H22A
By firsteg
#336244 okay so this whole build started when i found a h22 head on craiglis for 80$ this is all from what i posted up on d-series.org first but figured you guys would enjoy it. i have been told this is an awesome forum.

i was still in school at the time but i emailed the guy and surprisingly it was still for sale by the time i got home for Christmas break.

this is what it looked like

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pretty good shape

next i got my intake manifold and started playing around wiht that

ported throttle body

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port matched iab plates

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before solvent tanking everything

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By firsteg
#336245 then i started on the block

it took a solid 6 hours at pickapart to get the darn thing out. accords come cramped with all sorts of accessories that get in the way

i walked out with a short block and transmission including the shift cables and shifter box for 150 before taxes !!

the engine on the stand
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i quick trial of how things would sit

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first glimps of the bottom end

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of course first thing i did was take the balance shafts out

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girdle off

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the awesome f23 girdle Image[/QUOTE]
By firsteg
#336246 a look at the old bearings

i could see copper through a couple
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and then the machining started :)



swapping over the h22 water pump gear onto the f23 housing

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the oil pump with the plugs i machined for the b/s

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and a couple things in place

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the big plugs arent all you need to do there are a bunch of hollow dowles that i changed for solid and you have to drill and tap various other holes in the oil pump and one in the block

there are also to drain holes that get pluged in the head (pictures later)


then i started working on the head new valve job as described above

starting to disassemble the head. i had to make a new tool to work with my valve spring compressor

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By firsteg
#336247 a look at the old bearings

i could see copper through a couple
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and then the machining started :)



swapping over the h22 water pump gear onto the f23 housing

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the oil pump with the plugs i machined for the b/s

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and a couple things in place

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the big plugs arent all you need to do there are a bunch of hollow dowles that i changed for solid and you have to drill and tap various other holes in the oil pump and one in the block

there are also to drain holes that get pluged in the head (pictures later)


then i started working on the head new valve job as described above

starting to disassemble the head. i had to make a new tool to work with my valve spring compressor

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By firsteg
#336248 i took everything to heads unlimited

head to be milled flat and washed

wash the block

they got it back to me within 5 hours and i think the total was 70$ ( with a bit of a friend deal)

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i started assembly with putting new valve seal in it

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and i wrapped it all up to wait for the block to be assembled[/QUOTE]
By firsteg
#336249 Image

bearings in place on the block

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plastigauge was all in spec between .0015 and .002 for the mains

for the rods they where all basically at .002 or slightly under

getting the pistons in

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i did check ring gap and it was all in spec

everything buttoned up

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and the head on the block

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and all intime
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next i started work on wiring and making axles

the snout length difference between the b series axle and the f series

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installing a 255 lph pump from xenocron

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By firsteg
#336250 and this is one of the huge PITA things i did but overall it did work out very well

while hanging out with my friend who recently did a vr6 swap into a mk2 golf i noticed the nice big circular connector with about 10 ish more connections than the 3 plugs put together on the passenger side of the engine bay.

this worked out perfect because it had a couple really nice big connectors that i used for my fuel pump and it gave me the extra spots i needed to run the vetc solinoid and iab along with a couple other goodies.

while doing all this i did a bit of a wire tuck aswell integrated a resistor box into the harness and deleted as many plugs as possible.

the only issue i had when doing this was there are 3 or 4 plaine white wires that go through the plugs on passenger side, you have to be very careful not to mix up the cps and the map signal wires :P

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relay for the fuel pump to run straight from the batery/ alternator to the pump

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the engine all wrapped up ready to go

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no picture of removing the engine but it was very painless

the f series transmission in there

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By firsteg
#336251 and the engine is in !

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it took a while to figure out the mounts it is still sitting a little strange but doing all right

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clearence to the rad

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the new spec stage 3 kevlar clutch and fidanza akuminum flywheel

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peaking through

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and i didn't even have to bleed my cltch! using the stock d series slave gave me a little more fan clearance but i still needed to get creative

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the h/f series transmission have a different bolt spacing so all that was needed was ovalling one whole.[/QUOTE]
By firsteg
#336252 for a fan i found out that a prelude secondary fan ( driverside ) is a fair bit thinnre than the oem one. now i havn't done an ready to see how these compair but i gave it good test with my hand and the slimer one seemed to put out the same force of air over a larger area if that makes sense( read skinnier and flows more ).

and this is pretty much the finished product

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she started up and ran as soon as i got my little wire mishap figured out.
By firsteg
#336253 Image

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and thats about it for a little while school is starting up for me. but here will be a couple kool updates on the weekend
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By rootbeer_eg
#336268 looks good trevor :woot: :woot:
that motor sure was a pain to take out
By firsteg
#336279 Thanks Aaron! I was wondering if you would see this. That motor was a royal pain. Thanks again for the help that day
User avatar
By foxgearshift
#337012 there is nothing like working on your own car :thumb:

what bearings did you use ? am planing to do an N/A H22 nothing big more like type s pistons and pro1 cams on jdm black top so i was wondering of getting OEM or ACL not desided yet
By firsteg
#338014 thanks guys!

i kinda forgot about my post on here. i am going to have to look around at a few other members builds. i remeber seeing a couple really interesting ones.

since i made my last post i did get the turbo on and tuned, although the stock wastegte actuator i used is set to like 4 psi :( so i made the diy mbc and have it to around 8 max but it moves around alot more than i like.

to solve this i started looking into ebc and how to make them with a arduino. so i will have updates on this in a while.

also i found a tdo5hr-16g-9.8 (twinscroll) for cheap so i picked that up, but it'll probably just sit in my room till the summer when i can do a new manifold and downpipe.




foxgearshift wrote:there is nothing like working on your own car :thumb:

what bearings did you use ? am planing to do an N/A H22 nothing big more like type s pistons and pro1 cams on jdm black top so i was wondering of getting OEM or ACL not desided yet



i used acl race bearings.
OEM are quite a bit more expensive but you can get tighter and more uniform clearances. Although im not even sure if you can buy them any more.

the acl will most likely come out right in factory spec.