Springs, Struts, Swaybars, Bushings, Tower Braces & more
By kbdavis08
#63511 I recently finished swapping a '00 Integra steering rack into my 1995 civic 2dr EX w/ABS, and since information was hard to find myself I decided to make a small guide from my experience for those who wish to do the same.
The main reason why I swapped the rack out was because I had a bad seal and had to fill up on p/s fluid practically everyday. As you can imagine, it sucked. So I chose to upgrade to an integra rack which has a shorter steering ratio allowing for quicker turns and less effort from full lock to full lock. on a scale from 0-5 I would rate the difficulty about a 2.5

*Tools*
-Ratchet and Socket set
-Wrenches
-Flare nut wrenches(optional but very helpful)
-Breaker Bar(optional)
-Assortment of punches
-Ball joint popper(optional)

*Parts*
This list is from doing work on my car and I cant guarantee that it will be the same for all cars, but my guess is it would be similar.

-Universal coupler/joint from a 94-01 integra to connect the steering column to your new steering rack
(This is vital and your new rack will not hook up without it)

-New Ball Joints(optional)

-Integra high pressure steering line(*OPTIONAL- I originally bought this part because I thought it was necessary but I learned found that the high pressure line and one return line will fit on the new rack with a little bit of manuvering but im sure new lines could make things easier)

*removing the rack*
Loosen the lug nuts. underneath the dash there is a plastic cover over the steering column held by two clips, pull off clips and remove cover. This should expose the stock coupler, there are two 10mm bolts in the coupler, remove both.

This is a picture of the the coupler removed from under the dash near the fire wall and the two shafts, from the column and the steering rack exposed.
Image

Jack up the front of the car, undo the shift linkage and catalytic converter, this will give you more room to swing the sub frame. There are four bolts holding up the rack all are very visable and easy to access. There are two on the drivers side near the steering rack's shaft and two on the passenger side holding a small bracket, remove all four.

This pictures shows the car with the cat removed and the shift linkage undone. you can also see the bracket under the ABS unit to the left and the two bolts to the right.
Image

Remove the steering rack's ball joints on both sides, on the drivers side remove the bolt connecting the control arm to the shock, and the ball joint connecting the control arm to the hub assembly.
Next, There are five big bolts connecting the sub frame to the body on both sides of the car near where the sway bar is mounted, removing these will give clearance for the steering rack to slide out the driver's side. After removing the bolts support the transmission, don't worry about the subframe falling because it is attached to the tranny via mount.

This picture shows the five holes in the sub frame where the five bolts will be. you will have to imagine looking at this upside down under your car. On the left side there is one below the steering boot, and four above and to the left of it.
Image

This picture shows what the sub frame would do if you detached the tranny mount, but were not doing that so dont worry. Imagine it still attached to the tranny by the mount and you will be able to rock it in a see saw motion. you can see the steering rack's braket on the left and the two bolts on the right next to the input shaft. this is what your new rack will look like installed.
Image

Remove the three power steering lines, rotate the rack so that the input shaft is facing forward, push down on the sub frame on the driver's side and with a little bit of swearing and shaking you should be able to pull the rack out.

*Installation*
Installation is practically the reversal of removal with the exception of:

Brake lines- there were three stock lines, one high pressure and two return. On my new rack there was only two inlets, so...here's what I did, at the reservoir i pulled one of the rubber return lines away from the hard line and plugged it with a bolt, then at the other end remove the the end of the hard line from the rubber hose. Works fine no leaks! That leaves you with your one high pressure and one return both which should fit in the new rack with a little effort forcing the hard line into position.

in this picture it shows the difference between the old rack(on top) and the integra rack(bottom). you can see the three inlets for the steering lines in the old rack to the left of the input shaft and notice how the new one only has two.
Image

Other than that, slide the new rack in, bolt it back together, attach your new rack to the steering column with your new steering coupler/joint, get an alignment and your done!

Sorry for the lack of decent pictures I decided to make a post after I was finished
thanks to Al's Import Nut for the advice and pictues
Last edited by kbdavis08 on Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:15 pm, edited 13 times in total.
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By Greasedmonkey
#63518 Pics would have made this a KILLER how to. Its still very helpful though.
By kbdavis08
#63652 thanks, I added a couple picture links from AL's Import Nut website which is also another great source of information on this swap, I couldnt figure out how to get the actual picture to show....
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By Faded_Milano
#63654 highlight the link to the picture then click the Img button under the subject bar
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By Greasedmonkey
#63702 I hate how you have to have the motor out and drop the cross member to do this. thats the only thing stopping me from doing this right now. I guess once i get the LS outta the race car ill do it on that one. It would benifit from the quicker ratio.
By kbdavis08
#63796 Do you have to remove the engine with an LS swap? I figured it might be the same as what I did, just undo the bolts on the ends of the sub frame and push it down cause it will still be attached to the tranny and its sort of like a see saw motion. unless there is not enough room, it would be sick with a swap though true
By kbdavis08
#63797 thanks for the tip by the way faded
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By teal_dx
#63916
Greasedmonkey wrote:I hate how you have to have the motor out and drop the cross member to do this. thats the only thing stopping me from doing this right now. I guess once i get the LS outta the race car ill do it on that one. It would benifit from the quicker ratio.


Really you only need to remove the rear mount right? so would it be possible to do it with the motor in? The 2 side mounts will hold it in place.
By kbdavis08
#63937 I didnt remove my engine and I didnt unattach any mounts, you leave the tranny mount attached, and just undo the 5 bolts to each side on the sub frame and it gives you enough clearance to remove the steering rack. No engine removal or mount removal required. :) (p.s. the picture with the sub frame and tranny mount removed is only an example)
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By realmendriveteal
#114334 I just got done doing this swap. It's not fun at all!!!! Remeber that the interga rack has larger splines on the end of the steering coupler. You NEED an integra coupler to pull of the swap. You mentioned replacing w/ a new one but I'm just adding WHY. I didn't remove the motor, just removed the rear mount bolts (3).
By cjw_89
#269733 I need to replace the hard lines on an integra i am sellin thursday but i dont know the size of the line. On low motion they say 3/8'' i will reuse m fittings if i have to but i need to know the size of the hard lines like asap. Thanks for looking
By importnut
#313861 I appreciate seeing people post my work to forums but I would like the credit for it.

The original poster did mention that he pulled it from my site, but I wasn't credited in the DIY page.

I'm always happy to see that people have found my work and benefited from it.

-Alex
By importnut
#313862
importnut wrote:I appreciate seeing people post my work to forums but I would like the credit for it.

The original poster did mention that he pulled it from my site, but I wasn't credited in the DIY page.

I'm always happy to see that people have found my work and benefited from it.

-Alex


Also, for more of my Honda specific work, check out this page:
http://importnut.net/honda.htm
By Insyte
#332812 Great guide!