Civic EG

i have a ej2 dx model with a d16y7 motor and trans converted everything to obd1. i can drive for awhile car runs fine but all of sudden after driven for about an hour or longer i shut it off and it has trouble starting back up and i would have to pump the gas pedal and keep priming the fuel until it starts up and then after i drive off it rev limits it to about 3 and a half and i would have to shift and the idle keeps dropping can anybody help me out ?

sounds to me like there is no constant fuel delivery.

have you replaced fuel filter recently?

You either have one of two problems, the master relay is getting hot and cutting out, it is located on the drivers side right up under dash on the black frame that holds the dash in place. its left of the fuse panel. Or the distributor inside is starting to go out. That would cause the 3k issue. also a cause of it shutting off when you drive it after a while.

Key to this is that the pump is not constantly on until it see constant rpm, so priming it over and over wont help anything if your not getting spark. So start by checking to make sure that your distributor is working properly.

Fuel filter and fuel pump was replaced. Fuel rail was changed out with almost new objectors. Distributor was replaced with new cap rotor new spark and wires. Still can't future out the issue...

try swapping the fuel pump relay. i've had a similar issue with my FC when i went Walbro.

First, is there a check engine light?

Next time it is not starting, pull the spark plug wire out and check for spark by letting it arc to the valve cover. A bad coil (found inside of the distributor) will also be defective when hot and may be the reason you're not getting spark.

If you can hear the fuel pump prime, then the main relay is not the problem.

I have 3 relays everything works. I've tried the spark wire part everything works also but still can't find out the issue ... I've also done a compression test and everything comes out good.

I had a VERY similar problem not long ago. pretty much exactly what you described only once i pumped the gas pedal and it started it would run really high and cut out if u revved it or just tried to drive it could spit sputter buck and carry on.

i replaced
cap/rotor/wires/plugs
dizzy
main relay
and the air intake temp sensor

none of that worked. turned out to be the coolant temp sensor. and it wasnt throwing a CEL. $20 part and I havent had this problem since.

TrailerTrash wrote:I had a VERY similar problem not long ago. pretty much exactly what you described only once i pumped the gas pedal and it started it would run really high and cut out if u revved it or just tried to drive it could spit sputter buck and carry on.

i replaced
cap/rotor/wires/plugs
dizzy
main relay
and the air intake temp sensor

none of that worked. turned out to be the coolant temp sensor. and it wasnt throwing a CEL. $20 part and I havent had this problem since.

is that the one that's right under the distributor ? looks like a knock sensor type plug ? if its that one ive replaced that with a new one also. .. .

ej2sleep3r wrote:

TrailerTrash wrote:I had a VERY similar problem not long ago. pretty much exactly what you described only once i pumped the gas pedal and it started it would run really high and cut out if u revved it or just tried to drive it could spit sputter buck and carry on.

i replaced
cap/rotor/wires/plugs
dizzy
main relay
and the air intake temp sensor

none of that worked. turned out to be the coolant temp sensor. and it wasnt throwing a CEL. $20 part and I havent had this problem since.

is that the one that's right under the distributor ? looks like a knock sensor type plug ? if its that one ive replaced that with a new one also. .. .

there are 2. one is for the tempature gauge and the other one is for the ECU.