Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:57 am #324541 it is awd and turbo, however, the bell housing and transmission placement make it near impossible to place it in another chasis

like I said above "near impossible"

ive seeng 4g63 swaps installed and sr20 swaps installed in our little eg civics, even the 4g63 awd platforms

but the amount of weight attributed to the install would be ridiculous and your better off installing the proper rim/tire size and weight to compensate for traction

there are also other cons of this swap like the transmission is triptonic, not a simple auto trans. lots and lots of wiring ahead in your future if you do something this awesome.

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:18 pm #324550 Ive always wondered about that swap and now i know... what other trans would be swapable to that motor???

i pitty the foo who aint got vtec......
EM1 build http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=17256

- Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:28 pm #324571 The position the engine sits in the rdx you would need some custom mounts that are not on the market yet, making this swap workable would cost more than purchasing a type r swap, sleevig that k, adding a turbo, forged internals and kpro plus all the other crap needed to turbo lol.

It's a good idea but super expensive, and not able to fit in a eg, dc, ef chasis perhaps a ek cause of the huge core support area?? Not sure

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Mon Jan 21, 2013 6:32 pm #324572 If you could find a local junk yard with a rdx with engine pulled and trans pulled with it you could see the mount positions and go from there.

Also you have a 50/50 chance of this working.... Buy a wrecked rdx and start pulling parts while meticulously labeling the shit
Then install it into ya eg, dc, ek what evs

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

[Apexracing]

- Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:17 am #324609 so you paid 4k for just the motor or did you get the trans too?

- Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:32 am #324615 whole k20a type r swap. even the shift cables came with it too.

I know the guys at jdmenginedepot pretty well, got a sweet deal on it. could not refuse since they were selling for 6k at the time 4 years ago.

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

[Apexracing]

- Tue Jan 22, 2013 2:06 pm #324639

whole k20a type r swap. even the shift cables came with it too.

I know the guys at jdmenginedepot pretty well, got a sweet deal on it. could not refuse since they were selling for 6k at the time 4 years ago.

Now thats better people on ebay are trying to get that much for the motor. Fuck that lol.

- Wed Apr 24, 2013 4:26 am #330931 i know its rediculous but heck im superstitious, i believe in damn good engineering, like i said im not doing drag racing, i just want a shit load of power in my k20a and keep it that way, all type r, well the block and head now... lol

i thought i had installed 12.5:1 compression pistons, but i realized it was in a k24a4 build i did for a guy the same time i was doing mine, i found my receipts from my build..

heres the list

weisco 12.1:1 compression pistons .20 over bore with rings and snap ring wrist pins not the snap in place rings that ruin cylinder walls
eagle h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts
acl gold race bearings main and rod
brian crower stage 2 cam shafts
brian crower dual valve springs for stage 2 camshafts
brian crower titanium retainers
rbc intake manfiold ported to 70mm for sk2 throttle body
lightly decked head
oem head gasket, cometic and hks suck balls in my opinion

i got a dyno tune done and came up with 255hp all motor cant read what the paper says for torque but hell 255hp all motor is bawm!

the trick is oil flow, i learned this years ago... when trying to rev up my ls vtecs and make power reliably while lasting longer than 30k miles ha!

making sure your machinest knows you is the most important thing in building any honda engine.

my oil galleys are slightly ported the best we could do...

i smooth out the heads so there isnt any type of oil catching on sharp edges, smooth flow in smooth flow back into the oil pan..

im going to be building my own oil sump system for maximum oil pressure and flow all the time, i ride my engine in the 4-6k rpm range all the time i love having instant power and throttle response.

