Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Tue Mar 13, 2012 6:18 pm #298063 Well as the Subject states, I am looking to go Vtec on my Turboed B20.

I am running a B20B, Stock Bottom End
.57 Trim Precission Turbo 12psi

I have a GSR Head I am planning to drop the head off at a machine shop to get cleaned up and maybe replace the Valves/valve steams before it goes on the car

I am looking at getting this kit
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/lig ... 69919.aspx
It seems like the most complet kit I have seen so far.

How hard is it to convert over? I have a decent amout of experience with cars. just not with doin Vtec stuff.
If I get this kit, what else might I need? Should I look at upgrading anything else before or during?
I plan on having the car tuned again right after the install...

What else would you guys suggest to do prior? during or after?
Run the same Oil Pump in the B20?
New timing belt?
Anything special to change that I might miss?
I have spent hrs reading and just wanna make sure I dont miss a vital element in the install as my Second motor is no where near ready to be dropped in and dont need that

- Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:38 pm #298074 you may want to get the V tec oil pump, and water pump the stock GSR or B16a ones will work fine....and some forge internals might be good

let me know how the B20vtec turbo pulls

"If you have poo, fling it now"!.

- Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:51 pm #298078 How high are you planning on revving? might want to invest in a set of arp rod bolts.

-Corey

- Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:04 pm #298079 Would the GSR Oil amd water pump be a must? Cuz if it is or if it is highly recomanded I will be ordering a new one as well.

I dont plan on reving very high at all... 6,800-7200 when beating on it.
I am using this motor as just something to play on while the other gets sent out and money saved up for everything for my other build which is this but with a sleeved and built B20 So this is just something to have....

Jred, I plan on having my SLR with me for the build.... to take pics of random things, and then when it goes on the Dyno to get tunned I plan on having it there for that and maybeing filing the whole session....

I just wanna be able to order everythiung before hand and that way when the build starts I can pull it all apart, put it all together and then drive it or tow it to the shop and get on the Dyno...

What ECU do you guys recomand? What all do I need to have with that? Just run some wires since my current set up is nonvtec what all do I need to do to all that and the ecu?

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:41 am #298176 All B20B/Z's usethe same oil pump as any OBD2 B series does. they all share the P72 in their part number

So, if you have adequate oil pressure then no reason to change it. There is no benefit to it.

If you're currently nonvtec then you will need to add the necessary wires for vtec.

as far as what ECU... p28, p06... whatever. Call around, find a reputable tuner in your are and run whatever EMS they recommend.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 3:04 pm #298209

How high are you planning on revving? might want to invest in a set of arp rod bolts.

ah yes a "must" just to be on the safe side

"If you have poo, fling it now"!.

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:00 pm #298212 I am not reving high... The car is tuned right now super safe... so thats what I will do with it again... I am not looking to make huge hp on this motor. Decent power and decent tq. and just use it for a while till I have everything built on my sparre B20

bks84-You say there all the same oil pump? if this is true why is it that people always say upgrade to a GSR one to not have any oil foaming and any issues?
Also the the B20B/Z is it the same as a B18B1 or a Vtec motor?

Im just trying to get my facts strait before I start ripping stuff apart and then end up with a hot mess of parts :/

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:21 pm #298213

I am not reving high... The car is tuned right now super safe... so thats what I will do with it again... I am not looking to make huge hp on this motor. Decent power and decent tq. and just use it for a while till I have everything built on my sparre B20

bks84-You say there all the same oil pump? if this is true why is it that people always say upgrade to a GSR one to not have any oil foaming and any issues?
Also the the B20B/Z is it the same as a B18B1 or a Vtec motor?

Im just trying to get my facts strait before I start ripping stuff apart and then end up with a hot mess of parts :/

I said B20's all have the same pump as OBD2 b series, and its fact. Check part numbers my friend.

97 ITR - 15100-P72-A01
97 CRV - 15100-P72-A01
97 GSR - 15100-P72-A01
97 Del Sol VTEC - 15100-P72-A01
97 LS - 15100-P72-A01

acuraoemparts.com & hondapartsdeals.com

Now the older LS's pre-95 have different pumps, that's why people change them. And its common knowledge that VTEC engines have different water pumps to prevent cavitation at higher RPM, this is why a VTEC engine has a 22 tooth water pump where as non-vtec engines have 19.

That siad, if your pump is in good working order, no need to upgrade. Unless you like everything to be new and have the extra laying around.

I for sure would upgrade your rod bolts. There are different opinions on if its safe practice to just drop the pan and pop the old bolts out and just install and torque the new ones, I feel its obligatory to have the rods resized after install so having a machine shop press the bolts in and the grinding the rods to ensure they're round on the big end.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:35 pm #298217 Ah got ya!

Thanks for listing all that!
well I will for sure be upgradeing the water pump. My oil pump is good.

I cant wait to do this swap.

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:42 pm #298219 I think ARP's should be mandatory for your setup. In stock form, if you're reving to the stock limit, ya sure leave the OEM's in there. Granted you're reving to the stock limit but you're also adding boost.

Use ARP bolts. Rod bolts in an LS and B20 are the weakpoint. Dont cheap out, it could bite you in the ass sooner than you think.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 4:48 pm #298221 I want to use them.

The only thing I see is people have the rod bolts machined?
Is that right?
If I have to do that, I might have to wait a bit longer to install this then...
I mean I have no problem putting them in, dropping the pan, and puttting in and tq them easy. I Just dont wanna have to have snything machined right now...I know in DSM's it was not a requirement to have them machined...

if I dont have to have them machined, I will do them.

- Wed Mar 14, 2012 5:05 pm #298229 Like I said, in my first LSV I had them installed and the rods resized. I dont have any experience doing any other way. I went with what my machinist said and have him do them since he was doing my block and all that other stuff anyway.

Try it, see if it works for ya. I honestly cant say.

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Thu Mar 15, 2012 2:40 am #298294 I dont have access to a machinest really, I am doin it my self. and from what I have been seeing online from backyard machanics, is that it doesnt work...Thats why I dont wanna do it on this motor.

Hummm....Ill see about the rod bolts when that comes.

- Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:34 am #298305 IMO and I mean this in the most sincerest manner. If you can't afford or don't have access to do it right the first time then don't do it. Cuz chances are it'll bite you in the ass and you'll just be another statistic as far as failed b20/lsv's.[/url]

A little piss ant like you isnt worth being banned over.

Yea he has a bad habit of being overly sarcastic.. .. at the wrong times..

- Thu Mar 15, 2012 3:40 am #298307

IMO and I mean this in the most sincerest manner. If you can't afford or don't have access to do it right the first time then don't do it. Cuz chances are it'll bite you in the ass and you'll just be another statistic as far as failed b20/lsv's.[/url]

I know thats why I am wondering if I should put it off till I get more time.

But either way, I will go to my tuner talk to him see what he will tell me.
And then if he says yeah, then Ill just have to get it machined...
Or ill just start putting the other motor together and use this set up for some fun...

Will I need anything else to cover my ass?