Springs, Struts, Swaybars, Bushings, Tower Braces & more
By AutoXCivic
#217659 All right I'm done spending big money on my car this year. I have my suspension build pretty much planned out, but I'd like a little input (especially from the AutoXers here).

Anyway planned setup is as follows (keep in mind when offering suggestions this is a DD/AutoX setup ... might hit the drag strip a few times just to see how it does)

PIC select coilovers 10kf/8kr
-The springs are the same and as such can be swapped front to rear. Should I run the heavier springs in the rear?

GSR/Type R F/R sway bars (24mmF/22mmR)
-I will be getting the Beaks kit for the rear, so I'm not worried about fitment issues there. The question here is ... if I just get the proper mounting hardware (mounting brackets, endlinks, etc.) will the front bolt right up? Or do I need Integra FLCAs to make that work?

Custom traction bar from my tuner.
-Not sure that there are any suggestions that can be offered as far as this component is concerned, but if there is any input to be had ... I welcome it.
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By That One Dude
#217962 If you're going to use the 22mm rear swaybar, I'd recommend a full subframe brace, not just the Beaks one that simply reinforces the bolt holes. That just moves the stress points to a little further out on the stock steel. ASR is the way to go, IMHO. I'm about to buy one, myself.
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By Greasedmonkey
#218007
AutoXCivic wrote:All right I'm done spending big money on my car this year. I have my suspension build pretty much planned out, but I'd like a little input (especially from the AutoXers here).

Anyway planned setup is as follows (keep in mind when offering suggestions this is a DD/AutoX setup ... might hit the drag strip a few times just to see how it does)

PIC select coilovers 10kf/8kr
-The springs are the same and as such can be swapped front to rear. Should I run the heavier springs in the rear?

GSR/Type R F/R sway bars (24mmF/22mmR)
-I will be getting the Beaks kit for the rear, so I'm not worried about fitment issues there. The question here is ... if I just get the proper mounting hardware (mounting brackets, endlinks, etc.) will the front bolt right up? Or do I need Integra FLCAs to make that work?

Custom traction bar from my tuner.
-Not sure that there are any suggestions that can be offered as far as this component is concerned, but if there is any input to be had ... I welcome it.



PIC coilovers are great! I would suggest 12/8 instead of 10/8. 10k is the rate they put on civics for most coilovers. It isnt really meant for aggresive driving.

For the sway bars, if you have stock one leave it alone, if not just get a stock ex/si front bar. dont really need bigger than a 21-22 mm bar up front. Rear bar wise get either the 21-22mm ITR bar. With the stiffer springs and a rear bar you should be more neutral. It will also help to rotate the car with throttle control.

For mounting the rear bar, I would suggest the ASR brace and not the beaks. I know beaks was the first to do it, but ASR did it better. Function7 even has one out now.

You will not need a traction bar all at. They are not really designed for RR/AutoX. More for drag. Since it will be mainly a dd/autox car dont waste money on it.

You didnt mention wheels or tires and those are really the most important parts. Get some nice light wheels and some DOT legal race tires. IE Azenis and such.


Autox/rr is what I am going to be doing with my car as well. I can tell you right now that with a good struts valved for your spring rates you dont even really need sway bars. I did one event in a friends ITR swapped EK and it rotated great, no horrid body roll and would even dog leg it. No front or rear sway bar at all.
By AutoXCivic
#218016
Greasedmonkey wrote:
AutoXCivic wrote:All right I'm done spending big money on my car this year. I have my suspension build pretty much planned out, but I'd like a little input (especially from the AutoXers here).

Anyway planned setup is as follows (keep in mind when offering suggestions this is a DD/AutoX setup ... might hit the drag strip a few times just to see how it does)

PIC select coilovers 10kf/8kr
-The springs are the same and as such can be swapped front to rear. Should I run the heavier springs in the rear?

GSR/Type R F/R sway bars (24mmF/22mmR)
-I will be getting the Beaks kit for the rear, so I'm not worried about fitment issues there. The question here is ... if I just get the proper mounting hardware (mounting brackets, endlinks, etc.) will the front bolt right up? Or do I need Integra FLCAs to make that work?

Custom traction bar from my tuner.
-Not sure that there are any suggestions that can be offered as far as this component is concerned, but if there is any input to be had ... I welcome it.



PIC coilovers are great! I would suggest 12/8 instead of 10/8. 10k is the rate they put on civics for most coilovers. It isnt really meant for aggresive driving.

For the sway bars, if you have stock one leave it alone, if not just get a stock ex/si front bar. dont really need bigger than a 21-22 mm bar up front. Rear bar wise get either the 21-22mm ITR bar. With the stiffer springs and a rear bar you should be more neutral. It will also help to rotate the car with throttle control.

For mounting the rear bar, I would suggest the ASR brace and not the beaks. I know beaks was the first to do it, but ASR did it better. Function7 even has one out now.

You will not need a traction bar all at. They are not really designed for RR/AutoX. More for drag. Since it will be mainly a dd/autox car dont waste money on it.

