- Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:46 am
#325506
Ok guy i have a 1995 2dr civic with a d16y7 it work fine on the other car but when i put the engine in my car it start' fine but when i go an drive it it's back fire for what reason i dont know when i reach 3 thousnad rpm it goes crazy i check all my ground fuel is flows and current is good and i dont get any cel i just dont know what wrong help guy pls i need to fix this problem by next week im going to atl Thank You for alll your help guys
- Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:13 pm
#325517
is the actual RPMs going crazy like you hear it revving up and down or is the Tach needle going crazy?
- Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:51 pm
#325525
Good question could be a case of old hondaitous lol if its doing what he said burp the cooling system really good, also if the tach is going crazy check your dash grounds mine did this after my k swap, was just a loose ground hope this helps
Brandonthesmith wrote:is the actual RPMs going crazy like you hear it revving up and down or is the Tach needle going crazy?
Good question could be a case of old hondaitous lol if its doing what he said burp the cooling system really good, also if the tach is going crazy check your dash grounds mine did this after my k swap, was just a loose ground hope this helps
"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer
- Mon Feb 04, 2013 2:58 am
#325538
Brandonthesmith no when the car is at full stop it rev all the way to 7rpm but when i take of in 1 when the rpm hit 4 my car sound like it breaking up the only thing i did was convert the distribution form obd1 to obd2 that's it
- Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:31 am
#325543
Oh, its very important to explain what is going in detail as well as what you did before it was acting up.
What kind of wire conversion was the engine originally obd2? Did you purchase a ecu plugc conversion and go from obd1 to obd2?
Did you swap an obd2 dizzy and convert it to obd1???
These things are important to help further diagnose
What kind of wire conversion was the engine originally obd2? Did you purchase a ecu plugc conversion and go from obd1 to obd2?
Did you swap an obd2 dizzy and convert it to obd1???
These things are important to help further diagnose
"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer
- Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:40 pm
#325584
My wire harness is obd1 complete bout i had to transfer evrything from the obd1 distributor to the obd2 distributor so the obd2 distributor bolt up to the 16y7 i paid 25 to do it because where i went they didnt had the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness. An the thing is am not getting any cel
- Mon Feb 04, 2013 6:54 pm
#325587
sounds like a crap job, did they solder it together or use butt connectors? and the other thing is make sure you have a cel
turn the key on, does the cel illuminate? if so your good
the other thing to check out is your spark plugs, timing, rotor, cap, and again inspect those wires to the distributor
let me do some research on your distributor and engine ill get back to you soon if you don't figure it out by then
turn the key on, does the cel illuminate? if so your good
the other thing to check out is your spark plugs, timing, rotor, cap, and again inspect those wires to the distributor
let me do some research on your distributor and engine ill get back to you soon if you don't figure it out by then
"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer
- Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:46 pm
#325591
That info helps
Your car & engine harness are both OBD1, why bother with an OBD2 distributor & converting it to OBD1 when you could just use an OBD1 distributor? Unless I'm missing something here...
D15b7 and D15b8 Distributor bolts right up to D16y7 and D16y8 heads, plugs right into OBD1 harness. Also remember that an OBD1 distributor has the crank position sensor inside the dizzy while OBD2 motors have them located on the other side of the block, by the crank.
Put on a D15b7 dizzy and call it a day
My wire harness is obd1 complete bout i had to transfer evrything from the obd1 distributor to the obd2 distributor so the obd2 distributor bolt up to the 16y7 i paid 25 to do it because where i went they didnt had the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness. An the thing is am not getting any cel
That info helps
Your car & engine harness are both OBD1, why bother with an OBD2 distributor & converting it to OBD1 when you could just use an OBD1 distributor? Unless I'm missing something here...
D15b7 and D15b8 Distributor bolts right up to D16y7 and D16y8 heads, plugs right into OBD1 harness. Also remember that an OBD1 distributor has the crank position sensor inside the dizzy while OBD2 motors have them located on the other side of the block, by the crank.
Put on a D15b7 dizzy and call it a day
Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage
- Mon Feb 04, 2013 8:38 pm
#325596
teal_dx you are right about the crank sensor, if you dont have crank sensor voltage your car will run like garbge or not run at all. ive seen some wierdness surrounding the crank sensors....
go back to obd1 save the headache
go back to obd1 save the headache
"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer
- Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:35 am
#325606
Thanks guy but what the guy did was he take all the obd1 internals and put it on the obd2 because i had a z6 distributor and it didnt bolt up to the y7 but i got d15b7 distributor i will try that one an see if it fix it an let you guy know thank for helping me guy with the info