Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Lines & more- OEM and Aftermarket
By austenjanzen
#343357 hey everyone!

So I am not sure if there is a write-up I didn't see one on the DIY section but I am human and could have missed it lol

So here is the basic run down, I blew up my stock rubber brake line and bought a set of Stainless Steel Russell brake lines

start off by soaking down all the nuts and bolts using WD-40 or some other form of lubricant that you will be using so they don't give you trouble and strip or break off!

here is a list of basic tools you are going to need
10mm flare wrench
10mm wrench
12mm wrench
14mm wrench
ratchet
10mm socket
12mm socket
extension
flat head screw driver
and 11/16 flare wrench
WD-40

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first you are going to start with taking the screw off of the caliper, this is using 14mm wrench (or ratchet and socket) (also this is not the bleeder screw)

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once that is off you are going to take off the 2 bolts holding the line, using the 10mm wrench (also please not my stock brake lines are relocated due to how low my car is and the offset of the wheels and function n form coilovers)

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there is also a ring that goes around your strut but like I stated mine is relocated, you will be using the 12mm wrench I believe it is

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once both of those are off you are able to move over to where it connects to the hardline, here you will need the 10mm flare wrench! please go out and get an actual flare wrench or you could wreck the nut and cost yourself a lot of money!

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NOTE: once this bolt is loose it will begin to drip brake fluid would be a good idea to have a small bucket around to save yourself from a mess afterwards!

once this flare nut is completely loose the brake line is held on by a small clip, using the flathead screwdriver or a pair of pilers pull it out and your brake line is free!

and putting the new line in is straight forward just re do these steps!

as well for the rears straight forward but I have some pics!

10mm flare wrench to loosen the flare nut from the brake line, located above and behind the trailing arm

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then loosen off the brake line holder from behind the caliper, it is a 12mm wrench but if for some reason it is stripped or wont come off you can however still remove it! there is a bracket held on by 2 10mm bolts that can come off instead if you have troubles (shown just below the brake line)

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then get your 12mm wrench and loosen off the bolt onto the caliper, please note this is not the bleeder screw!

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and WALAH brake line is removed and follow these steps and brake lines will be replaced!

also after removing your brake lines always remember to bleed your system! without bleeding your system your brakes will not work!

BE SAFE WHEN ALWAYS WORKING ON BRAKES IT IS THE MOST IMORTANT SAFETY FEATURE IN ANY CAR

always make sure your car is on even ground with jack stands to prevent the car falling onto you and most likely killing you!

as well I went with Russell SS lines you will notice I didn't use the 11/16 wrench this Is because on the Russell SS lines there is a nut on there which is 11//16 and I used it to keep ahold of the line while tightening the flare nut back up!
By austenjanzen
#343358 finished look! please note my brake lines are relocated! due to low vehicle and offset wheels

the only reason I had this problem was my wheel was rubbing on the brake line while I was fully cranked!

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also you will see black stuff sprayed it is undercoating! if doing any grinding and welding leaving bare metal use some sort of undercoating or gravel guard and protect the bare metal!
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By lalo
#343361 Good write up this should be in the DIY section. :thumb:
By austenjanzen
#343365 thanks


I made it just for that reason, and well I had to replace mine lol