Civic EG

I am going to be swapping my rear drums on my 1992 civic hatch dx for rear disc of and 98 integra. I have read that I need a new prop valve, Master cylinder and a brake booster from a 92 civic hatch si. When I look up the part numbers the Prop valve and master cylinder are the same...So do I only need the brake booster? also what e-brake cable will I need? Any thing else I missed that I should know about would be great. i have searched all morning but haven't really got direct answers. I'm ok doing the swap, just more or less need a parts list. Thank you

Searched all morning? hmmmmm.

you dont NEED new prop valve etc if your only doing the rears. If you do the fronts also. It should be changed.

If you decieded to swap them, you should swap all of the parts, not just the booster.

Yes you need different e-brake cables. Just take them off of the doner car. Drum lines and disc e-brake lines are different.

Required parts list -
Everything on the rear trailing arm...or just take the whole trailing arm from the intergra. Plus the e-brake lines.

Optional(but still recommended) parts- Valve, booster, master cylinder.

You NEVER need to swap the booster and the master cylinder to Integra parts. At the very most you can get a Si 15/16 master cylinder. Unlike the Integra 1 inch master cylinder, it will bold directly to your stock booster.

It helps to understand how master cylinders actually work.

I agree with everything else VegasCivic said.

^ x3 they aren't needed but I would suggest the prop valve and 15/16th MC. I drove without the P valve and MC for a year and the car still worked but on the track (Road America 4 mile road track) the brakes got pissed off. Obviously there are more factors involved than just those two, like the boiling temp of the fluid, calipers and pads but without changing those items I felt a better response with the 15/16 MC and Pvalve.

Just about everything you listed is a good idea to swap over in order to get that proper balanced front /rear grip and stop.

fuck the booster
get a bigger master cylinder due to pedal height and pedal effort.
get the proportioning valve due to rear wheel lock-up and brake fluid temp.
get the correct e-brake cables.


coming from an ASE master tech/platinum honda tech

I have rear disc brakes and have never locked the rears, and have not changed the valve or cylinder.

If you went to the large master wouldn't it cause your front brakes to lock more unless you had the larger front brakes as well?

you don't have to worry as much about rear lock-up if you live in a dry, warm climate. If you live or drive where there is snow, it makes a large difference to get the correct proportioning valve. and I never mentioned anything about front brake lock-up btw. It's a good idea not to try to re-invent the wheel! the engineers for Honda are smarter then me and most likley smarter then anyone here. Just saying, if you want balanced braking and proper wear of the pads (front to rear) do it right.


I am also ASE Master Certified.....BTW

realmendriveteal wrote:dry, warm climate.

I think I have that in Vegas

Master cylinder has absolutely no effect on brake proportioning.

Improper brake proportioning is a problem no matter what the driving conditions are.