Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:51 am #307781 got a check engine light on my eg hatch with d16z6 swap has p28 ecu

I have had this check engine light on since day one and can't figure it out

I pulled the code and got 6 consistent flashes. I looked it up and says my egt or engine temp sensor, I pulled one from another engine i had that i know was good reset the ecu by pulling the fuse check engine light came right back on a few seconds later checked the code and its the same one.

A friend told me I pulled the wrong sensor so I replaced the one on the back side of the thermostat housing this time instead of the one on the front, then I replaced the sensor that goes to the temp gauge for the heck of it.

Still has the same code after multiple resets.

Other symptoms im having is after engine warms up getting idle surge not sure if its related or not, over time I slowly loose coolant from overflow takes bout 2 to 3 weeks of driving to empty it to low, engine temperature never quite reaches half way point on the gauge and i have never once heard the fan cut on. I have also swapped out the relay on the under the hood fuse, checked the fuses. I hard wired a power wire to test the radiator fan and it does work.

This car has been like this since I bought it. It seems to drive fine as far as I can tell. During hot days I can tell it doesn't have the get up to it like on cold mornings but thats any engine for the most part.

I was thinking maybe I should see if I have a stuck open thermostat? I however was not sure if this would cause the ecu to throw a egt code

- Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:54 pm #308007 the two wire plug on the head is your ECT Sensor, tells the ECU the temp of the engine. If you tried a new sensor, then check the wiring.

the sensor on the thermostat housing is a fan switch.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:41 am #308515 Ive replaced all 3 and wiring so im lost at,this point

- Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:24 pm #308521 You've replaced the wiring from the sensor to the ECU? Youve replaced the temp sending unit, fan switch and ECT to fix a code 6? Seems like youre not really diagnosing the issue, you're just throwing parts at it.

Have you tried a different ECU?

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

[teal_dx]

- Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:49 am #308554 Some things to check out:
Is there traces of oily film on top of the coolant?
'cookie dough' under the radiator cap?
coolant in oil?
burning coolant?

Do a compression test.

You may have a failing headgasket.

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage

- Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:51 am #308560 A code 6 can be caused by a bad headgasket?

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

[teal_dx]

- Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:11 pm #308615

A code 6 can be caused by a bad headgasket?

Reading the symptoms, it's worth checking the simple things before throwing any more $$ at parts or a new ECU.

It's not just a sensor or an ecu problem if he's losing coolant.

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage

- Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:29 pm #308617 I used to think people would check the simple things before posting a help thread, but such is not the case.



OP - if you have anyway of pressurizing the system, I'd say to that so you can hopefully find your leak.

I had a small pin-hole in on of the hoses coming off my IACV to the IM on my B16, it would cause the idle issues youre talking about and over time, I'd lose coolant at about the same rate youre stating you are.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 2:37 am #308685

I used to think people would check the simple things before posting a help thread, but such is not the case.



OP - if you have anyway of pressurizing the system, I'd say to that so you can hopefully find your leak.

I had a small pin-hole in on of the hoses coming off my IACV to the IM on my B16, it would cause the idle issues youre talking about and over time, I'd lose coolant at about the same rate youre stating you are.

where was the iac leak? between the air part or coolant?

1995 4 door civic b18c jrsc

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 3:26 am #308696 Sorry For the late reply been kind of busy the past few days but to answer everyone’s post

You've replaced the wiring from the sensor to the ECU? Youve replaced the temp sending unit, fan switch and ECT to fix a code 6? Seems like you’re not really diagnosing the issue, you're just throwing parts at it.

Have you tried a different ECU?

I am doing the best I can to fix the issue, ive been doing research for months on several sites, talking to fellow mechanics around the area. I had the parts lying around from a spare engine that I had that I knew all the sensors were good.

I usually wouldn’t go spending money on parts to try to fix an issue because I don’t have money to go blowing on sensors when im not even sure that’s the problem.

