H22A
User avatar
By teal_dx
#1055 - Driver side: 90-93 Integra Axle w/ Prelude inner CV. Reason being you need a female CV rather than the male CV that will come with a stock 90-93 Integra Axle. or Custom 92 Prelude Inner CV joint with 90-93 shaft & Outer CV joint from Raxles for $170 1-800-257-8192. or - 1990 Manual Accord Intermediate Shaft

- Passenger Side: 90-93 Integra Axle w/ Prelude inner CV. This time, its not about male/female. Its about the length. The Integra CV doesn't extend long enough to allow the snapring to click into the differential, meaning your axle will be loose, causing major fluid loss. The Prelude CV is roughly 1/8" longer allowing it to snap into the transmission.

- other axle options:
Driveshaftshop.com Stage/Level 1 axles Right & Left side using prelude intermediate shaft
HASport custom axles

Image

- If your axles bind on the passenger side, you can take the 92-96 Prelude inner joint and put it onto the 90-91 Integra axle. The overall length will still be the same but the way the Prelude cup is designed, it allows for the axle to move in & out from the transmission with more play than the 90-91 Integra joint, thus giving your axle more room for play and not causing it to bind.

- If your axles bind on the driver side, and if you're using the 90-93 Accord intermediate shaft, you can use the 88-89 Integra axle since it's an inch shorter and use that with the Accord intermediate shaft. Haven't run into axles binding on the driver side when using the Prelude intermediate shaft & 88-89 Integra axle w/Prelude inner joint.

- If your car is really low, that'll cause your axles to bind more so raising your car up a little bit will help. With a stock height car, there are no axles binding. Also, a lot of "JDM H22" swaps that come over aren't always from the JDM Preludes. The Accord SiRs over there had H22 swaps in there and their intermediate shafts and rear trany brackets are different so you would need to use the 92-96 Prelude parts or a 90-93 Accord 5-spd intermediate shaft.

- tranny: buy an H2B plate and run a GSR tranny or you will have to drill a hole.
Image
Image

you will also have to cut the transmission mount. With the HASport, you will have to cut it off totally. With the HCP, you will only have to cut about 1" x 1" off it.

- when using the HCP EG/EK-22 kits, use the 92-96 rear tranny brackets (either US or JDM will work).

- AEM makes a Hybrid Air Induction system for swapped motors. There is a CAI for the 'H' series in the EG.

- 92-96 Prelude intake works but you might have to trim a lil off (about 3 inches from the bottom of the intake)

- remove your A/C and Power Steering

- Wiring in the knock sensor. Wiring in the resistor box for the injectors.

- Take off and mark every single harness connector on where it came from/where it goes from both H22A and stock civic engine. Make sure you label them of where pulled the plug from! This will save a TON of time!

Mount Civic harness on H22A and measure/modify wire to be lengthened/changed as follows:

- Change fuel injector connectors to H22A type and add resistor pack from H22A harness to Civic harness (see diagram below)

- Extend Alternator wires to reach the H22A alternator (match the pinouts on the plug)

- Lengthen wire that goes to the starter solenoid on starter

- Attach reverse light sensor wire to the new H22A reverse light sensor wire

- O2 sensor -add 3 wires to O2 sensor and follow o2 wires and change to Prelude O2 sensor connector. And wire the following:

This only applies to those who have a CX model Civic, or if you use a VX engine harness in a VX! If you have a 92-95 EX/Si/DX, this is NOT required. All OBD2 Civics also do not require this

WHT - WHT/RED wire goes to D14 which is O2 Sensor Input
BLK - ORG/BLK wire goes to A6, which is Heater Control
GRN - GRN/WHT wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
BLK - YEL/BLK wire goes to A25 which is Sensor voltage (you can also splice into the power junction harness at the driver side shock tower harness)

If you have a VX model Civic, if you USE a different engine harness than the factory VX harness (such as an EX/Si, or DX engine harness), you need to perform the VX O2 sensor fix.

You can do this by simply removing the ORG/BLU wire pin from the 4th VX plug:

Image
and moving it to the missing pin mating up with the WHT wire.

VTEC wiring: This applies to DX,LX,CX models only in 93-95! If you have any 92 model Civic, or any 92-95 EX/Si, you do NOT need to do this

There will be two available slots at the shock tower harness. You just need to simply salvage a male and female pin from an unused plug, and add the pins to the connector for the factory look.

- Add one wire from the VTEC Solenoid (grn/wht wire) to the A4 pinout at the ECU. Add the pin to the shock tower harness, and female pin at the female shock tower connector.

- Add one wire from the VTEC Oil pressure sensor (blk/blu wire) to the D6 pinout, and the other wire which is VTEC oil pressure ground. Simply splice (while soldering!) this to the a ground on the engine harness or chassis.

Knock sensor wiring: (mounted at the rear of the engine near the cylinder head) Do the same for the male/female pins at the shock tower harness. There will be one available slot for this. Wire this from the KS to the D3 pinout (for OBD1)

Air Intake Bypass solenoid (secondary butterflies)

- Sensor voltage to the A25 pinout (or splice into the Yel/Blk wire connector at the driver shock tower harness.
- ECU Signal leading to A17 pinout on ECU

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) System: Applies to all model civics except VX using the VX engine harness. If you do not use the VX engine harness in a VX, then you need to do this!

- EGR lift valve solenoid - sensor voltage (A25 pinout) & ECU signal to A11
- EGR lift sensor - sensor voltage (D20 or D19 pinout), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12

Note: EGR is only to be wired up if you also use a P13 ECU. If you use a P28, P72, etc, then the ECU does not look for the EGR and therefore the sensor will be useless. So don't waste your time if you use another ECU.

