Civic EG

stock d16z6.. rebuild it and try to squeeze a little more horse outta it??
or just say the heck with it and do B series swap? daily driver for now would like to be able to hold its own against 1.8ls and 2.0ls

rebuild it!
it's always bigger pleause to drive something that's built not bought

B20vtec

Ha do whatever you think is going to be worth the time and money.

i am cheap man. when i spend money i want it to count. do the math see what you'll have in a built motor with a turbo and then see what you'll have in a b series swap. only thing is, if you build it you know what you've done to it and how hard you've beat on that engine. you have no idea the history of that b series. I'm wondering the same thing myself right now. i found a site that promises 50-60hp for $699 when they rebuild your head. I'm considering this with a turbo setup. of course you would also need to build the bottom end to match.http://importperformanceparts.net/ look under honda then head porting


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^^ companies will tell you what you want to hear. 50-60 hp gain just from a p&p and a 3 angle valve job doesnt seem realistic.

poorman type-r wrote:^^ companies will tell you what you want to hear. 50-60 hp gain just from a p&p and a 3 angle valve job doesnt seem realistic.

its not realistic at all if you ask me.

a head rebuild aint gunna give you that. I doubt even a fully built head will give you that much of a gain

Yeah not even with Bisimoto Level X cams, bisi springs, retainers, valves and cam gears then you can probably get close to 35-40 max.

You will probably get a few hp gain with the p&p.

im goin to try to rebuild it. i picked up a head and intake manafold for dirt cheap. iv never done anything like this and i want to do it right the first time. whats good brands for doing rebuilds? possibly stage 2 camshaft better valves?

Skunk2 would be the best for a daily driver. Skunk2 cams, valves, valve springs and retainers. AEM Tru-Time cam gear, DC headers and a cold air intake would be a nice start to a NA build.

i want more nut out of it stage 1 or stage 2 cam? with valves go with high compression?

roy93 wrote:i am cheap man. when i spend money i want it to count. do the math see what you'll have in a built motor with a turbo and then see what you'll have in a b series swap. only thing is, if you build it you know what you've done to it and how hard you've beat on that engine.

We think alike. I'm going to rock the z6 in my coupe till it pops. Then, I'll source a good b swap to put in. I've started buying little stuff like axles, ecu, tranny, shift linkage, etc, etc.......................

I know the condition of a used motor will always be in question, but the potential of a b18/b20 will outweigh the potential of my z6

I would get Stage 2, you can even get Crower Stage 2 or maybe even 3. Yes get the flat-top race valves.

You have two options

1. rebuild the Z6 and make around 150-180 depending on compression ration and cam/head work.

2. buy a sway b18c1 or b16, and make about the same power with bolt on parts.

3. There is the last option but its going to cost some money and machine work, get LS rods GX pistons you will have to run e85 cause with out decking the block or head your looking at 12:5.1 or more compression. but the block has to be notched for the rod length. but you will make more power this way on a single cam 180+ hp

All will cost you right around 3k or better depending on parts and machine work.

It is always nice to build something up in the end your still buying it from some one. I have a friend building a Y8 right now and he already has about 1500 in with just the block work rods and pistons. Hasn't even started on the head and looks like that will be another 2500 for intake manifold and cam/ springs retainers and new valves. etc.


Look at all your options talk to your local speed shops and engine machine shops might be better to just go B series for the price tag.

EJ1_MK wrote:3. There is the last option but its going to cost some money and machine work, get LS rods GX pistons you will have to run e85 cause with out decking the block or head your looking at 12:5.1 or more compression. but the block has to be notched for the rod length. but you will make more power this way on a single cam 180+ hp

I like this option. Might have to look into it.

kingjmack wrote:

EJ1_MK wrote:3. There is the last option but its going to cost some money and machine work, get LS rods GX pistons you will have to run e85 cause with out decking the block or head your looking at 12:5.1 or more compression. but the block has to be notched for the rod length. but you will make more power this way on a single cam 180+ hp

I like this option. Might have to look into it.

Yeah it is, you have to take off like so many mm off each side of the rod and notch the block. just have to find good rods and a machine shop that will do the work or has a jig.