I first did the 2 wire sensor that is closest to the front side of the engine that sits right in front of the sensor that feeds the info to the gauge. I then replaced my gauge sensor thinking that just maybe it was faulty and wanted to make sure that the engine was not actually getting hotter than it said it was. I figured the pin out on the ecu and ran some test wires and pulled plugs off a junk harness I had laying around and tapped into one at a time resetting the ecu by pulling the fuse Until I had tapped into the 3 sensors

I was thinking faulty ecu but I don’t have anyone I can borrow a spare p28 from to see and it wouldn’t hurt to have a spare one on hand but I don’t have that kind of cash right now for a test part that might not even be the issue but if I can’t figure any thing else out I may look into this as an option and im going to pull the ecu and take it to my dads to have him look at it he repairs circuitry for a living so ima see if he finds anything abnormal

Some things to check out:
Is there traces of oily film on top of the coolant?
'cookie dough' under the radiator cap?
coolant in oil?
burning coolant?

Do a compression test.

You may have a failing headgasket.

NO oily film on top of coolant looks normal

Radiator cap is free and clear not sure what you mean by cookie dough but looks as a rad cap should

Oil is normal
Exhaust smells, like exhaust not that sweet smell, no smoke at all. It smoked a lil before but that was because when I got the car it had a straight pipe on it and I put a cat back on it along with a muffler

I have not done a compression check yet but I will see if I can borrow my friends tool tomorrow and let you know what I come up with

I used to think people would check the simple things before posting a help thread, but such is not the case.



OP - if you have anyway of pressurizing the system, I'd say to that so you can hopefully find your leak.

I had a small pin-hole in on of the hoses coming off my IACV to the IM on my B16, it would cause the idle issues youre talking about and over time, I'd lose coolant at about the same rate youre stating you are.

I am not sure how I would pressurize the system exactly but I will try to google that later and see if I find some leaks thanks for that tip

I used to think people would check the simple things before posting a help thread, but such is not the case.



OP - if you have anyway of pressurizing the system, I'd say to that so you can hopefully find your leak.

I had a small pin-hole in on of the hoses coming off my IACV to the IM on my B16, it would cause the idle issues youre talking about and over time, I'd lose coolant at about the same rate youre stating you are.

where was the iac leak? between the air part or coolant?

More than likely, unless there is something else im wrong about which I admit happens, he probably didn’t mean the IACV the FITV, fast idle thermo valve, also called fast idle air valve even though coolant pumps through it. On the bottom of the throttle body. I have already removed, disassemebled and cleaned this part and put it back together because of my idle issue’s im also having.

I am really trying to figure this problem as its annoying and im tired of leaking around all over town.

If I find anything else out I will let you guys know

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:42 am #308737 I was talking about the coolant hose that ran from the IACV to the TB. It had a pin-hole.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:45 am #308738 I read a couple more threads on here I am really starting to lean towards a bad thermostat. I didn't think it could cause an issue as far as throwing a cel. However I read in another thread where a guy had same problems and symptoms as me and once he replaced the thermostat the cel went away.

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:34 pm #308764 Pressure tested the engine showing good numbers across the board and holding, before anyone ask yes I let the engine warm up first.

I let the engine sit and idle and the fan finally kicked on out of no where. ran for about 30 seconds, turned off bout a min later kicked back on so I now know the problem is not in the fan relay, or the fan.

I think like others have said

its going to be a bad thermostat, leak somewhere, or what im hoping is last case a ecu problem.

I pulled the fuse and ima let my car sit for about 30 min before I put the fuse back in. I know that's over kill but I figure it can't hurt to try. I am not sure I believe that 15 second rule

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:48 pm #308769 Checked thermostat was not stuck, bled the radiator of air per instructions. Thermostat is working as should.

I am bout to head to parts store to have them pressure check the RAD system

- Wed Jun 20, 2012 3:51 am #308805 Well at this point only thing I could see it possibly could be is the ecu

Thermostat Looks good, bled the coolant system of air, blows hot air, fan kicks on when warmed up, I saw the coolant level drop as temps heated up, had a pressure test done could not see any leaks in the coolant system.

Reset the ecu about 5 or 6 times checked the codes after still getting 6 short blinks

I have 2 different ecu's laying around but neither one of them are vtec or for the d16z6 so I didn't think it would be a good idea to plug these up and see if that got rid of the code One was chipped with a basemap for h22 and the other was off a eg coup with a non vtec d series