You didnt mention wheels or tires and those are really the most important parts. Get some nice light wheels and some DOT legal race tires. IE Azenis and such.


Autox/rr is what I am going to be doing with my car as well. I can tell you right now that with a good struts valved for your spring rates you dont even really need sway bars. I did one event in a friends ITR swapped EK and it rotated great, no horrid body roll and would even dog leg it. No front or rear sway bar at all.


I talked to Bob at RCAutoworks about the spring rates and he suggested sticking with the 10k/8k springs, he said they've had several people hit the track with those and they've been very happy. I'm planning on running the heavier springs in the back to help the car rotate. I'll look into the ASR kit as well. I've already got the stock front sway bar and an LS rear sway bar. I figured I would use the sway bar setup from what is still one of the best handling FWD cars ever built, which is why I decided to go with the GSR/Type R front and read sways. I was told that the traction bar can help with autox as well, having never driven a car with one I have no frame of reference, but I figure anything that will help me keep the wheels planted is a good thing..

As far as tires I'm going to be running Hoosiers, not the optimal size, but I'm working with the wheels I've got. Someone pointed me to a great site where I can get them cheap. Used but still usable (70% left on them).

I realize that with the right spring/strut combo a sway bar is not needed, but it is a DD so I don't want to use harsh enough spring rates to accomplish that.
User avatar
By Mordiiax
#218045 I got a friend that do real track racing in a Civic eg and they got a traction bar. Claims it do a far better job than any bushing ever could!

It made such a difference he says it is the second mod he would do after coilovers.
By AutoXCivic
#218303 Good info there. Looks like I'm going to invest in one.
By Danny_P
#220160 Hey I just want to say thanks for this post, iv just recently bought a F and R DC2 set of sway bars and was looking how to mount the rear bar.. Iv been told the asr brace is the way to go but look forward to the oppinion of greasedmonkey. Ill also tell you how I find it with some powerflex bushes installed to the roll bar link rods !
By Danny_P
#220162 Hey I just want to say thanks for this post, iv just recently bought a F and R DC2 set of sway bars and was looking how to mount the rear bar.. Iv been told the asr brace is the way to go but look forward to the oppinion of greasedmonkey. Ill also tell you how I find it with some powerflex bushes installed to the roll bar link rods !
By AutoXCivic
#221046 Been doing a little research and it seems that almost all of the tear out issues with then beaks kit were with the EK chassis and that beaks redesigned the bracing because of that and it is now no longer an issue. There are many people who have been using the beaks kit for 2+ years and have never had a problem.

That being said, the beaks kit still looks like it is the weakest of the bracing kits as it only reinforces the mounting points and not the entire subframe, however I think that is probably all you need to prevent tear out, and I've never heard of a subframe snapping (which I would think would be why you'd want to reinforce the entire thing) but that doesn't mean it's never happened.

I have a couple other options I am now considering as far as the setup. 24mm ASR setup in the rear, stock front sway bar and leave the heavier (10k) springs in the front. And grab some PIC RLCAs w/spherical bearings (yes I know this will give me a bumpier ride).

Or ...

Function 7 rear subframe brace and RLCAs w/spherical bearings. ITR F/R sway bar setup and do the 8kF/10kR spring setup.

Starting to think that I might consider going with higher spring rates, but I'm not sure yet ... I still have time to decide.
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By {ikon}EM1
#221050 ^^^^ id go with ur 2nd choice :thumb:
Reinforeing the rear end and using a lighter k load up front sounds good and heavier k load in the rear...
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By Greasedmonkey
#221121 function7 all day. i myself like stiffer rates. i have 12/9 on my hatch with just a stock front sway. rotates good. will be getting the itr 22mm rear bar though to help a bit more.
By AutoXCivic
#221139
Greasedmonkey wrote:function7 all day. i myself like stiffer rates. i have 12/9 on my hatch with just a stock front sway. rotates good. will be getting the itr 22mm rear bar though to help a bit more.


12k in the front? Interesting. From what I've seen running softer in the front is better because that way you can get the nose to dive and put more weight over the driving wheels ... thus getting more traction (which is why I was thinking of runnink 8kF/10kR spring rates). I probably will go with the Function 7 for bracing ... milled from a solid block of aluminum FTW.


Do you DD your hatch? and how bumpy is the ride? May have to go with the 12k/10k setup.
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By Greasedmonkey
#221218 i do daily it. its been a while since i have driven it, but i will be again soon. it felt great to me when i was driving it though. i do wish i had gotten a 10k for the rear now.
By AutoXCivic
#221243
Greasedmonkey wrote:i do daily it. its been a while since i have driven it, but i will be again soon. it felt great to me when i was driving it though. i do wish i had gotten a 10k for the rear now.


Well then maybe I'll go with a 12kf/10kr setup then. Same price as the 10k/8k so why not ... right? Still have plenty of time to decide, keep the input coming ... I loves to learn.