Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Lines & more- OEM and Aftermarket
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By egsedanguy
#348435 Ok as some of you know i swaped my rear drums for 95 teggy disk brakes and swaped my front for 92 ex w/abs 10.3. All is working great minus the fact I still need a prop valve. I know I cant use a abs one and already know what one I will get. My question tho is!!!!!

Can I use the 92 civic ex w/abs MC and Booster? If so Is it better than my DX stock setup. If no what would be the best setup to use?

I want my brakes to work as best as possible. I dont wanna do a run and loose brakes at 100+mph and end up in a ditch or worse. I search the interwebs but I never get a strait idea. Most people are running stock fronts with upgraded disk rear. So any Help would be awsome.
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By ODST_EG
#348440 As long as the Ex mc is 15/16 your golden. best bet is to get one off a 91 civic ex 4 dr. The prop valve has to be 4040 and that can come off a 90 integra or 92 civic SI with the rear discs or the gsr. just remember 15/16 for MC and 4040 for prop valve.

Also remember if you get the mc off an integra the ports are different so you will need the brake booster as well. so the EX u got just check if its 15/16 and if it is everything should be bolt on to ur converted civic. :thumb:

Imma be doing the swap as well this week hopefully if I find a driver side hub. I'll do the DIY detailed just in case. so be on the look out.
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By egsedanguy
#348445 thanks. Ok how do i tell the differance?
And ya I will order a new prop valve in a few weeks.If the ex mc did not work I was gonna get one from a 90 ex. Only 56$ for a reman plus a core. But If my ex is a good one then im gonna get it. plus its free and thats what i want. :thumb:
User avatar
By egsedanguy
#348446 I found this and it says 92-95 ex is 1in
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=928201

1"

46100-SM4-G54
- 91-93 Accord EX/SE (All)
- 94 Accord DX (2-Door ABS)
- 94 Accord LX (Wagon)
- 94-95 Accord DX (4-Door ABS)
- 94-96 Accord LX (2-Door ABS)
- 94-97 Accord LX (4-Door ABS)
- 94-97 Accord EX (All)
- 95-97 Accord LX V6 (4-Door)
- 95-97 Odyssey

46100-SR3-833
- 92-95 Civic EX ABS (4-DR)------------------------this is what I have?
- 94-95 Civic EX ABS (2-DR)
- 94 Civic Si ABS (3-DR)
- 94-95 Civic LX ABS (4-DR)
- 95-97 del Sol ABS

46100-ST7-L51
- 98-01 Integra LS/GSR/Type-R (All)

46100-SW5-A11
- 97 Integra Type-R
- 97-98 TL
User avatar
By ODST_EG
#348453 I think the 1" is fine to use to. I believe the integra is a 1" as well but do your homework on that cuz im not 100% accurate.
User avatar
By egsedanguy
#348454 1in would be the best setup. I wanted to see if somone can confirm that the 92 ex mc & booster w/ abs will work on a non abs platform. The link I gave is the only one that actually has good info of sizes. But I have never done this befor so I want to know that im doing it correctly. If mine is for sure a 1in then thats perfect. But I have found other sites that say its not 1in that its smaller. Thats why im asking here to see if somone can give some solid info. But from some other people I know the mc and booster will work with 1 line needing to have an adapter to bolt to the mc. So know I just need somone to confirm the mc on the 92 ex is 1in or not.
User avatar
By ODST_EG
#348456
egsedanguy wrote:1in would be the best setup. I wanted to see if somone can confirm that the 92 ex mc & booster w/ abs will work on a non abs platform. The link I gave is the only one that actually has good info of sizes. But I have never done this befor so I want to know that im doing it correctly. If mine is for sure a 1in then thats perfect. But I have found other sites that say its not 1in that its smaller. Thats why im asking here to see if somone can give some solid info. But from some other people I know the mc and booster will work with 1 line needing to have an adapter to bolt to the mc. So know I just need somone to confirm the mc on the 92 ex is 1in or not.


I just went to the junkyard right after writing you earlier and actually found a 95 ex 4 dr with ABS but the Master cylinder was 15/16.... I snagged it for my conversion hahha. so all you gotta do is look on the m/c and its labeled on there what size it is. I found an integra with the 1 inch, reason I knew it was a 1" is cuz theres a giant 1 on it. Same thing with the 15/16 EX m/c I found. just gotta look at it bro.

if you wanna go 1" get one off the Integra but you need the brake booster as well.

the ABS platform will work, however you need to delete the ABS from the hubs cuz you aren't using it on ur soon to be converted car right? I think theres a guy on here in the DIY section that explains why it works.
User avatar
By egsedanguy
#348469 ok cool. I didnt see a size on it. Might be a aftermarket one or somthing. Ill check agin when I have time to go out to the parts car.

