Having EGT sensor Trouble

General engine questions/issues that aren't specific to the other categories
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By bks84
- Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:26 am #308826
TattooedFish wrote:Well at this point only thing I could see it possibly could be is the ecu

Thermostat Looks good, bled the coolant system of air, blows hot air, fan kicks on when warmed up, I saw the coolant level drop as temps heated up, had a pressure test done could not see any leaks in the coolant system.

Reset the ecu about 5 or 6 times checked the codes after still getting 6 short blinks

I have 2 different ecu's laying around but neither one of them are vtec or for the d16z6 so I didn't think it would be a good idea to plug these up and see if that got rid of the code One was chipped with a basemap for h22 and the other was off a eg coup with a non vtec d series

you can try the nonvtec and see if your CEL 6 comes up... you could even drive it, vtec wont work though .

Re: Having EGT sensor Trouble

By EJ1_MK
- Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:06 am #308833
TattooedFish wrote:
Other symptoms im having is after engine warms up getting idle surge not sure if its related or not, over time I slowly loose coolant from overflow takes bout 2 to 3 weeks of driving to empty it to low, engine temperature never quite reaches half way point on the gauge and i have never once heard the fan cut on. I have also swapped out the relay on the under the hood fuse, checked the fuses. I hard wired a power wire to test the radiator fan and it does work.

This car has been like this since I bought it. It seems to drive fine as far as I can tell. During hot days I can tell it doesn't have the get up to it like on cold mornings but thats any engine for the most part.

I was thinking maybe I should see if I have a stuck open thermostat? I however was not sure if this would cause the ecu to throw a egt code



This is what happened to my Integra and the head gasket was going bad, also is your radiator fan kicking on? you replaced the fan switch I read but did you check to see if the relay for the fan is working under the hood?? This would cause your car to over heat especially in city traffic or idle periods.

But if you are losing coolant from the res and your having to fill it you should do a leak down and a compression check and do everything that Teal_dx said to check to make sure your head gasket is not starting to go.


Standard compression test for a Z6 is around 190 psi.
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By TattooedFish
- Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:33 pm #308912 I did. Leak down its holding compression. Its not over heating originally the fan was not kicking on I replaced the relay and yesterday I let thed car idle and the fan kicked on by itself. Its like the engine doesn't get hot enough to give the cooling system a chance to do its job. I read that when the 6 code is on it retards the timing to help prevent over heating. Limp mode? I guess is what others call it.

I will swap out the ecu and see what happens
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By TattooedFish
- Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:58 am #308958 Ok its not the ecu, I swapped out the ex one and it started up as normal idle was a little choppy but the code came right back read it and still getting 6 blinks.

I am confused at this point.

By EJ1_MK
- Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:52 am #308960 Yeah honda's don't tend to run the fan unless it is extremely hot out or the system is getting taxed hard.

What was your compression per cylinder?

And you already replaced the temp sensor correct? If so which one? there are two one for the ECU and one for the cluster that are both on the head and your local parts department is not going to know which is which.
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By TattooedFish
- Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:20 am #308961 I replaced the one in front right below dizzy with 2 plugs coming off I know the one behind it is for the gauge and its reading and i swapped it out with a spare one i had and the reading didn't change. Then I also replaced the one on the thermostat housing as well.

All of the readings on the cyl was in the 160's range if you need exact numbers i will have to retest again I didn't write them down.. so lmk if you guys want those. I double checked the wiring and everything seems ok.

I know im reaching at this point but my logic is saying small leak im really thinking about replacing all the smaller coolant hoses on the engine just to see if that makes a difference even though we did not get any loss of pressure or hissing noise when we did the pressure test on the system. I also have a spare radiator that I may swap out as well.

I know just switching parts isn't the way to fix the problem but as said before im having to refill my overflow container about once every 3 weeks im not getting any kind of smoke and when i get on the gas i don't have bad throttle response, my oil isn't milky looking i had a car before that was burning coolant so i know the signs of that.

Only issues ive had with the car assides from the check engine light is at times my idle is kind of crazy. when it gets warmed up i get idle surge but only in a blue moon. I know that has something to do with the iacv and I have a spare one of those I can swap out tomorrow as well.



Any

By bks84
- Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:21 am #308962 He said hes switched all three; the ECT, the temp sensder and the fan switch.


Im betting its a wiring issue... even though I believe he said hes ran jumper wires.
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By TattooedFish
- Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:46 am #308963 I did run jumper wires. im going to replace my minor hoses and see if that makes any difference if not I will go back to wiring. I got a spare non vtec harness from a parts car.

I am dropping in a h22 in a few more months once i get the rest of the parts I need so I may just rebuild a engine harness cause I plan on adding a mil spec plug on the firewall at that time anyway

By EJ1_MK
- Thu Jun 21, 2012 11:42 pm #309020
bks84 wrote:He said hes switched all three; the ECT, the temp sensder and the fan switch.


Im betting its a wiring issue... even though I believe he said hes ran jumper wires.



Right but it looks like if his compression is 160 that is 30 psi off from factory and that is quite a bit lower than what it should. Now it causing the code that is beyond weird. The fan switch really would have nothing to do with the code but the the 2 wire connector on the head would, the only thing he should check now is that the connector has good terminals inside of it they might have fallen out or not making a good connection in which it would throw a code.

The only other things is to make sure that the coolant system was bleed out before he sealed it up. but if he is loosing coolant than the temp gauge is spiking then I would put money on head gasket or there is a hose with a leak in it that is allowing coolant to get out.
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