*Help* Removing Brake Lines From Proportioning Valve

Technical Topics specific to the Hatchback body - NOT where you post pics/build specs of your car.
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*Help* Removing Brake Lines From Proportioning Valve

By SloCivic
- Wed Jun 06, 2012 4:48 am #307473 Hey everyone, I don't post much on here, I just read up on a bunch of info. I am in the middle of a complete restoration of my hatch and am in the middle of a wire tuck/shave ect, I just pulled my motor yesterday.

I am having difficulties removing the hardline brakelines coming off the prop valve. I am nervous on rounding off the nuts.

I was thinking of soaking them in PB and hoping for the best. I know that you have to use a 10mm line wrench IIRC. :?

I just plan to remove these lines, paint my engine bay while they are out of the way and then Re-paint the hardlines black and then re-attach.

any tips/pointers for simplistic removal will be greatly appreciated..

Thanks in advanced civic-eg.com

-Ben
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By teal_dx
- Wed Jun 06, 2012 4:07 pm #307506 If they begin to round, put the wrench down and try a pair of vise grips. Set them as tight as you can. You might put some jaw marks on the sides of the nut but that's better than stripping them.

All this is after a good PB blaster soak, of course.
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By brandoff88
- Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:32 am #307600
suspendedHatch wrote:FLARE NUT WRENCH or don't even attempt it!


yeah i didnt listen to the flare nut wrench idea and guess what? I STRIPPED THAT SHIT! please when someone gives advice listen to them
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By Ecc0
- Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:07 am #307603 Junk the lines, if you cut them short enough to get a socket over them.

First completely remove the prop valve from the car with the cut lines attached then either hammer on a smaller socket and take them off that way or put the pipe end into a vice and turn the prop valve and remove them that way.

If your doing a wire tuck and flush why put old lines back in? IMHO they look crappy and not direct so either make up new hard lines or as I've done go full braided throughout even the rear lines then you can colour code to match your build better.
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By brandoff88
- Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:37 am #307607
Ecc0 wrote:Junk the lines, if you cut them short enough to get a socket over them.

First completely remove the prop valve from the car with the cut lines attached then either hammer on a smaller socket and take them off that way or put the pipe end into a vice and turn the prop valve and remove them that way.

If your doing a wire tuck and flush why put old lines back in? IMHO they look crappy and not direct so either make up new hard lines or as I've done go full braided throughout even the rear lines then you can colour code to match your build better.


x2 little more spendy but alot easier to work with also
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By Ecc0
- Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:44 am #307611 It didn't cost me that much to do.

If you need to buy a decent pipe bender and a pipe flare tool plus ends and new copper pipe and then the hassle of making them it worked out cheaper and easier to go full braided.

For my coupe tot cost including fuel line with inline filter was £190 ish

By SloCivic
- Thu Jun 07, 2012 4:02 pm #307624 thank you everyone for you input, its nice to go on a forum where people actually help you and dont bash you. (*cough hondatech*)

I am trying to get this car on the road within the next two weeks since it has been out of commission since it spun a bearing in January. :x For now im just going to re-use the old lines. Full brakeline tuck in the future. Thanks for all the advice though. Ill be sure to use the right tools.

Thanks Civic-EG.

-Ben.
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