Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Lines & more- OEM and Aftermarket
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By ghskid06
#226797 Wasnt sure where to stick this, so im sorry if its in the wrong section. Also sorry if there is already a diy on this, but i searched and found none.

The pics are on my EK, but its the same exact thing on EG's. I have already done this once on my EG this time though i decided to make a DIY.
How to replace wheel studs on an eg chasis. How to replace lug nut bolts.

Tools Needed
-17mm, 19mm sockets
-ratchet
-jack
-angle grinder (can be found for like 20-25 bucks almost anywhere)
--cutting wheel, grinding wheel
-possible propane or oxy/aceteline torch (for if your rotor is stuck)
-possible rubber mallet

These are cell pics so they arent the greatest, esp once it got dark. Please read whole diy before pulling your car apart : )
-First you wanna take your wheel off, if you dont know how to do this, stop reading now and take your car to a shop.

-Next step is removing the caliper and rotor. Some rotors have screws holding them in place, remove those first. (two of them on the front face of the rotor, can see them in the pic). If your like me and they are stuck you can drill them out because they arent actually necessary. Or you can try to screw them out. The rotar may also be oxidized to the hub, if its on there good then you can heat the center part of the rotor (not the hub or axel because you could warp it) with your torch and hit the back of the rotor with a rubber malet until it comes loose.
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Propane torch
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There are two bolts that hold the caliper on, one on top and one on bottom. location can be seen in these photos.
Top
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Bottom
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After removing the caliper bolts you can zip tie it up out of the way or set it on the control arm and it should stay. No need to disconect the brake line, so dont do that.

-Now is when your going to need you angle grinder. As you may know the hub is bulky and prevents you from being able to hammer the studs strait out. Hammer the stud until it looks like the below picture.
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Angle grinder
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Take your grinder and with a cutting wheel attached cut off the front of the stud about 1/4 inch out from the face of the hub.
(the cut looks to be closer to the hub because i was to lazy to change from a grinding wheel to a cutting wheel, the grinding wheel is wider).
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Now you want to cut off the wide end on the back of the stud with your grinder.
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-This should give you enough clearance to finish hammering out the old stud. Once the tip of the stud become flush with the hub youll need to place something against it (i just use the caliper bolts because they are the perfect size, but if you are worried about mushrooming your bolts then use something else).
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Remaing stud after removal
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-Now its time to put your new studs in. The hub is still in the way so there are a couple tricks to getting them in. Dont try to hammer them in at an angle beacause youll probably screw up your threads, making all your work meaningless.
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Depending on your set up, you need to do a little extra grinding at this point. I did not on this car, but did on my black ex. But well get to that step in a moment. First your going to take your new stud and place it loosely the WRONG direction in the hub. This makes a nice little holder for you to grind. (or you can put it in a vise someplace, i was working outside so i didnt have one). On the back of your stud grind it flat on one side.
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This gives you more clearance, place the stud the correct way into its hole with the flat side against the hub and slide it through. Then you take your open ended lug nut and tighten it down on the stud until the back side of the stud is against the back of the hub.
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Heres where you may need to do some extra grinding, if you have ground your stud as shown in the pic above and your still not getting enough clearance, you can take your grinding wheel and grind a channel in your hub to give the extra clearance needed. Id recomend if you have to do this to do it between the calliper bolt holes. Just take a little at a time until you have the clearance needed. No as long as you do it right its not going to cause any problems. By do it right i mean do not cut through the solid part of the support (which would be far past what needs ground for the proper clearance). If you need a picture of that i can provide one. If your not comfortable doing this then youll have to rent yourself a puller and probably a slide hammer.
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-Just assemble everything in reverse order and your finished.

Dont hold me responsible for your mistakes. This is an easy way to replace studs quickly and without having to rent a puller every time.
Last edited by ghskid06 on Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:52 pm, edited 10 times in total.
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By ghskid06
#226798 any questions ask.

EDIT: dont forget you sometimes need to place washers on the stud before tightening it down with the lug nut. Sometimes the threads arent long anough to allow you to tighten the stud down completely before you run out of threads.
Last edited by ghskid06 on Wed Mar 16, 2011 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By tatan1106eg
#244112 Nice Info, I actually have one of my studs broken and I took everything apart and when I got to take the broken stud out, It hit the Hub and I was stock right there. Now I know how to do it. Thanks!
User avatar
By ghskid06
#244256
tatan1106eg wrote:Nice Info, I actually have one of my studs broken and I took everything apart and when I got to take the broken stud out, It hit the Hub and I was stock right there. Now I know how to do it. Thanks!


No problem. Just remember that even with grinding the stud flat on one side you might still have to go into your hub some with a grinder. Just go a little at a time until you can get the new stud in without beating it too hard. If you do that you should be good to go.

My civic hub was ground between the caliper mounts for about 6 months and was even wrecked into a ditch all without a single problem. Those ground hubs are now on my del sol. bring on the broken studs, lol. It takes me about 10 minutes to change one now.