call me crazy but i get results

aslo, plastiguaguing is the smartest thing you can do, even though i have my mahcinest make them all the same size i still have to make sure everything is the right size , again oil flow to the bearings and no binding in the rods or crank

the other thing is to clay your engine when you get cams, as well as adjusting the compression with low compression pistions you dont really need to do this step as the piston wont touch the valves anyway

making sure your cams are synced together is the best thing you can ever do, a tuner can adjust it only so much, why not have them set already in the best spots.. minimal overlapping, with bigger camshafts

they are not acually bigger in terms of size, but length... let me explain

the lobs are longer

duration? what does this mean? duration is time, lenght measurement of distance and time

a camshaft with bigger duration numbers over your stock cams means the valve is left open just a little bit longer, we cant measure this with seconds in time because it is too quick, instead we measure in lenght, if your stock cam is doing .300" duration and your aftermarket cam is doing .315" duration your valve is going to be open by .015" longer

this is why its important to clay your engine to make sure the camshafts you have and the valves you have do not hit and your piston position is eccentricly aligned, aka "THE SWEET SPOT"

hopefully i havent lost any of you reading this

instead of arguing with me just ask me a question and we can go back and forth this way

this is educational posting

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Wed Aug 14, 2013 2:34 am #335451 Got some q's..

First i bougt an Accord with the "crappy" k24a4 you talk about for dirt cheap, and as always you get what you pay for.


Seller claims it runs and all ok but when i tryed (few weks later),nothing .found out why.



So... Can i put a ecu from k20 crv and imobiliser and that stuff just to crank it an see if it runs or not ?
Can i use the ecu from the k20 crv and hondata unit to run it later or do i need the k24 ecu for that

Im not aming for no hp mostly the swap build, but nobody seems to like the a4 for some reson so is this totaly pointless and waste of time or???

P.s i can sell the car to a local junker so there are no bucks lost for now

- Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:09 pm #335478

Got some q's..

First i bougt an Accord with the "crappy" k24a4 you talk about for dirt cheap, and as always you get what you pay for.

Seller claims it runs and all ok but when i tryed (few weks later),nothing .found out why.



So... Can i put a ecu from k20 crv and imobiliser and that stuff just to crank it an see if it runs or not ?
Can i use the ecu from the k20 crv and hondata unit to run it later or do i need the k24 ecu for that

Im not aming for no hp mostly the swap build, but nobody seems to like the a4 for some reson so is this totaly pointless and waste of time or???

P.s i can sell the car to a local junker so there are no bucks lost for now

the crv is a 2.4 not a 2.0, it depends is the crv the ecu from drive by wire like the accord you got? if not swap out the throttle bodys and crank her up, you will get a cel code for some things but as long as it starts up don't worry too much until you get a kpro or the oem ecu for the engine.

the k24a1 and k24a4 are good engines don't get me wrong, its the "LS" version of the k world, watered down bla bla bla

the thing I don't like about them is for 500-1000 more you can usually get a k24a2 or k20a2, the conversion process is not cheap, and you are still stuck with inferior pistons at the end of the day

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:02 pm #335481 most of our crv are 2.0 and this one is (im in europe)

- Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:47 pm #335485

most of our crv are 2.0 and this one is (im in europe)

really? I am unaware of what is in Europe, sorry lol

at any rate you will have a hard time starting a 2.4 with a 2.0 ecu, doesn't put enough fuel in the engine when cranking / running anyway

expect it to run funny if you use the 2.0 ecu

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:24 pm #335641 i need to get my own fact's rigth.. it has a k24A3 not 4

- Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:41 pm #335751

i need to get my own fact's rigth.. it has a k24A3 not 4

the compression of that engine is 10.5:1, makes 185hp with 160ftlbs of torque @ 4500rpm, not bad actually,

the k24a3 is better than the k24a4 and k24a1 in my opinion, it should have an oil cooler were the filter is, also, it has oil squirters in the block!

perfect candidate for a k24a3/k20a conversion, try finding a k24a2 head out of a tsx or a k20a out of an rsx type s / type r

the k24a3 has watered down vtec, but for driving around it will be quicker than a b16 or b18c by far, plus k swaps look so sexy

as a whole, not a bad buy!

I feel like Europe received the short stick from Honda of Japan over here in the US we have access to unlimited heads, blocks, and parts to mix and match with


I say, keep the k24a3, down the road source a true vtec head, and kpro, put them together and have a beast!

let me know when you are ready to do the conversion ill help you along the way, I will make sure i have access to my laptop at work and guide you through the process.

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:27 pm #335764 "doble post"

Last edited by Gunni on Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.