Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Wed Dec 01, 2010 5:23 pm #225441 The "Roll Pin" you are talking about on the shift linkage is usually called a "Bitch Pin" because it it a Bitch to remove.
But if you replace it with a bolt you will end up with a sloppy shift lever. Honda uses a Roll Pin for a reason. You want a nice tight feel to your shift lever to accurately change between gears. Any looseness will be greatly exaggerated in your shift lever.
Others have posted here complaining about sloppy shifting after losing their Roll Pin and replacing it with a small bolt. Don't do it.

- Thu Dec 02, 2010 3:12 am #225540 So...the reason everybody is talking about rollpins now is because when you remove your old rack and put the new one in, you need to drop the shift linkage and stabilizer bar as well as exhaust right before the cat. It is not bad if you have the proper pin punch...and its located under the little boot on the tranny at the linkage.

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- Thu Dec 02, 2010 3:57 am #225547 If you use a bolt that is the same size as the pin than you shouldnt have any "slop". Honda uses that pin for ease of assembly at the plant, not because its the only thing that can fill the hole.

- Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:18 am #225862

You gotta get the subframe with the rack too...or it won't fit

umm no u dont.. look it up.. IM doing a manual Non power sterring swap into mines.. everyhting is the same except for the oil port and lines from the power sterring..

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[chrono404]

- Sat Dec 04, 2010 2:04 am #225866

If you use a bolt that is the same size as the pin than you shouldnt have any "slop". Honda uses that pin for ease of assembly at the plant, not because its the only thing that can fill the hole.

Ease of assembly?

So putting in a Spring Pin thats infamous for being a "Bitch" and then a spring held clip that goes over it to keep it in place, then a rubber cover that stops dirt and misc crap from getting in your transmission is easier then putting a bolt with a nut on it?

Your logic doesn't make since. Your reasoning for using a Bolt is for ease of use. If honda cared about just ease of assembly they would have used a bolt, They used the bitch pin as it does its job damn well.

If you have a 1/4" Punch and a Decent Hammer the bitch pin is easy to work with. 3-4 Swings and its out. I have a harder time with the Exhaust bolts/springs then I do with the so called "bitch pin" personally.

I would never recommend anyone to ever replace their roll/spring/bitch pin with a Bolt. Just put the bitch pin back in place, put the oem spring cover so it doesn't come out and its rubber cover back on. Otherwise dont be surprised in 9-16 months when you have transmission issues from dirt and grit getting into your transmission.

The Correct Information the OP wanted has been posted.

2017 Chevy BoltEV DD |2001 Honda CRV SE

- Sat Dec 04, 2010 3:21 pm #225935

You gotta get the subframe with the rack too...or it won't fit

umm no u dont.. look it up.. IM doing a manual Non power sterring swap into mines.. everyhting is the same except for the oil port and lines from the power sterring..

Feel free to question my replies, except when you don't know what you are talking about! When taking a power rack out of an ex to put a skinny manual rack from a dx, the passenger side holes are wrong for the bracket to fit. Obviously you are the one who needs to do more research on the matter...50200-SR3-H50 is the power subframe, 50200-SR3-C00 is the manual subframe. I just did the real swap from a real power to a real manual 2 months ago. We post so others get good info...not checking your fellow posters knowledge...do YOUR research before pointing fingers at other posters.

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- Sun Dec 05, 2010 1:31 am #226010 Well if it helps in March when the weather starts to warm back up some I'm going to do the rack swap and the 5 speed swap and I'm going to make write ups on both so good it'll be infamous and eternally used and loved! So be on the look out!

PS - I know there are some write ups out there but in my opinion they leave alot of stuff unanswered.

- Sun Dec 05, 2010 7:14 pm #226168 Yes crono, Its a bitch to REMOVE, not put in. Its easy for them to instsall it at the factory since they just have to tap it in and push a cover over, its an easy assembly. . . Is that not logical? That japanese engineer doesnt care what a "DIY Tranny guru" is doing to it after it leaves the assembly plant, let alone how your going to get it out. If a roll pin is that critical then why is a push on clip the only thing keeps it from dropping out? And as far as i know, you dont have to move that dust boot on the transmission to get to the roll pin.

- Sun Dec 05, 2010 7:32 pm #226172 The manual rack is skinnier and Will still fit, The only thing you have to do is add extra rubber between the bracket and rack on the passenger side so it doesnt move. I did this with my sedan and it works fine, theres no need to change the whole subframe.

- Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:18 pm #226183 Some people might be OK with matchsticks and bubblegum holding their cars together, but most people on this forum want to do the job right, safe, and without parts-whoring if at all possible.

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- Mon Dec 06, 2010 4:41 am #226230 The only thing that is between the passenger side metal strap on either the power and manual steering is a rubber bushing. How is adding another 1/4 inch of rubber unsafe? let alone a "matchstick and bubblegum" repair?[/quote]

[chrono404]

- Mon Dec 06, 2010 5:15 am #226237 Locked Thread as the Original Question has been answered and it looks like its easy for it to go into Hater tech spam.

2017 Chevy BoltEV DD |2001 Honda CRV SE