Civic EG

No chassis damage, All cosmetic. 1200 what do you guys think?

eh... offer 1k

The Front is Rebuildable.
If it has a Clear title(no totaled/rebuilt title) and you get it for 1000, Its a good buy.

It would be a good project car.
A New Rad Support, Fenders, Hood, Bumper, Lights and your set

The engine and trans are in perfect condition everything runs it just has the cosmetics its a 95. I was thinking if I got new corners and all the light housings from password or a junk yard and go to certifit for the front clip and hood. How hard to you think this would be "D.I.Y"

Ive totaled up the cost for everything.

188.00 for "JDM spec" eg fenders From password.
750.00 after shipping charges for eg nose cut with yellow fogs and corners.
1000.00 for the car itself.

I think thats a pretty good build. for a good price.

Sounds Pretty resonable. If you dont mind doing the work you self you will get a good deal on it. Most EG Civics around here at ATLEAST $2k+

1-10 ten being the hardest. How tough do you think this would be?

if you are positive that it has NO frame damage

id offer 700 because

Junk yard parts
core support 100$
headlights (pair) 75$
fenders (pair) 100$
hood 150$
front bumper 75$
corner lights 20$

grand total 520 (pricing is from my area Junk yard FYI so prices may vary)

how many miles? is there any rust on the rear 1/4's? is it a cx or dx? If you can get the parts for cheap or already have them around then i'd prob do it of the rest of the car checks out good.

What I am curious to know is how skilled do you have to be to do this DIY?

teal_dx wrote:how many miles? is there any rust on the rear 1/4's? is it a cx or dx? If you can get the parts for cheap or already have them around then i'd prob do it of the rest of the car checks out good.

looks like a CX/ VX


its not that hard its all really simple line up the fenders with the holes and hand tighten the bolts until they line up. the front core support might need help work. because of welding etc..

FLAGATOR727 wrote:What I am curious to know is how skilled do you have to be to do this DIY?

I have no experiance, I had to do the same to my car after I crashed it. Taking the front rad support is the hardest part, it's spot welded on and takes time to remove each weld. If you do go ahead and buy don't rush it. It dosn't take alot of effort to get the front off, but does take time. I personally used a chisel and hammer to not damage the bodywork. You could also use a angle grinder but be careful.
After you weld your new front end on (rad support) make sure you cover your welds with something, such as underseal. Otherwise your welds will rust.

I personally would offer $800 for the car. Any more and I would walk. Also when buying, check the rear quater pannels for rust. Dosnt matter about the front fenders as you would be replacing them anyway.

I noticed that the drivers side fender looks really battered. I would also take a look under it to see if the frame work is dammaged. Straightening that out is a bitch.

Good luck on the choice. Also good find

SlipCivic wrote:

FLAGATOR727 wrote:What I am curious to know is how skilled do you have to be to do this DIY?

I have no experiance, I had to do the same to my car after I crashed it. Taking the front rad support is the hardest part, it's spot welded on and takes time to remove each weld. If you do go ahead and buy don't rush it. It dosn't take alot of effort to get the front off, but does take time. I personally used a chisel and hammer to not damage the bodywork. You could also use a angle grinder but be careful.
After you weld your new front end on (rad support) make sure you cover your welds with something, such as underseal. Otherwise your welds will rust.

I personally would offer $800 for the car. Any more and I would walk. Also when buying, check the rear quater pannels for rust. Dosnt matter about the front fenders as you would be replacing them anyway.

I noticed that the drivers side fender looks really battered. I would also take a look under it to see if the frame work is dammaged. Straightening that out is a bitch.

Good luck on the choice. Also good find

Thanks for all of the great tips and help man.

FLAGATOR727 wrote:


No chassis damage, All cosmetic. 1200 what do you guys think?

Your hood, fenders, headlights, turn signals, and bumper are going to be misaligned with uneven gaps. If you can live with that then go for it.

That was one of the reasons why I did a chassis swap.

If your doing this on your own and havent done it before the hardest part is gonna be the spot welding on the radiator support....right now I have my whole front end done but it doesnt line up great because I need to swap the rad support but I am gonna wait for a welder to do it right....also remember if you dont get all OEM parts you will have small gaps/not perfect lines....but you can do the work yourself....I am brand new to this game and I rate it about a 7 for me to do if I had to do it alone...it gets really hard if you dont have the tools and garage to do it in....but it can be done....

IMO I would lowball at 750 and try to take it for less than 1000...there is gonna be alot of work to do....hopefully you have a DD cuz it will be out of comission for awhile...

Also from my experience you may want to check the brakes on the driver side...My EG had about the same damage and after I fixed it she pulled left during hard breaking...then again it was an excuse for me to upgrade to the GSR brakes....hahaha...

Good luck!