- Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:55 pm
#251374
One of those things that are really simple but can be made complicated.
I didnt see a diy on this, only installing a new one without replacing the old.
The MAP sensor engine code is 3 (Three short flashes followed by a pause before repeating). If you dont know how to check your engine codes its a little connecter right next to your ecu (i think its usually yellow) that you just jump. Then you turn your key to the on position to see what codes come up.
Long flash= addition in 10's
Short flash= addition in singles
There are a few sensors on the intake manifold that are held on with screws rather than with bolts. These screws strip very easily and are often impossible to get out with a screwdriver after 16+ years of corrosion. There is one thing you should try before resorting to things like drilling which I can almost guarantee will work.
Step one-pull the plug on your map sensor
Step two-break the damn thing
No, seriously. Your replacing it anyway. Get a flathead screwdriver and ply on the underside of the map sensor. There is room to do so under the corners of the sensor(red).
It will brake relatively easy, leaving only the bottom plate and the two screws.
Step three-Place vice grips or pliers on the now exposed screw and loosen them out. You can now lift the remaining bit of old map sensor without difficulty.
Step four-pull out the old o-ring and replace it with the new one that comes in the box with your new map sensor. I was able to pull it out with my finger, but the flathead would work too, just dont wedge it in there too hard and damage the aluminum.
Step five-head to the hardware store and find replacement screws.
Step six-install your new map sensor and reconnect the plug.
Step seven-pull your positive battery cable for just a second and then reconect it, this will reset your ecu.
Your done, start your car and make sure your engine light has gone off (assuming its the only code you have). Your engine may rev extra high for a few seconds while your computer figures out whats going on. Then it should go to normal warm up idle or regular idle, (if your car is already warmed up). Initially my engine reved to almost 3k before droping slowly to a warm up idle speed.
This will keep you from having to drill the screws out as i almost did before i decided to try it this way. Im really glad i did.
I didnt see a diy on this, only installing a new one without replacing the old.
The MAP sensor engine code is 3 (Three short flashes followed by a pause before repeating). If you dont know how to check your engine codes its a little connecter right next to your ecu (i think its usually yellow) that you just jump. Then you turn your key to the on position to see what codes come up.
Long flash= addition in 10's
Short flash= addition in singles
There are a few sensors on the intake manifold that are held on with screws rather than with bolts. These screws strip very easily and are often impossible to get out with a screwdriver after 16+ years of corrosion. There is one thing you should try before resorting to things like drilling which I can almost guarantee will work.
Step one-pull the plug on your map sensor
Step two-break the damn thing
No, seriously. Your replacing it anyway. Get a flathead screwdriver and ply on the underside of the map sensor. There is room to do so under the corners of the sensor(red).
It will brake relatively easy, leaving only the bottom plate and the two screws.
Step three-Place vice grips or pliers on the now exposed screw and loosen them out. You can now lift the remaining bit of old map sensor without difficulty.
Step four-pull out the old o-ring and replace it with the new one that comes in the box with your new map sensor. I was able to pull it out with my finger, but the flathead would work too, just dont wedge it in there too hard and damage the aluminum.
Step five-head to the hardware store and find replacement screws.
Step six-install your new map sensor and reconnect the plug.
Step seven-pull your positive battery cable for just a second and then reconect it, this will reset your ecu.
Your done, start your car and make sure your engine light has gone off (assuming its the only code you have). Your engine may rev extra high for a few seconds while your computer figures out whats going on. Then it should go to normal warm up idle or regular idle, (if your car is already warmed up). Initially my engine reved to almost 3k before droping slowly to a warm up idle speed.
This will keep you from having to drill the screws out as i almost did before i decided to try it this way. Im really glad i did.
Last edited by ghskid06 on Tue Apr 26, 2011 3:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
94 blue lx sedan (sold)
95 black ex sedan (wrecked)
93 white z6 del sol (Sold)
95 red y8 hatch (sold)
98 red coupe
95 black ex sedan (wrecked)
93 white z6 del sol (Sold)
95 red y8 hatch (sold)
98 red coupe