Springs, Struts, Swaybars, Bushings, Tower Braces & more
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By Gorveatt
#33223
LowTEC-Derbo wrote:
fresh eh2* wrote:
LowTEC-Derbo wrote:ahh yes. they are a good company. This was written prior to knowing any information. a friend of mine run the F2 and they feel better than his omnipowers :)

yeah, thats what ive herd. I was really close to get them but i was cheap and got the omni's :lol:


lol my friend had omnipowers and he spent 600 on F2 :P


Gah how did he spend $600 on the F2's? and are they the Type 1's or Type 2's?
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By LowTEC-Derbo
#33251 not sure. probably type 1s. but from what i can see the ones he has are adjustable 2way and has adjustable stiffness for dampening.
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By Gorveatt
#33257
LowTEC-Derbo wrote:not sure. probably type 1s. but from what i can see the ones he has are adjustable 2way and has adjustable stiffness for dampening.


Guess what i'm getting after the new year :thumb: ... Type II's :thumb:
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By Ej2-B16a
#35146 Great write up, but i didnt see any talking about sway bars, and struts

You can have the greatest coilovers out there, but without all the proper strut/sway/ tie bars and all that you wont get the full potential of the suspension :thumb:
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By Gorveatt
#35147 The reason you didn't se anything about strut bars or sway bars is cause they are not suspension, they are chassis stiffening components.
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By Ej2-B16a
#35153 I understand, but this topic is about helping you get good suspension OVER ALL. i guess?

I just wanted to point it out, But im sure we all knew that anyways :thumb:


edit* As much as they are not suspension, its still in a way related....
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By hatch_wanna_b
#38140 I can personally speak for the PIC Apex coilovers. I have 10k/8k spring rates. They are worth every dollar. And they have the best customer service ever.

:thumb: :thumb: for PIC Performance coilovers!
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By jmsplitfyre
#60013 Hey, I'm new here and I must say that this is the most informative spring/shock/coilover write-up I've read so far. Props to the Op.

I've been fishing for my own set-up and now I think I've decided to go with those KYB AGX/Tokico Whites + Skunk2 Non-adjustables. Or can anyone suggest any other spring that would give a 2"+ drop?

Thanks again, Op.! :thumb:
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By egferio95
#60578 great informative post for those who needed to know!
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By gotpakalolo
#60867 96-00 civic suspension setups can fit on a 92-95 civic sedan?
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By Greasedmonkey
#60882
gotpakalolo wrote:96-00 civic suspension setups can fit on a 92-95 civic sedan?


The rear shocks will not fit the LCA on the 92-95 civic. That is all that wont fit.


F2's were the other choice for me in coilovers when I was getting mine. I just got a great deal on the Ksports so I went with them. I got mine for $560 Shipped and they are just the same as D2 and the F2's. They even offer other spring rates. Not preselected like the PICs, but you can pick and choose what you want. I got 12k front and 9k rear. They also Offer revalving of the strut to help the stiffer rates.
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By zeppelin101
#80822 I'd like to add something if I may :)

There are other ways of improving handling and body roll which will not affect ride quality at all

Anti-roll bars are, in my opinion the single most easy thing you can do to tame body roll and still keep the same ride comfort.

There are many different sizes available both front and back so how do you know which to choose?

My own setup was chosen after some careful though... I wanted a very neutral / slightly oversteery on corner entry setup, so I picked up a stock VTi front roll bar (22mm IIRC) and a whiteline 20mm adjustable. This setup is perfect, some lift off oversteer to bring the back around (not too much though unless it's wet) and perfectly controlled the rest of the time.

With the adjustable one, the positions you can set make it act more like a 19mm or 21mm, while the actual bar thickness is 20mm. They work by changing how much leverage the suspension offers on the bar, shorter means stiffer, so less suspension movement for the swaybar to start doing its job.

So, how to pick? I can't remember the size of the stock VTi / Si roll bars off the top of my head, I believe it's in the region of 22mm up front and 16mm or so at the back. These will be a lot more understeery than my setup and I'd honestly recommend a VTi front bar with at least an 18mm rear bar minimum. Trust me, the handling will be transformed ;)

If you want a more track spec and heavy duty setup, check out the 24mm whiteline bar, or eibach make a 25mm I believe. Match that to at least a 20mm rear bar (22mm preferred). This will probably have a similar effect to what my setup does, only much more controlled and you should be cornering completely flat even in the tightest of turns.

I had the roll bars installed on their own just before I bought the Koni kit and honestly they make a HUGE difference. Remember that you're stiffening the chassis too as they contact the suspension and the subframe. Responsiveness is vastly improved, the feel of the car at both ends is superb and the car does precisely what you want, especially with the bit of lift off oversteer available to correct the naturally understeering front end.

They're cheap too :D Only downside is that at the back, you will need a subframe brace or a tie bar if you're buying a much larger sway bar than standard. With no bar the subframe doesn't carry that much load, but if you install a 18mm or 20mm bar at the back with no brace, you're running the risk of cracking the frame as you do run a much higher load across it with the bar there.

Hope that helps with anti roll bars a little :D
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By biretsu89
#80829 wow.. lots of info to remember.... cool :thumb:
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By LowTEC-Derbo
#95911 little late but on the topic of sway bars..

Remember this is a system of multiple components. Changing one component will affect the others. For instance, stock suspension will upgraded sway bars will allow your car to turn better but it will also put more work to the shocks and springs. This then will in turn put more work to your tires. Its a chain effect so take note that one component will affect the rest of the system.
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By zeppelin101
#96006 Not to mention a huge increase in chassis forces and the chance of subframe tearout if you don't brace the rear subframe properly.

The rear swaybar I have on mine is over 100% stiffer than a standard one... which mine didn't even come with so think of the extra force you're exerting through the chassis also... hence why improving chassis rigidity in any way you can is VERY desireable.

Ignore the people who say 'you won't feel any difference' because a bit of chassis strengthening goes a lot further than the cruisers of this world would have you believe.