- Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:04 pm
#63511
I recently finished swapping a '00 Integra steering rack into my 1995 civic 2dr EX w/ABS, and since information was hard to find myself I decided to make a small guide from my experience for those who wish to do the same.
The main reason why I swapped the rack out was because I had a bad seal and had to fill up on p/s fluid practically everyday. As you can imagine, it sucked. So I chose to upgrade to an integra rack which has a shorter steering ratio allowing for quicker turns and less effort from full lock to full lock. on a scale from 0-5 I would rate the difficulty about a 2.5
*Tools*
-Ratchet and Socket set
-Wrenches
-Flare nut wrenches(optional but very helpful)
-Breaker Bar(optional)
-Assortment of punches
-Ball joint popper(optional)
*Parts*
This list is from doing work on my car and I cant guarantee that it will be the same for all cars, but my guess is it would be similar.
-Universal coupler/joint from a 94-01 integra to connect the steering column to your new steering rack
(This is vital and your new rack will not hook up without it)
-New Ball Joints(optional)
-Integra high pressure steering line(*OPTIONAL- I originally bought this part because I thought it was necessary but I learned found that the high pressure line and one return line will fit on the new rack with a little bit of manuvering but im sure new lines could make things easier)
*removing the rack*
Loosen the lug nuts. underneath the dash there is a plastic cover over the steering column held by two clips, pull off clips and remove cover. This should expose the stock coupler, there are two 10mm bolts in the coupler, remove both.
This is a picture of the the coupler removed from under the dash near the fire wall and the two shafts, from the column and the steering rack exposed.
Jack up the front of the car, undo the shift linkage and catalytic converter, this will give you more room to swing the sub frame. There are four bolts holding up the rack all are very visable and easy to access. There are two on the drivers side near the steering rack's shaft and two on the passenger side holding a small bracket, remove all four.
This pictures shows the car with the cat removed and the shift linkage undone. you can also see the bracket under the ABS unit to the left and the two bolts to the right.
Remove the steering rack's ball joints on both sides, on the drivers side remove the bolt connecting the control arm to the shock, and the ball joint connecting the control arm to the hub assembly.
Next, There are five big bolts connecting the sub frame to the body on both sides of the car near where the sway bar is mounted, removing these will give clearance for the steering rack to slide out the driver's side. After removing the bolts support the transmission, don't worry about the subframe falling because it is attached to the tranny via mount.
This picture shows the five holes in the sub frame where the five bolts will be. you will have to imagine looking at this upside down under your car. On the left side there is one below the steering boot, and four above and to the left of it.
This picture shows what the sub frame would do if you detached the tranny mount, but were not doing that so dont worry. Imagine it still attached to the tranny by the mount and you will be able to rock it in a see saw motion. you can see the steering rack's braket on the left and the two bolts on the right next to the input shaft. this is what your new rack will look like installed.
Remove the three power steering lines, rotate the rack so that the input shaft is facing forward, push down on the sub frame on the driver's side and with a little bit of swearing and shaking you should be able to pull the rack out.
*Installation*
Installation is practically the reversal of removal with the exception of:
Brake lines- there were three stock lines, one high pressure and two return. On my new rack there was only two inlets, so...here's what I did, at the reservoir i pulled one of the rubber return lines away from the hard line and plugged it with a bolt, then at the other end remove the the end of the hard line from the rubber hose. Works fine no leaks! That leaves you with your one high pressure and one return both which should fit in the new rack with a little effort forcing the hard line into position.
in this picture it shows the difference between the old rack(on top) and the integra rack(bottom). you can see the three inlets for the steering lines in the old rack to the left of the input shaft and notice how the new one only has two.
Other than that, slide the new rack in, bolt it back together, attach your new rack to the steering column with your new steering coupler/joint, get an alignment and your done!
Sorry for the lack of decent pictures I decided to make a post after I was finished
thanks to Al's Import Nut for the advice and pictues
The main reason why I swapped the rack out was because I had a bad seal and had to fill up on p/s fluid practically everyday. As you can imagine, it sucked. So I chose to upgrade to an integra rack which has a shorter steering ratio allowing for quicker turns and less effort from full lock to full lock. on a scale from 0-5 I would rate the difficulty about a 2.5
*Tools*
-Ratchet and Socket set
-Wrenches
-Flare nut wrenches(optional but very helpful)
-Breaker Bar(optional)
-Assortment of punches
-Ball joint popper(optional)
*Parts*
This list is from doing work on my car and I cant guarantee that it will be the same for all cars, but my guess is it would be similar.
-Universal coupler/joint from a 94-01 integra to connect the steering column to your new steering rack
(This is vital and your new rack will not hook up without it)
-New Ball Joints(optional)
-Integra high pressure steering line(*OPTIONAL- I originally bought this part because I thought it was necessary but I learned found that the high pressure line and one return line will fit on the new rack with a little bit of manuvering but im sure new lines could make things easier)
*removing the rack*
Loosen the lug nuts. underneath the dash there is a plastic cover over the steering column held by two clips, pull off clips and remove cover. This should expose the stock coupler, there are two 10mm bolts in the coupler, remove both.
This is a picture of the the coupler removed from under the dash near the fire wall and the two shafts, from the column and the steering rack exposed.
Jack up the front of the car, undo the shift linkage and catalytic converter, this will give you more room to swing the sub frame. There are four bolts holding up the rack all are very visable and easy to access. There are two on the drivers side near the steering rack's shaft and two on the passenger side holding a small bracket, remove all four.
This pictures shows the car with the cat removed and the shift linkage undone. you can also see the bracket under the ABS unit to the left and the two bolts to the right.
Remove the steering rack's ball joints on both sides, on the drivers side remove the bolt connecting the control arm to the shock, and the ball joint connecting the control arm to the hub assembly.
Next, There are five big bolts connecting the sub frame to the body on both sides of the car near where the sway bar is mounted, removing these will give clearance for the steering rack to slide out the driver's side. After removing the bolts support the transmission, don't worry about the subframe falling because it is attached to the tranny via mount.
This picture shows the five holes in the sub frame where the five bolts will be. you will have to imagine looking at this upside down under your car. On the left side there is one below the steering boot, and four above and to the left of it.
This picture shows what the sub frame would do if you detached the tranny mount, but were not doing that so dont worry. Imagine it still attached to the tranny by the mount and you will be able to rock it in a see saw motion. you can see the steering rack's braket on the left and the two bolts on the right next to the input shaft. this is what your new rack will look like installed.
Remove the three power steering lines, rotate the rack so that the input shaft is facing forward, push down on the sub frame on the driver's side and with a little bit of swearing and shaking you should be able to pull the rack out.
*Installation*
Installation is practically the reversal of removal with the exception of:
Brake lines- there were three stock lines, one high pressure and two return. On my new rack there was only two inlets, so...here's what I did, at the reservoir i pulled one of the rubber return lines away from the hard line and plugged it with a bolt, then at the other end remove the the end of the hard line from the rubber hose. Works fine no leaks! That leaves you with your one high pressure and one return both which should fit in the new rack with a little effort forcing the hard line into position.
in this picture it shows the difference between the old rack(on top) and the integra rack(bottom). you can see the three inlets for the steering lines in the old rack to the left of the input shaft and notice how the new one only has two.
Other than that, slide the new rack in, bolt it back together, attach your new rack to the steering column with your new steering coupler/joint, get an alignment and your done!
Sorry for the lack of decent pictures I decided to make a post after I was finished
thanks to Al's Import Nut for the advice and pictues
Last edited by kbdavis08 on Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:15 pm, edited 13 times in total.