FUEL INJECTOR WIRING: If you use the factory PEAK AND HOLD injectors, you WILL need a resistor box for your application.
You should have four black wires, and one red wire (or four of the same color and one different color):
Image

Now time to MOUNT the engine harness on the motor! I recommend mounting the engine harness with the engine out of the car. It's much easier to route and work around. Do as follows to check and make sure everything is connected:

- Injectors first
- IACV (idle air control valve)
- Alternator
- IAB (secondary butter flies)
- IAT (intake air temp) sensor
- Oil pressure sensor (rear of the motor)
- Knock sensor
- TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
- MAP sensor
- Distributor
- ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor
- Water temp sending unit
- VTEC Oil Pressure sensor
- VTEC solenoid
- Radiator fan switch (thermostat housing)
- Engine harness ground (10mm bolt on thermostat housing)
- ESS (electronic speed sensor)
- Reverse light sensor

When you throw the motor in, finally, make sure the engine ground from the frame rail is grounded to the motor!

MOUNT KITS AVAILABLE:

- HASport mount kit
- Place Racing Mounts
- HCP Mount kits

MAINTENANCE PRE-CAUTIONS

- Timing Belt for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $39.99 from AutoZone
- Water Pump for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $34.99 w/lifetime warranty from AutoZone
- NGK Spark Plugs for USDM 92-96 Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - approx. $15 from Honda. They usually use NGK Platinums, though which are $15 a PIECE!
- Throttle Body gasket for Prelude VTEC (Honda dealership) $7
- Extended Fuel filter hose (from fuel filter to fuel rail) - You can use an extended fuel line and use hose connectors/clamps, which can be bought at AutoZone or Pepboys stores

Radiator options:
- FAL import racing fan for 92-00 Civic for $169.95 from Summit Racing 1-800-962-9094 with 1994-97 Del Sol VTEC Radiator or Integra Radiator
- C&R Import Racing aluminum radiator with SPAL fan for DOHC motors - $439.95 (317) 293-4100
-1992 Integra LS Upper Radiator Hose, 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose

a slim fan (such as FAL) on factory single core radiators is ok for daily driving, but may overheat for racing use.

EGR Wiring Info

USDM wire colors are the same as JDM.

Connector colors means that when looking at the connector (wire pointing towards you) that the way they should line up (From left to right)

OBD1

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL and RED

Sensor Voltage - BLK/YEL - goes to A25
ECU trigger - RED - goes to A11.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/WHT, and RED/WHT

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D12
Sensor ground - GRN/WHT - goes to D22
Sensor voltage - RED/WHT - goes to D19 or D20

OBD2

EGR lift valve solenoid
(The connector colors, From left to right) BLK/YEL (ORG harness side) and RED (BLK/YEL harness side)

ECU trigger - BLK/YEL - goes to A7
Sensor Voltage - RED - goes to Key switched power.

EGR Lift Sensor (the actual EGR on the intake manifold)
(The connector colors, From left to right) WHT/BLK, GRN/BLK, and YEL/BLU

ECU trigger - WHT/BLK - goes to D9
Sensor ground - GRN/BLK - goes to D11
Sensor voltage - YEL/BLU - goes to D10

OBD1 vacuum diagram:
Image

- The JDM H22 actually comes with a header, while the USDM has an exhaust manifold.

This info was pieced together from different sources, mostly honda-tech. Feel free to add anything I forgot!
Last edited by teal_dx on Wed Dec 20, 2006 8:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By teal_dx
#1061 Motor Mounts: your stock or B-series mounts will not work. You have two choices: 1) Hasport or 2) HCP. The difference in the mounts are little. Hasports cost the is higher than the HCP. The HASport motor mounts were designed for better axles angles, so you have less broken axles. Now, HCP designed there kit more towards the stock prelude mounting position. I mostly use HCP because of the price and seen no real benefits for the HASport besides (in the HCP) if you do not grind enough off the transmission mount, it will grind 5th and reverse. Now, I know you are saying "what about other mounts that I have seen like Place racing, totem, etc?". With place racing, I have seen nothing but problems with axles binding and just poor R&D. With totem, The link will show you all: http://www.jdmshit.com/Totem/ . Totem copied the HCP design and did a shitty job at it. With ALL mounts you will have to use a 92-96 H-series prelude rear transmission bracket.
User avatar
By -EJ1- COUPE
#1095 i have hasports. i didnt do any wiring i had a local shop do it but that is damn good info. i got a fluidyne radiator and fal fan nothing else would fit in the bay. no matter what the axle angles arent that great but thats the chance you take with an H series.
User avatar
By Dirtonaboi
#243420 Teal, you are the man! I'm in the process of doing this swap right now!
User avatar
By Radiomakers
#300691 Cant see the pictures.. Can you upload again?
User avatar
By york62
#314980 Very informative teal! :D Gets me thinking...
User avatar
By BrownWolph
#317536 BUMP for pics!

And will this be easy for a mechanic? I'm taking my Civica to a local shop.
User avatar
By BrownWolph
#317576 I'm looking to put in a H22A OBD 1 DOHC VTEC Engine & Automatic Transmission 92-95 and this info is great!

Thank you!
By wolfman93
#329373 Does this work for f20b swap?
User avatar
By mooze
#329484 yes
By wolfman93
#329511 Ok thanks
By ManGo
#331965 Thnx for info !!!
Very usefull.