HELP i has no BRAKES and i donno why

Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Lines & more- OEM and Aftermarket
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HELP i has no BRAKES and i donno why

By Benj
- Thu Sep 16, 2010 3:28 am #213918 ok so I bled the brakes again with the two man method. No air. The pedal is hard with the engine off, gets softer when the engine starts.took the car for a drive, no brakes at all, bled them again, went for another drive... FML no brakes. so tonight being the 4th time i have bled them still no difference...

car: 93 civic hatch
1. rear disc swap with pro valve
2. new power slot rotors all around
3. new hawk pads all around
4 all new calipers all the way around
5 new master
6. new braided steel lines all 4 corners

ok so i did the two man method ( all air out of lines) and the pedal gets nice and stiff fire up the car and soft pedal we get... WTF!!! so we have done this 4 times used 3 liters of dot 3and still the same shit... im getting pissed

and of we did the rr lr fr fl


Help me please... i wanna drive my car
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By asianrob
- Thu Sep 16, 2010 3:59 am #213924 did you bleed the master cylinder before install?

adjust your Ebrake cables accordingly it might help you out also.
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By ron_kimi
- Thu Sep 16, 2010 5:11 am #213935 Did you clean the new rotors? Try to clean or sand the rotors there might be oil on it. Hope this helps.
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By Benj
- Thu Sep 16, 2010 5:21 am #213939 umm the new power slot rotors come with an enamel coating that you dotn have to wipe off.. talked to the power slot brake rep from my work... ( work for an auto parts company)


I think its either the booster or the check valve cuz the like form the booster to the check valve is rock hard... im lost and donno
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By asianrob
- Thu Sep 16, 2010 8:28 am #213967 when i slapped on my rear disc i ran into a similar problem. adjusting it the ebrake cables i guess tighten up the rear brakes enough to even out the pressure on all the brakes. sounds weird but id adjust it. i changed out my master and brake thinking that would fix it before adjusting it my ebrake cables and it felt the same after replacing it.
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By Benj
- Mon Sep 20, 2010 4:46 am #214541 rob i will try that for now... but i figured i would add that ichanged booster and no still no change... so maybe its the plunger in the booster that is over adjusted and when you install the master it all ready applies the brakes so that when i try to put the brakes on it bottoms out the piston in the master to apply the brakes... that do you guys think... am i shooting for the stars here?? do i sound crazy cuz i wanna drive this thing????
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By asianrob
- Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:10 am #214543
Benj wrote:rob i will try that for now... but i figured i would add that ichanged booster and no still no change... so maybe its the plunger in the booster that is over adjusted and when you install the master it all ready applies the brakes so that when i try to put the brakes on it bottoms out the piston in the master to apply the brakes... that do you guys think... am i shooting for the stars here?? do i sound crazy cuz i wanna drive this thing????



hmm it might be? i have no clue i have never ran into a plunger bottoming out. i dont think theres that much room for adjusment on the booster?

adjust your ebrake. and see where that gets you. its the easiest to do and only takes 1 person to do it.

By MG6
- Thu Oct 28, 2010 6:39 am #220418 Hey Benj, any status update on this issue you have?
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By That One Dude
- Thu Oct 28, 2010 7:20 pm #220517 Did you tap on the calipers while bleeding them? It's common practice in aviation to beat the snot out of the master cylinders and brake assemblies after having installed new assemblies. Air tends to get stuck in little knooks that need a little coaxing to get out.
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By si-b16
- Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:33 pm #220570 Possibly Could be one of the braided brake lines has popped, happend to my friends civic an the brake pedal went straight to the floor n felt really soft like it wasnt gripping at all...
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By Eg6H2D
- Fri Oct 29, 2010 12:11 am #220577 Do you have rear drums or rear caliper. if drums. check the cylinder inside the drum and see if it's dry. if not. u need to replace em..
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By Benj
- Fri Nov 12, 2010 3:23 am #222631 ok so update is that i swapped the ppv (proportioning valve) with one from a eg with rear disc's so a 3040, and then bled them again... and still nothing...

no leaks put it in the driveway and bleed the brakes no other spots then where the calipers are, no air coming out of the lines, straight steams of brake fluid..
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By Greasedmonkey
- Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:26 am #222650 eg with rear disc came with a 4040 valve. unless its an abs model, then you would have to get an abs prop valve for rear disc.

i changed my prop valve and mc at the same time and it still took me 3 hours before i got all the air out. also make sure the mc isgetting the correct amount of preesure when you press the brake pedal. when you swap them out, you need to adjust the arm coming from the booster for proper fitment. there is a tool for this to. i borrowed hondas tool when i worked there. never gave it back.
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By Benj
- Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:48 am #222655
Greasedmonkey wrote:eg with rear disc came with a 4040 valve. unless its an abs model, then you would have to get an abs prop valve for rear disc.

i changed my prop valve and mc at the same time and it still took me 3 hours before i got all the air out. also make sure the mc isgetting the correct amount of preesure when you press the brake pedal. when you swap them out, you need to adjust the arm coming from the booster for proper fitment. there is a tool for this to. i borrowed hondas tool when i worked there. never gave it back.



fuck me sideways...

umm its a oe replacement 13/16ths mc and a oe booster for a eg.... so i guess im still on the hunt for the right prop valve. i told them at the wrecker that i wanted to see the car so that way i could make sure it was right... so keep bleeding the system you say?
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