 civic si with jdm b16a (Sold) http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=13460
99 civic lx (current) viewtopic.php?f=63&t=30348

- Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:33 pm #333719 oh i forgot to mentioned i live in the caribbean so the climate here is pretty hot...5W30 wont get to thin when heated up??

"If you have poo, fling it now"!.

- Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:36 pm #333720 I dont know. The hottest I've seen here in the states is 110 Fahrenheit

your car is your story, dont let someone else write the book.

91 s10 (sold)
92 civic si with jdm b16a (Sold) http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=13460
99 civic lx (current) viewtopic.php?f=63&t=30348

- Mon Jul 01, 2013 10:12 pm #333725 Maybe for a full race engine I would recommend Royal Purple or Torco fluids. I buy Mobil 1 full synthetic from WalMart for like 22 bucks for 5 quarts.

1992 Honda Civic SIR-S

- Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:19 pm #333729 I'm not a huge fan of full synthetic for anything. ESPECIALLY not a race motor. The high zinc Brad Penn 20w50 I run has like 3% synthetic. Literally just enough to keep everything coated with oil for cold starts, which is about all synthetic is good for.

For your NA stock motor, dyno Mobil 1 is just fine. If you wanna get fancy, try the Mobil 1 synthetic blend.

600whp Turbo 84mm LS/Vtec Drag Hatch

- Tue Jul 02, 2013 12:53 pm #333747 Why would full synthetic be bad for a race engine?

1992 Honda Civic SIR-S

- Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:16 pm #333754 To keep it simple, synthetic coats everything better but just doesn't have the lubricating properties/strength that dyno oil with zinc does.

600whp Turbo 84mm LS/Vtec Drag Hatch

- Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:33 pm #333761 Well I know with our hydraulic oil at work the zinc content is a big selling point because of the tight tolerences of the system components.

I guess I'll have to read up more. I never thought synthetic could be bad for anything. I read where a scientist broke the old wive's tale about switching to synthetic being bad but I've never heard about it being bad for high performance engines compared to non.

1992 Honda Civic SIR-S

[Apexracing]

- Thu Jul 04, 2013 1:50 pm #333852 I’ve ran mobile 1 synthetic in every car i’ve owned since high school. It has never let me down.

- Fri Aug 02, 2013 9:53 am #335025 dino is not better than synthetic. who says this and what data do you bring?


from my understanding the syn is better.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/


has a bunch of info above



also you can add anything to a syn oil you can add to a dino oil. so you can add zinc to a syn.

1995 4 door civic b18c jrsc

- Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:48 pm #335033 For a race motor built with huge oil clearances, it needs that oil to stay thick when hot. The thinner synthetic doesn't provide enough "body" while filling that space and the bearing can actually like clap together which destroys everything.


like I said, synthetic for your stock motor is absolutely great stuff. Synthetic in a race motor with large oil clearances, not so much.

600whp Turbo 84mm LS/Vtec Drag Hatch

- Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:50 pm #335034 http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-105/


you must of missed article 105


also staying thick when hot has nothing to do with dino or syn. it has to do with the properties of the oil. the numbers

1995 4 door civic b18c jrsc

- Fri Aug 02, 2013 9:22 pm #335057 This is an endless argument.. There's a bunch of good/interesting info on that site but I lol'd at this..

Motor oil that is labeled for RACING ONLY is not usable for every day driving. Often these have more additives that are toxic to your catalytic converters and the environment. These oils generally do not have detergents. These are very important for your engine unless you plan on taking it apart every few weeks and cleaning every single surface. The oils do not meet the API / SAE requirements for ratings as SJ, SL or now SM.

All I'm saying is, there's a reason a handful of race shops I personally know that will only warranty their work if the motor is ran on dino Brad Penn Race. I'm sure there's a perfect synthetic out there, but it must be too expensive or too hard to get.

600whp Turbo 84mm LS/Vtec Drag Hatch

- Tue Oct 08, 2013 12:53 am #337403 Even though Royal Purple is specially formulated to leave a thin film to aid in cold starts?

I understand how it would be important to have a thinker oil to fill the tolerances in the engine. I just have a hard time believing full synthetic oil like Royal Purple would be BAD for a race engine. Wouldn't running a thinker full synthetic be the best of both worlds?

Personally I run 5w30 Royal Purple in my B16a2 and it helped that old motor out a bit. Previous owners didn't treat her with the best respect. {The IAT was plugged into the IACV by the owner who did the swap and was like that until I owned it and checked the wiring... still need to find a IAT sensor and bung it into my intake.}
But my motor is stock... currently.