Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Lines & more- OEM and Aftermarket
User avatar
By civic_man09
#138111 ok....soo a couple days ago i changed my front driver and pass. side brake hoses...after i got the new ones on and bled the brakes, the brakes are still squishy, and failing miserably...Since then i have drove it and bled the brakes 3 more times hoping its just air somewhere in my brakes....theres nooo brake fluid leaking anywhere....what puzzles me is when i pump them up like im going to start bleeding them, i loose all pressure in my system...when your under the hood listening to it, when my brakes fail you can hear a swishing sound coming from either the master cylinder, or the booster....before i changed the hoses my brakes worked flawlessly, as far as stopping power...is their something secret ive missed, or is my master cylinder or booster all of a sudden bad??
thanks...
User avatar
By teal_dx
#138118 try slamming the brake pedal as hard as you can when bleeding the brakes. air bubbles can hide out in master cylinders sometimes. I had this happen before when bleeding clutch lines.
User avatar
By Greasedmonkey
#138129 you will need someone helping you. one pumping and one at the corners. Do it like this

Have the bleeder tight. pump the brakes 3-5 times, hold then let the pressure out. tighten up, pump 3-5 times, hold and release again. Do this 2 or 3 times at each corner starting from the furthest away from the master cylinder. so Right rear, left rear front right, front left. it may take a few times. I know what your going through. Mine did the same thing after replacing the MC and PP. just take your time and do it right.
By jdm jim
#138131 try bleeding it from the master cyl first. have someone pump up the brakes and crack the lines on the master,just like a bleeder, and tighten back up. ive seen masters go bad when the pedal goes too the floor. if you still cant get a pedal, pull the master off the booster and look for fluid back there.
User avatar
By civic_man09
#138148
Greasedmonkey Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 8:34 am Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

you will need someone helping you. one pumping and one at the corners. Do it like this

Have the bleeder tight. pump the brakes 3-5 times, hold then let the pressure out. tighten up, pump 3-5 times, hold and release again. Do this 2 or 3 times at each corner starting from the furthest away from the master cylinder. so Right rear, left rear front right, front left. it may take a few times. I know what your going through. Mine did the same thing after replacing the MC and PP. just take your time and do it right.
....

Thats how ive been bleeding my brakes..ill try slamming the brake pedal like teal said and try it again...let me ask you all another question.. If my master cylinder or booster is bad, would i still have some brakes...its hard for me to stop for a red light, but if i have to make a sudden STOP my brakes work great...
User avatar
By Greasedmonkey
#138166 Were they working fine before you changed the lines?


Only reason you bleed the MC is when you put a new one on. You bench bleed it to get the air out of it.
User avatar
By civic_man09
#138439 soo...after making a couple calls, i have found a mc...Im not sure if it'll fit..its off a cx...my car has abs...Is the abs master cylinder, and the non-abs master cylinder the same?

Yes they were working perfect before i changed the lines...its driving me batty trying to figure out if its air in the lines, mc is bad, and all that stuff...Is their any tips on how to figure out if my master cylinder is bad? If it is possible that my booster is bad, is their a way to test it? Is their any other advise you all can possibly give me about bleeding the lines different if their is probably air somewhere in my system further away from the calipers?
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By Ajax1989
#138475 your master dont matter, its the abs unit that matters

but what kinda lines did u change the old ones out wit?

and check around the brake booster for any leaks
and any paint that is bubbled up
User avatar
By BLaCkSiLo
#139137
civic_man09 wrote:soo...after making a couple calls, i have found a mc...Im not sure if it'll fit..its off a cx...my car has abs...Is the abs master cylinder, and the non-abs master cylinder the same?

Yes they were working perfect before i changed the lines...its driving me batty trying to figure out if its air in the lines, mc is bad, and all that stuff...Is their any tips on how to figure out if my master cylinder is bad? If it is possible that my booster is bad, is their a way to test it? Is their any other advise you all can possibly give me about bleeding the lines different if their is probably air somewhere in my system further away from the calipers?


if your car has ABS, the cx master won't fit..it's most likely a 13/16 cylinder whereas the ABS is 15/16" so no dice there, plus the actual booster should be bigger and have a different stud pattern.

did you replace the lines with stainless steel ones? or factory rubber ones? if they were rubber i would check them for holes/leaks/abnormalities...if SS, perhaps what you are feeling is the better response given since they work when you stomp it? :?

GL man...
User avatar
By civic_man09
#139289 I replaced the rubber brake hoses with rubber brake hoses(the hoses that go from the steel lines to the caliper).....ive checked for abnormalities, leakes, etc. around the caliper, every placed i have touched, and even around the master and booster.....no leaks...i am positive that its not better response, because i can feel the pedal bleed off if i hold it for a couple seconds... i have been noticing here lately that the brakes are starting to act more normally...when i press the brakes they actually hold better now...im not sure if they are just setting in or what....i also noticed that on cool mornings they work flawlessly. no bleed-off...as the day goes on and warms up, they start to kind of slack off and i can start to feel the pedal bleed-off again. what can cause this??
User avatar
By Ajax1989
#139348
civic_man09 wrote:I replaced the rubber brake hoses with rubber brake hoses(the hoses that go from the steel lines to the caliper).....ive checked for abnormalities, leakes, etc. around the caliper, every placed i have touched, and even around the master and booster.....no leaks...i am positive that its not better response, because i can feel the pedal bleed off if i hold it for a couple seconds... i have been noticing here lately that the brakes are starting to act more normally...when i press the brakes they actually hold better now...im not sure if they are just setting in or what....i also noticed that on cool mornings they work flawlessly. no bleed-off...as the day goes on and warms up, they start to kind of slack off and i can start to feel the pedal bleed-off again. what can cause this??


this is brake fade, its happens when you are in stop and go suitauations
ie. traffic, lots of stop signs or lights ect.

:thumb:
User avatar
By BLaCkSiLo
#139509
94_jdm_ferio wrote:
civic_man09 wrote:I replaced the rubber brake hoses with rubber brake hoses(the hoses that go from the steel lines to the caliper).....ive checked for abnormalities, leakes, etc. around the caliper, every placed i have touched, and even around the master and booster.....no leaks...i am positive that its not better response, because i can feel the pedal bleed off if i hold it for a couple seconds... i have been noticing here lately that the brakes are starting to act more normally...when i press the brakes they actually hold better now...im not sure if they are just setting in or what....i also noticed that on cool mornings they work flawlessly. no bleed-off...as the day goes on and warms up, they start to kind of slack off and i can start to feel the pedal bleed-off again. what can cause this??


this is brake fade, its happens when you are in stop and go suitauations
ie. traffic, lots of stop signs or lights ect.

:thumb:


brake fade shouldn't happen unless you are really pushing it hard, stopping from high speeds a lot of times...you know, i would check your proportioning valve, mine was leaking because a fitting was not tight... so check all 6 of the fittings on the prop valve on the firewall