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civic starts and runs then shuts off, now rpm gauge is crazy

PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:05 pm
by eg-guy
Ok after driving 60-70miles yesterday my car shutoff and wouldnt start for 10minutes then i drive about a mile and it shutoff again and didnt start for about 30 mins, and it keeps doing the same thing. Any ideas? what could be the culprit. Ignition system, fuel, bad connections? mabee a honda problem i had a 87 integra that did the same thing. help

also while driving the rpms go to 0 before i come to a complete stop.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:37 pm
by eg-guy
now it wont start at all

PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:26 am
by teal_dx
I am guessing ignition since your tach is reading 0 rpm and then your car is dying. My first guess is ignition coil (inside distributor) when they go bad, the engine dies, then after a while of sitting, it will run for a while.... then same thing again.

Do you know anyone with a civic who will let you borrow their distributor for an hour? be cure to mark the position of the distributor on the head before removing so the timing will be exact when you put the dizzy back on.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 4:54 pm
by eg-guy
how can i tell if the coil is bad, i dont know anyone around here with a civic. Also the door chime was cutting in and out, and the battery is only 1 month old.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 6:51 pm
by EJ1ITR
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I dont understand what you mean about the door chime.

Also, I happen to have an almost brand new ignition coil laying around.....

PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:03 pm
by teal_dx
are your battery terminal clamps loose or corroded?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 3:54 pm
by eg-guy
No brand new battery and terminals its almost dead now, im going to the junkyard to pick up a used distributer and see what happens.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 5:39 pm
by teal_dx
The solder contacts on the main relay is common to go bad on these cars, it's a small module under the dash. It will prevent the car from starting (no fuel pump prime) when hot, but I don't know if this could cause the engine to die while driving. I only heard of people not being able to get their car started for a while when the main relay goes bad. You can actually take it apart and re-solder the old cracked solders and it should be as good as new. Otherwise it's about $46 from the dealership.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:01 pm
by eg-guy
Wow $46 for a relay my old hatch had the relay prob but it always started just took a few extra seconds, thats not the problem tho it was the icm and i think the coil is going bad 2 cause it feels hesitant to idle or drive, but its running now so im happy.


EJ1ITR how many miles on that coil i have a new one but deals are to good to pass up, how much 4 it?

TEAL use a legend.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:34 am
by EJ1ITR
Im not sure how many miles. If I remember right, I used it for about a month before my d16 bit the dust. I still had the receipt for it when I pulled the motor out.

How does $15 sound?

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:54 pm
by eg-guy
sounds good, but will that d16 coil work with a d15?

PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:57 pm
by eg-guy
while driving i noticed my rpms jumping up in 1k .5k intervals. It also sounds like its missing a little bit but by the exhaust sound. I need that coil asap.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:37 am
by EJ1ITR
Sorry for the late reply. I missed the email telling me that you replied. That and the fact that Ive been pretty busy lately.

Yea I believe the d16 and d15 coils are the same. Ill double check to make sure.

If you still want the coil PM me and let me know, and we can set everything up.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:43 am
by EJ1ITR
They are the same unless I am very much mistaken.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 1:52 pm
by teal_dx
Yes they are the same, I took a D15b7 coil and put it in a D16z6 distributor. :thumb: