Civic EG

I know this is an old thread but I still am not sure about something.

I did my conversion using 99 Civic Si parts. Rear trailer arms, calipers and e-brake cables off of a 92 Si hatch. My car is a 92 Civic CX hatch. Everything fits and bolts up. I bled the brakes but I can only get a little pressure on the peddle. Not enough to stop the car? When the car is off, I get full pressure though and the brake peddle pumps all the way up. What am I missing?

Thanks.

Have you driven the car with the swap mine was kinda doing the same thing its just that without a four disc matter cylinder the braking pressure is different so the pedal feels squishy my pedal feels soft at first but stops just the same after about three inches of travel but I do plan on trying to upgrade to an integra master cylinder in the future

Brandonthesmith wrote:Have you driven the car with the swap mine was kinda doing the same thing its just that without a four disc matter cylinder the braking pressure is different so the pedal feels squishy my pedal feels soft at first but stops just the same after about three inches of travel but I do plan on trying to upgrade to an integra master cylinder in the future

Yes, I drove the car and it wouldn't stop. I eventually bled the brakes again and got a little more stopping power not enough for me to have confidence in the brakes.

The thread on here and on Hondaswap.com led me to a 91 4 door Civic EX MC. This a direct bolt on so I replaced my 13/16 MC with this 15/16 MC and wow!!!! What a difference!!! The pedal engages right away and the stopping power is much much better!!!!

This might be a silly question but one I am unsure of.

I have a wrecked '94 teg LS with ABS. I am thinking of swapping the rear discs into my non ABS '95 Civic DX. Will this work?

I may also swap the fronts in the future as they are a bit bigger than the civic (I think), but will an ABS setup work in a non ABS car?

My main concern is the rear swap at the moment though. I'm also unsure what I am going to do with the teg lol.

Thanks.

So if I have understood this thread correctly, the best thing would be to get the m/c and prop valve off the teggy that the swap is coming from along with the ebrake cables if available right?

h4tCh wrote:So if I have understood this thread correctly, the best thing would be to get the m/c and prop valve off the teggy that the swap is coming from along with the ebrake cables if available right?

only if its non abs. gs teggy has the one we need. ls has abs and it wont work. or 92-95 civic si/ or ex with disk and no abs. you can buy aftermarket ones for like 40 bucks. the one i want is a nice chrome one. i cant remember brand but I heard a lot of people run them. or get one from a parts store. it is a main part in your stoping power and i recommend replacing with new but thats just me.

The abs only applies to the prop valve and not the other parts though right?

h4tCh wrote:The abs only applies to the prop valve and not the other parts though right?

yup yup. i have a ls disk conversion im doing. an mine is from a ls teggy with abs. just have to remove the sensors from the hub. its like 5 10mm bolts and they come off. super easy. everything else is direct bolt in. prop valve is the only thing that has to be from non abs rear disk car.

Cool, thanks. If the prop valve on the donor car is a 2 to 4 and has 40/40 stamped on it then it should be fine correct? Doesn't the abs one have a 2 to 2?

h4tCh wrote:Cool, thanks. If the prop valve on the donor car is a 2 to 4 and has 40/40 stamped on it then it should be fine correct? Doesn't the abs one have a 2 to 2?

i think so. not sure if they are all stamped. but if it has the big metal unit with lines and yellow/orange connectors on the passanger side by the shock tower than its abs and wont work.

Thanks for your help.

h4tCh wrote:Thanks for your help.

N/P

This might be a stupid question but do you actually need to change the trailing arms to fit a disk brake system ?

No, you don't. It's just easier since most people don't have torx bits and because the bolts on the hub are often seized and easy to strip at the junkyard.

If you swap only the hubs, you will still need the ebrake cables from the donor car.

So I could basically buy the disk brake parts from a dealer and just add a ebrake cable.

Good to know. Since I just changed the bearings on my trailing arms I might do this instead.

Plus, it really is hard to find complete trailing arms here in Germany