And I already have done the swap of the brakes. The abs is only a sensor thats atatched to the hubs. just unblot the sensor and the wire and thats it. the abs has no affect on a non abs car. Its easy. The rear is the same thing. my whole brake swap came from abs cars.


Like I said, I just need to know if the mc was ok to use on a non abs car.


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User avatar
By suspendedHatch
#348473 Your opinions may change when you understand the role of each part in the system. Only the calipers and rotors affect stopping performance.

1" master cylinder is no better than 15/16". It's a difference of .07". All a bigger master cylinder does is push more fluid, equating to less pedal travel. I prefer to have slightly more pedal travel and more granularity of braking with the 15/16 over the 1, but again, it's a .07 difference. (Granted this is diameter and not length, but still.)

Besides that it isn't NOT worth replacing the booster, getting an adapter fitting for your brake line, and bending the lines so that you can say you have a 1 inch master cylinder.

The booster uses vacuum to assist you in pushing the pedal down. It doesn't affect braking performance. In fact, on race cars, it's often removed.

Get a 15/16 master cylinder off a 90-91 Civic EX sedan or AWD wagon. It's a direct bolt-on.

Get a prop valve from a non ABS 94-01 Integra, Civic or Del Sol with rear disc brakes. Don't get one from a DA or you'll have to take it apart to swap the brackets. The brackets are integral to the prop valve and not simply bolted to the outside.

Don't mess up your rear alignment by unbolting the compensator arms from the body. I prefer to swap only the rear hubs and ebrake cables, but most people don't have torx bits and often have trouble breaking them loose. If you're going to have the whole trailing arms out, replace your rear main bushings.

Bleed the brakes pass rear, drivers front, drivers rear, pass front, not any other way that anyone else tells you unless you want to be bleeding it all night and going back to the store for more fluid.
User avatar
By egsedanguy
#348474
suspendedHatch wrote:Your opinions may change when you understand the role of each part in the system. Only the calipers and rotors affect stopping performance.

1" master cylinder is no better than 15/16". It's a difference of .07". All a bigger master cylinder does is push more fluid, equating to less pedal travel. I prefer to have slightly more pedal travel and more granularity of braking with the 15/16 over the 1, but again, it's a .07 difference. (Granted this is diameter and not length, but still.)

Besides that it isn't NOT worth replacing the booster, getting an adapter fitting for your brake line, and bending the lines so that you can say you have a 1 inch master cylinder.

The booster uses vacuum to assist you in pushing the pedal down. It doesn't affect braking performance. In fact, on race cars, it's often removed.

Get a 15/16 master cylinder off a 90-91 Civic EX sedan or AWD wagon. It's a direct bolt-on.

Get a prop valve from a non ABS 94-01 Integra, Civic or Del Sol with rear disc brakes. Don't get one from a DA or you'll have to take it apart to swap the brackets. The brackets are integral to the prop valve and not simply bolted to the outside.

Don't mess up your rear alignment by unbolting the compensator arms from the body. I prefer to swap only the rear hubs and ebrake cables, but most people don't have torx bits and often have trouble breaking them loose. If you're going to have the whole trailing arms out, replace your rear main bushings.

Bleed the brakes pass rear, drivers front, drivers rear, pass front, not any other way that anyone else tells you unless you want to be bleeding it all night and going back to the store for more fluid.



the reason I want to change it is that the pedal goes to far down and is a little to soft for me. Thats why I want to upgrade the mc.I never said was gonna make it stop better. Never really said exactly why I want it. And buying a fitting and moving the line is not a big deal. Im getting all the parts free so why would I run out and buy one? I think everyone is miss understanding my question. All I wanteded to know if the mc will work for me and if it was better than the one I had.

Also I have done the swap already and its fine. I know how to do all that stuff. I replaced the trailing arm bushings. New rotors and pads. And bleed the brakes in sequence and everythings fine. Thanks for the input. I got It from here. Will swap everything this weekend.
By sentientprogram
#351102 I know this is an old post, but II recently swapped my DX hatch 13/16 MC for a 1991 15/16 MC.

Its a direct bold in and it works.
Just thought id contribute a lil for any of you wonodering if this will work or not.