- Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:13 am
#94512
do i need the 40/40 prop valve to do my rear disk brake conversion if my eg is not abs?? let me know thanks
- Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:05 am
#94521
no, but it will help
- Fri Feb 06, 2009 8:33 pm
#94612
If you keep your original front brakes, then no. If you swap all four corners, then definitely YES. Otherwise you will lock them up at every quick stop.
You can get it from a 94+ non ABS teg, or a Del Sol, EX, or Si that has rear discs. You can also get it from a 90-93 Integra but I don't recommend it because the mounting bracket is different. I was able to swap the brackets but you might mess something up when you take the prop valve apart. I didn't feel good about it at the time but I've had no problems in the year since then.
You can get it from a 94+ non ABS teg, or a Del Sol, EX, or Si that has rear discs. You can also get it from a 90-93 Integra but I don't recommend it because the mounting bracket is different. I was able to swap the brackets but you might mess something up when you take the prop valve apart. I didn't feel good about it at the time but I've had no problems in the year since then.
- Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:16 pm
#94616
i swapped out my prop valve when i did my rear disc conversion, there has been a few times where i have needed to stop quickly and glad i did it...
my brakes are about 100% better with the bigger MC/BB combo and the prop valve....
i guess you don't NEED too but it will probably pay off in the long run
my brakes are about 100% better with the bigger MC/BB combo and the prop valve....
i guess you don't NEED too but it will probably pay off in the long run
- Sat Feb 07, 2009 1:50 am
#94666
if you can find one for cheap, might as well do it.
1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300
- Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:07 am
#94671
Not true - im still running the original prop valve for rear drums and now have 282mm twinpots at the front and rear discs - fronts will lock if you really try but the rears have NEVER locked. The rear calipers are so weak there's no chance they'll lock the wheels.
suspendedHatch wrote:If you keep your original front brakes, then no. If you swap all four corners, then definitely YES. Otherwise you will lock them up at every quick stop.
Not true - im still running the original prop valve for rear drums and now have 282mm twinpots at the front and rear discs - fronts will lock if you really try but the rears have NEVER locked. The rear calipers are so weak there's no chance they'll lock the wheels.
- Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:37 pm
#95556
282 twinpots... I said if you keep the fronts stock.
On second thought; its the fronts that lock up, not the backs. It's been a long time since I thought about it. Drum brakes actually produce more braking force than discs. Prop valves from rear drum cars are more biased frontward than prop valves from rear disc cars.
Rest assured that if you keep the original prop valve after you swap the rear AND front brakes, you're going to have the problem I experienced. Some dumb lady is going to jump in front of you right before the stop and you're going to slide.
I didn't have this problem when I only swapped the rear drums for discs. It wasn't until I swapped the fronts for the larger Integra fronts that I noticed a large DECREASE in braking. Changing to the Integra prop valve solved the problem. It made such a big improvement that I went ahead and installed an adjustable prop valve like this one:
Unfortunately they are made with standard size fittings and adapters from that to our metrics are virtually impossible to find (don't use brass!). So you will need to cut and reflare your brake lines. But it's worth it! Dial in as much rear bias as you can until the rears lock up before the fronts, then dial it back to the front slightly. Do your testing on a gravel road so you don't brake your axle like I did.
You actually T your front lines to the master cylinder so they get maximum force. Then you install the adjustable prop valve in the rear lines so you can vary the rear pressure.
Master cylinder size increase has absolutely no effect on your braking distance. It only affects pedal effort and feel. The stock 13/16 is fine, a 15/16 from a 90 Civic EX or Wagon AWD is recommended. You don't need anything bigger unless you go to larger, multiple pot calipers. The 1" isn't that much bigger than the 15/16, and considering all that is involved in the swap (brake booster, bending lines etc), it just isn't justifiable.
Graham wrote:suspendedHatch wrote:If you keep your original front brakes, then no. If you swap all four corners, then definitely YES. Otherwise you will lock them up at every quick stop.
Not true - im still running the original prop valve for rear drums and now have 282mm twinpots at the front and rear discs - fronts will lock if you really try but the rears have NEVER locked. The rear calipers are so weak there's no chance they'll lock the wheels.
282 twinpots... I said if you keep the fronts stock.
On second thought; its the fronts that lock up, not the backs. It's been a long time since I thought about it. Drum brakes actually produce more braking force than discs. Prop valves from rear drum cars are more biased frontward than prop valves from rear disc cars.
Rest assured that if you keep the original prop valve after you swap the rear AND front brakes, you're going to have the problem I experienced. Some dumb lady is going to jump in front of you right before the stop and you're going to slide.
I didn't have this problem when I only swapped the rear drums for discs. It wasn't until I swapped the fronts for the larger Integra fronts that I noticed a large DECREASE in braking. Changing to the Integra prop valve solved the problem. It made such a big improvement that I went ahead and installed an adjustable prop valve like this one:
Unfortunately they are made with standard size fittings and adapters from that to our metrics are virtually impossible to find (don't use brass!). So you will need to cut and reflare your brake lines. But it's worth it! Dial in as much rear bias as you can until the rears lock up before the fronts, then dial it back to the front slightly. Do your testing on a gravel road so you don't brake your axle like I did.
You actually T your front lines to the master cylinder so they get maximum force. Then you install the adjustable prop valve in the rear lines so you can vary the rear pressure.
Master cylinder size increase has absolutely no effect on your braking distance. It only affects pedal effort and feel. The stock 13/16 is fine, a 15/16 from a 90 Civic EX or Wagon AWD is recommended. You don't need anything bigger unless you go to larger, multiple pot calipers. The 1" isn't that much bigger than the 15/16, and considering all that is involved in the swap (brake booster, bending lines etc), it just isn't justifiable.
- Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:01 pm
#95722
You said if you swap all 4 corners (which i have) and keep the original prop valve that you will lock your brakes easily, thats what i was debating as i wouldn't say that was the case
suspendedHatch wrote:Graham wrote:suspendedHatch wrote:If you keep your original front brakes, then no. If you swap all four corners, then definitely YES. Otherwise you will lock them up at every quick stop.
Not true - im still running the original prop valve for rear drums and now have 282mm twinpots at the front and rear discs - fronts will lock if you really try but the rears have NEVER locked. The rear calipers are so weak there's no chance they'll lock the wheels.
282 twinpots... I said if you keep the fronts stock.
You said if you swap all 4 corners (which i have) and keep the original prop valve that you will lock your brakes easily, thats what i was debating as i wouldn't say that was the case