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By teal_dx
#176484 If you have slop in your steering, hear a clunk from the front of your car, or have tire wear, it may be time for a new inner and/or outer tie rod end link.
The inner and outer tie rod end link your steering rack to the knuckle with the wheel of the car attached to it.

The inner is connected to the steering rack. The outer is connected to the knuckle. The inner & outer tie rod thread together and are adjustable so that the overall length of the two pieces may be increased or decreased. this is how Toe is adjusted in an alignment. A shorter length will mean more toe-out while a longer length will mean more toe-in.
Each tie rod has a ball joint on the end to allow pivoting between the knuckle and the steering rack due to suspension flex. These moving ball joints wear out eventually. If you ever see a car on the side of the road with both front wheels pointing opposite directions, that is most likely due to a neglected tie rod end snapping- more often the outer.

So if you notice any of the symptoms mentioned above, check for wheel play.
With the car on jack stands, grab the left and right sides of the tire and wiggle it as if you were trying to shimmy it off of the hub. If there's play, then you need to replace the inner and/or outer tie rod. (play from top to bottom is usually a ball joint - check upper and lower control arms. Play in all directions could be a very worn wheel bearing - you would hear this while driving)

I did this on my EK so there may be slight differences but the overall process is the same so I took pics...

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Put the front of your car on jack stands & remove wheels.

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The inner & outer tie rod can be seen in this pic. The white line is where they connect. The part to the inside of the line is the inner tie rod. The part on the outside of the line is the outer tie rod.

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You'll have to crack them loose. Grab them with vise grips or mine had recessed ares where a crescent wrench could slip over them.
The top wrench is on the nut, the bottom is on the outer tie rod.

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It took some PB blaster & some elbow grease to break the nut loose.

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Once the nut is loose, thread it up on the inner tie rod (toward the steering rack).

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You need to mark exactly where the outer tie rod is threaded onto the inner tie rod. You can count the threads showing and write it down. Or I just hit it with some paint to see what threads were showing.

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Old school 5 ball!

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To get the outer tie rod off, you'll need to remove the outer ball joint.
This castle nut on the bottom should have a cotter pin in it to keep it from coming loose - mine didnt! :shock:

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I've got these old school ball joint seperators which have only ever worked for me once. Normally they just tear the boot :thumbdown:
Today was not my lucky day...

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You can see grease from the torn boot. I had to end up hitting it out with a mallet which is bad for the ball joint. That's ok though because I am replacing the Inner and Outer tie rods and the outer has the ball joint.

There is a different type of puller similar to a steering wheel puller that is made for ball joints that would probably work better for civics.

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Outer tie rod is off.
Last edited by teal_dx on Sat Feb 20, 2010 3:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By teal_dx
#176515 Image
Moving on to the inner tie rod... first you need to remove the steering boot.
This is the outer clip.

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The inner is a metal CV boot type band.
Also disconnect the rubber breather hose.

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It's not worth the time to try to save it. Just snip it with some wire cutters and buy a new one.

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Take the not off the end. Now you can pull the boot off.

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This ball type joint has plenty of play and is the reason for replacing oth the inner and outer. (might as well do both while the car is apart and getting it aligned after.

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To loosen the inner tie rod, you'll need a bog wrench to fit over the outer portion of the ball joint. 1.25"

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Now the inner tie rod is removed and you're looking at the steering rack.


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Old vs New inner tie rod. Notice the special lock washer and how the old one had the clips broken off.

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The new washer locks into the end of the steering rack shaft.


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it's been a while since I did this... I believe that's power steering fluid I'm putting on the shaft to keep it lubed. The manual said to do it.

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And that's Blue Thread Lock on the threads where the inner tie rod goes into the steering rack shaft.

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Ready to install. thread it on by hand, then get your 1.25" wrench.

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EK's are a tight fit to reach through the subframe. Not sure if EG's have any more room.


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The inner tie rod is torqued down to specs. Notice that the washer is properly positioned in the grooves before you tighten.


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Now I put some grease on the steering rack shaft and end of the tie rod. Keeping it lubed will help the boot go on.


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Install the new metal band and hook up the vent tube.

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Install the outer boot clamp.

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The manual said to use anti-sieze lube on the threads.

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Now compare the old and new inner tie rods to see how far the outer tie rod needs to be threaded into. Make a mark or count the threads.


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New vs old outer tie rod.


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Thread the new nut on to where it needs to be.


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Then thread on the outer tie rod.
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By teal_dx
#176516 Image
The outer ball joint going back into the knuckle

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Thread on and torque the castle nut, then put the cotter pin through the hole in the bolt. Bend the pin back so it won't slide out. This will keep the bolt from coming loose.

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Now torque the nut & outer tie rod to spec.

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All done!

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Put the wheel on and go for a test drive around the block.
Turns out that the new parts had a different number of threads than the old ones, or i can't count. My car had MAJOR toe out and was pulling hard to the right.
After a couple of tries of loosening the nut and turning the outer tie rod further out on the threads of the inner tie rod, I got rid of the nasty toe out and the car felt straight as an arrow. I still took it in to get aligned the next day.
By MG6
#176531 Nice write up. Now I gotta find out if there is any wheel play.
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By Greasedmonkey
#176535 I hate you. I had this ready to go up. I just did this. Though I got an alignment after I did it. Which I would suggest no matter what.
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By ikon
#176726 where were u last week teal........ i needed this :lol: jk. the haynes manual sucks at this. good write up bud :thumb:
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By Greasedmonkey
#176733
teal_dx wrote::lol:
was there any difference between your EG and my EK?


not really. Looks the same to me.
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By teal_dx
#176774
ikon wrote:where were u last week teal........ i needed this :lol: jk. the haynes manual sucks at this.


I know! They had condensed all of this to about 1/3 of a page and No Pics! I have a Chiltons manual and it was the same way.
By deschlong
#177082 A couple of thoughts: Is it true that the tie rod is reverse-threaded, so to "crack" the nut on the tie rod, you have to turn it righty-loosey? Or, maybe this is just due to the angle that you are working?

Also, did you use OEM Honda parts? I've read that non-OEM ball joints aren't really dependable ... wondering what your thoughts on this are.
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By teal_dx
#177096
deschlong wrote:Is it true that the tie rod is reverse-threaded, so to "crack" the nut on the tie rod, you have to turn it righty-loosey? Or, maybe this is just due to the angle that you are working?

That is correct. standing next to the side of the car, looking at the nut, you would turn it clockwise to loosen it.

deschlong wrote:Also, did you use OEM Honda parts? I've read that non-OEM ball joints aren't really dependable ... wondering what your thoughts on this are.



These are not OEM parts that I used. OEM is always better, but for this car non-oem fits the budget.
I actually put a non-oem upper control arm/ball joint on my hatch 6+ years ago and it has held up great. So I guess results can vary.
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By Greasedmonkey
#177098 my parts were non OEM as aswell. As soon as I can though I will replace them. Dont like the ones I used. Just needed them now..
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By J'95
#177108 This would help help me as soon as the weather gets better here, just what i need, there's play in my wheel when i lower my car last week.
thanks for the nice write up dude!
By dawg316
#177244 great write up teal, deffinatly good to know what to do if i ever have to replace my tierods